STYLE

Fashion wunderkind Gordon thinks Spring should have some edge - and crystals and feathers

09/10/2012 04:19 EDT | Updated 11/10/2012 05:12 EST
NEW YORK, N.Y. - Spring isn't all sweetness and light, says Wes Gordon. Spring needs some bite. It needs some edge.

That's why Gordon, a wunderkind of New York fashion at only 26, has plenty of black in his Spring 2013 collection, along with more springlike colours of ice blue, ivory and bright red.

Want edge? How about a black feathered tank, embroidered with tulle and encrusted with bits of Swarovski crystal? Or some grey metallic cigarette pants, skintight and also crystal-studded?

Gordon, who only graduated in 2009 from London's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, had a clear sense of theme when asked to define his collection, which he presented Monday on Manhattan's far west side.

"She's a high priestess," he said of the woman he's dressing. "A woman who's powerful, alluring and feminine, but at the same time dark and sinister."

Gordon also likes a certain ghostlike quality — the ghostlike voice of singer Kate Bush hovered on the soundtrack as he spoke — and hence he peppers his collection with lots of transparent garments, as in a sheer black lace blouse, with long sleeves that travel down way past the fingers.

Gordon is also big on corsets — beautifully fitted corset jackets, for example, with laced-up backs evoking the period dress of centuries past. One of them, called a "corset trench," came in ice blue. Another corset jacket came in red crushed satin, paired with a twill seamed skirt of the same colour to make a very sexy suit.

Gordon doesn't shy away from prints, either; his favourite bird seems to be a swan, emblazoned on an ink-colored dress or an orange silk blouse.

As for the crystals, they are new for Gordon. He points out a beige cropped knit crewneck sweater made of yarn that is itself encrusted with crystals. "Isn't that great? It was VERY hard to knit," he allows.

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