Focusing on the technical elements of old couture rather than a specific narrative, Shane Gabier and Chris Peters sent out bright greens, yellows and pinks in dresses, printed skinny trousers and skirts in jacquards, cottons and polyesters.
A full, pleated dress in green had a large, loose bow below the chest with three-quarter sleeves and a skirt the colour of oatmeal with star bursts of massive Swarovski crystals just above the hem.
The two kept hemlines below the knee and built panels of solid colours into prints in jackets, shirts and dresses.
An ecru cotton canvas blazer included snake print and leather details. The snake print on a whisper-thin polyester was carried into tops and a colossal, show-closing gown. A fitted yellow cotton dress with a twist of fabric from one of its asymmetrical shoulders to the waist was adorned with butterflies.
Gabier, 39, said some "punky" details and the early '60s feel is always on the partners' minds as they cater to a range of customers of all ages — and sizes. Is it unusual for Fashion Week designers to show plus-size friendly clothes? "It might be," Gabier said. "I would say yes."
Peters, 28, called the spring 2013 collection an expression of "monstrous innocence," explaining: "We wanted to push the feminine silhouettes toward these almost hard and aggressive volumes and proportions, but keeping them light and airy."
Rodarte come to mind. "Yeah, we get that a lot," Peters said. "They come from a really emotional place and we have a similar sort of approach to designing."
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