STYLE

Back to basics: Understated chic, bold hues colour Day 4 of Fashion Week

03/15/2012 10:49 EDT | Updated 05/15/2012 05:12 EDT
TORONTO - From collared trims to textured coats and capes, fur loomed large on the runway at Toronto's World MasterCard Fashion Week on Thursday. But by and large, the eclectic mix of both laidback and luxe looks featured on Day 4 generally kept excessive embellishments at bay with a nod to more refined, understated chic.

David Dixon: David Dixon channelled inspiration from the 60s horror classic "The Birds" into an effortlessly elegant collection of womenswear.

The homegrown designer put a contemporary spin on his sleek creations reminiscent of the clean lines and rich textures featured in the Alfred Hitchcock thriller. In his liner notes, Dixon said the collection was paying homage to "The Birds" star Tippi Hedren and legendary costume designer Edith Head who designed Hedren's iconic mint green suit worn in the film.

Outerwear offerings ranged from lush ivory capes to delicate, feathered jackets, but the collection was dominated with its vast range of feminine separates: pretty peplum and sheer chiffon dresses, slick leather skirts, ruched bodices and glimmering houndstooth-print pants. Dixon was bold in his pairing of complimentary yet contrasting textures, such as dark lace trims on coats.

The presentation featured its share of showstopping dresses with fitted bodices accented with rippling chiffon petals, wisps of feathers and fluttering paillettes cascading along skirts and adorning hemlines.

Pink Tartan: From crisp coats to feminine frocks, the fall-winter range from Pink Tartan kept in line with elegant offerings that have defined past collections from the womenswear label.

Designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran delivered a strong mix of suiting and separates which oozed sophistication. There were tailored jackets and cigarette-slim pants, as well as bold infusions of rich reds alongside kelly and emerald greens seen in form-fitting peplum tops, skirts and flirty dresses.

The collection featured its share of fur accents, from full-scale textured trenches and shaggy mohair-style coats to the luxe fur-trimmed jackets and shearling bombers draped elegantly on the models.

Flared-hem dresses featured subtle striping and bold hound0stooth patterns, while there was a playfulness with dot-patterned cardigans and richly textured feathered skirts.

Ezra Constantine: Ezra Constantine made its Toronto Fashion Week debut with a decidedly minimalist approach to menswear.

Toronto-based design duo Stephen Wong and Kirk Pickersgill have been dubbed "jersey boys" for their embrace of the fluid, draped fabric in their popular womenswear line, Greta Constantine. But knits and wools were the story in the latest creations from their menswear label, which was developed in 2009.

Steeped in a colour palette of cream, grey and black, the collection was relatively spare, with its chunky knit sweaters, twist-collar tops and wool pants. But there were both subtle and more overt touches to amp up the looks, such as fluid funnel collars on turtlenecks and oversized copper clothespins fastened on sweaters.

The design duo also opted for the unconventional, such as the splashes of sequins embellishing tanks, shirts and sweaters. There was a futuristic touch with sculptured sleeves on pullovers and shimmering silver metallic V-necks and pants.

Rudsak: While leather is central to the brand DNA, fur was the featured player in Rudsak's fall-winter range.

Textured trim adorning garments is hardly a new fashion phenomenon. But the leather goods retailer founded by Evik Asatoorian — Rudsak's creative leader — pushed the envelope to new extremes in the label's latest collection with an abundant use of fur accents on outerwear and accessories.

The voluminous tufts of fur in rich neutral hues and jet black were impossible to miss. On slick, slim-fit leather jackets that are the label's signature, no part of the garment was immune from the textured treatment. Fur encircled hoods, dotted collars, embellished sleeves, and even covered mid back and shoulders of the pieces. Puffer jackets in combinational leather were also featured.

Save for the odd touch of fur, handbags were kept relatively spare, with messenger bags, satchels and cross-body purses on display.

Triarchy: Denim company Triarchy infused tried-and-true wardrobe staples with a modern twist — and some flash.

With a pile of jeans positioned at the entry to the catwalk, a trio of models clad in their skivvies ambled down the runway, each selecting and sliding on a slender pair of slim-fit dark wash indigo jeans prior to taking their walk.

High-waisted, cigarette-slim skinny jeans were the dominant style for women. Amid a myriad of true blue hues, neutrals and olive green, vibrant mustard, emerald and rust hues were also in the mix, as well as shimmery silver metallics and coppery bronze.

Bare-chested male models wore both slimmer-fit and more relaxed styles, with medium washes and dark indigo hues as well as the application of a leather wash — a nod to Triarchy's custom motorbike background.

The Vancouver-based label, whose production is based out of Los Angeles, was founded by sibling trio Mark, Adam and Ania Taubenfligel. The label was among the finalists in the Mercedes-Benz Start Up program for emerging designers last fall.

Day 4 also featured presentations from Ashtiani and Caitlin Power.

Fashion Week concludes on Friday.

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