At its Paris ready-to-wear show on Friday, the first looks in white were startlingly beautiful.
Angular skirts, geometric coats and square jackets with sections of fabric descending in expanding linear bands, their folded divisions owing to tiny punched lines of holes. The aim of designer Yoshiyuke Miyamae was to recreate "glistening white moonlight," with the style repeated in black to capture starlight.
The results were garments with the stiffness yet softness of paper that reflected one of the strongest Issey Miyake collections in seasons.
Elsewhere, Miyamae let in the sunlight with a series of colorful and floaty knee-length gowns.
They captured the linear feel of a ray of light in vivid geometric bands of colour. But the vivid tones were diffused in a sensitive blend of colour: Pink with coral, mid-purple with blue, or pale blue and turquoise blending with reds and yellows.
Miyamae, who's been at the Issey Miyake design helm for two years, is now clearly finding a softer, more subtle artistic voice.
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