Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs all were presenting on Thursday, as eight days featuring shows by approximately 200 designers came to a close.
Among the highlights:
CALVIN KLEIN EMBRACES CURVES
Classic and sophisticated, the spring collection from Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein moved fluidly in papyrus white sleeveless dresses and read and blue leather on Thursday, the final day of New York Fashion Week.
Save a bit of patchwork and silver metallic embroidery, the clothes were urban chic, either daintily belted or swinging free.
Costa said in a backstage interview after the show that he wanted the female body front and centre.
"Making the body a little more exposed in a way, you know, giving the woman a little more curve, which I love. I've never done a silhouette like that," he said. "So we have fluted skirts, really beautiful engineered knits creating incredible shapes under tanks tops. It was fun to play with that."
In the front row were Sarah Jessica Parker and Rooney Mara, along with industry heavyweights that included Anna Wintour.
RALPH LAUREN TAKES A FASHION SAFARI
If you're the woman who savors a luxurious candlelit dinner while on safari — or maybe just wants to channel a safari while at a dinner party closer to home — Ralph Lauren hears you.
The designer's spring 2015 collection was heavy on khakis, safari jackets and cargo pants, and played with the notion of safari as it moved into evening wear, too.
Lauren described the collection as "about an exotic kind of luxury, the spirit of a romantic safari emboldened by luminous colours played against the heritage of pure khakis in sleek and modern shapes. "
And his final item was the starkest example: a sage green silk taffeta evening dress, which looked like a safari jacket on top, only with a skirt billowing out like an evening gown on the bottom.
Lauren's show, which always comes on the final day of Fashion Week, is one of the highest-profile as well. In the front row Thursday was actress Julianne Moore, a Lauren fan.
"Oh my gosh — what's not to love?" the actress said. "I mean classic, American style. When I first moved to New York City, the Ralph Lauren store on Madison Avenue was the first one I went to, I used to wander around and wish I could afford the things that were there! "
—Jocelyn Noveck and Gina Abdy
SNAKES ON A RUNWAY AT PROENZA SCHOULER
Designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough — the duo known as Proenza Schouler — love contrasts.
Proenza's runway on Wednesday featured their usual inventive uses of fabric and texture, especially in leather and in knitwear, in ultra-modern, sophisticated pieces.
"We're really attracted to leather, especially for spring, so we wanted to perforate the leather and make it almost sheer — like the sheerness of chiffon," said Hernandez in a backstage interview. Some of the most striking designs were in what they called a "leather crochet" — leather, but almost diaphanous.
The duo also used python, in belts and in all kinds of trim, in various colours: blue, black and white, and most strikingly, orange, in a coat. "We always like a bit of animal, a bit of something savage," McCollough said.
The show began with more buttoned-up silhouettes, with long-sleeved dresses buttoned to the neck, roomy coats, and jackets with hoods. As it progressed, the shapes started dissolving. In the end, dresses appeared with long fringes, as if, well, deconstructed.
Hernandez said the duo's creative inspiration this time was "the ideas of classic American sportswear, taking those ideas and filtering them through our vision, so in the end they're a little more abstract, I guess a little more twisted than real classics."
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