Save a bit of patchwork and silver metallic embroidery, the clothes were urban chic, either daintily belted or swinging free.
Costa said in a backstage interview after the show that he wanted the female body front and centre.
"Making the body a little more exposed in a way, you know, giving the woman a little more curve, which I love. I've never done a silhouette like that," he said. "So we have fluted skirts, really beautiful engineered knits creating incredible shapes under tanks tops. It was fun to play with that."
In the front row were Sarah Jessica Parker and Rooney Mara, along with industry heavyweights that included Anna Wintour.
Costa said he wanted to stretch wear of some of the pieces beyond spring, offering long-sleeved leather coats in perforated leather and luxurious sweaters.
He also wanted to play with the idea of clothes as a "second skin," achieved in a black mesh knit shell dress, for instance. Other looks were kicky fun: shiny red and marine blue minidresses belted well above the hips and swinging at the hem.
"It's the idea of the body coming through in a very sophisticated way," Costa said.
AP writer Nicole Evatt contributed to this report.
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