Chris Schryer

Summer Beer Guide: Sour Ales

2013-06-13T17:14:52-04:00

So far we have discussed two summer styles that many people are probably familiar with: wheat beers of both the German and Belgian styles, and fruit beers that can range from simple light lime lagers through to big fruity pale ales. Today we are going to cover a type of beer that is probably unfamiliar to many folks, sour ales, and specifically Belgian-style Saisons and German-style Berliner Weisse.

For many, the thought of a beer being sour at all is a strange one. Beers are generally made of malted grains (sweet) and hops (bitter). So where does the sour come from? Simply put, other types of bacteria/yeast in the fermentation. These can be intentionally introduced like yeast, come from surfaces in brewing equipment that are left un-sanitized (often wooden barrels), or be introduced on grains or fruit added after the boil. No matter how they get there, they can influence the beer, from being slightly drying or tart, through to a beer by a local brewer and friend of mine named "Baby Vomit Supreme" which smelled heavily of sour milk (and no, I couldn't finish it).

In the case of Sasion, it's not even a hard and fast rule that they are sour, though in most modern iterations it is so. Saisons were historically made by Belgian farmers in the cool months when brewing was easier to do and there also was a lack of work for farm hands. They would make enough beer to last through the summer, when it was too hot to brew, and the workers and farmer needed refreshing beer to drink. Historically, the beers would vary in taste from farm to farm, using different malts, hops and additional spices based on what was available.

Most brewers now make their Saisons tart and quite dry, with spices and nice hoppy notes. They are highly refreshing and bright, and are perfect for the hot summer. While there are many notable Belgian varieties still (the epic Saison Dupont being one of the best, and best-known), craft brewers in the USA have adopted this style, and are truly excelling at it. Thankfully, Canadian brewers are producing some excellent versions too. From the USA, look for Goose Island Sofie (Illinois), which has good distribution. Locally, look for Driftwood Farmhand Ale (B.C.), Black Oak Summer Saison (Ontario), the Station Series of Saisons from Hopfenstark (Quebec), or Dulcis Succubus from Le Trou du Diable (Quebec; an "imperial" Saison at 8.4 per cent), as well as a variety of versions from Great Lakes Brewery (Ontario).

Berliner Weisse, also has a somewhat unusual history, in fact, nobody is really sure how Berliner Weisse was developed. There certainly is history of wheat beer being made around Berlin, but how it came to it's characteristic light sourness and low alcohol is, at best, unclear. There are a few theories, but suffice to say, no definitive answer. It also has a fairly unusual (and fascinating!) brewing process that I won't bore you with here, except to point out that at no point is the wort (what beer is before it's fermented) boiled. Boiling, among doing other things, sterilizes the liquid, so that the brewer knows the yeast they add is the only microorganism in the fermentation. Because of this, Berliner Weisse beers have other bacteria that were on the grains and hops. Most Berliner Weisse are also fairly low alcohol, normally around 3 per cent, making them very sessionable.

By the middle of the last century, the style was nearly extinct. With it's fiddly brewing process, and with people's tastes moving towards lagers, there was not much demand for the funny little sour ale from Berlin. With modern craft brewing, the style has enjoyed a resurgence, and while they're still not the easiest beers to chase down, there are a number of regularly produced ones and some seasonally available. The ones I know are Hopfenstark Boson De Higgs (Quebec; they also make others), Dieu du Ciel! Solstice d'Ete (Quebec; often they make batches of this with fruits like figs or raspberries), Nickel Brook Green Light (Ontario) and Bellwoods Muggleweisse (Ontario). In fact, Bellwoods Brewery in Toronto has dedicated a fermenting tank solely to Berliner Weisse this summer, making a variety of different interpretations. I had a smoked rhubarb version last week, and it was divine. If you find yourself in Toronto, do stop by for a glass or three.

Mussels in Saison

Mussels are a great, sustainable, seafood choice. When you get yours, they should be chilled and smell of the sea (not a beach at low-tide).

3 medium shallots, chopped
2 stalks of celery, chopped
1/2 bulb of fennel, chopped
2LBS fresh mussels, de-bearded
2 cups good saison
1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
1 tbsp white pepper corns, crushed
Salt to taste

In a deep skillet (with fitting lid) or shallow pot, sautee the shallots, celery and fennel over medium-high heat, until clear (about 3-4 minutes). Add the mussels and raise heat to high. Pour in saison and spices, and cover. Simmer for 3-4 minutes and check; mussels are done when their shells open. Try not to over-cook. Odds are, not every mussel will open. Serve with fresh crusty bread or frites and mayonnaise. Makes a meal for two or a side/appetizer for four.

Summer Beer Guide: Fruit Beer

2013-06-05T12:25:47-04:00

Continuing along with our exploration of summer beer styles, the next most obvious category after wheat beers (which we explored last week), are fruit beers.

Fruit beers are, well, fruity. Bright and refreshing, they really vary quite a bit, depending both on the fruit used, as well as what the underlying style of beer is. Fruit beers range from light lime-type lagers, where a basic North American Light Lager is the foundation, right through to the famous Lambic Kriek and Framboise beers of Belgium, fermented with wild yeast. And there is plenty of territory in between.

Pale ales with citrus that compliment the bright floral and citrusy hops, wheat beers with raspberries or apricots, stouts or porters with dark juicy berries; I've even had a beer made with gummi bears. And we still haven't mentioned shandys and radlers (which really, are basically the same thing).

Because of this variety of styles, even if you've had one fruit beer you didn't particularly like, it's never a bad idea to try one that is new to you. For many people who "don't like beer", a fruit beer is often an option that they actually enjoy. Because of the bright, generally refreshing fruit flavours, they are great dockside or patio beers.

As I noted, the most common and widely available fruit flavoured beers are the lime lager variety. If that is where you want to start, try to find beers that are made with real fruit juices, and are based on beers you already like. There are plenty of options on the market, no matter what market you are in.

Shandys and Radlers (a German cocktail of pils mixed with a fruit based soda; often grapefruit, lemon or lime), are quite popular in summer. While they're not really a fruit beer (rather, they're a beer cocktail), I'll include them here, as they are beer, and they often are fruity. Again, a base beer that you already know and like is a good starting point, and -- again -- real fruits are also a good thing. Two that I've been happy to drink recently are the excellent Stiegl Radlermass (from Austria) and Rickard's Shandy, which is made with a nicely tart lemon soda. Both have fairly wide distribution nationally, in retail and licensed sales.

Fruit-flavoured wheat beers are probably the most numerous in the craft beer scene. Generally, the brewer opts for a fairly tart fruit to compliment the tart refreshing wheat beer. If this is your cup of tea (or mug of beer), look for Amsterdam Framboise (Ontario; raspberry wheat beer), McAuslan Apricot Wheat (Quebec), Alley Kat Aprikat (Alberta; apricot wheat beer) or Yukon Brewing Deadman Creek (Yukon; a cranberry wheat beer).

While less prominent, pale ales and blonde ales with fruits generally feature a bit more hop presence, and might be your answer if are a person who "doesn't like fruit beers." The only three that immediately pop to mind for me are Pumphouse Blueberry Ale (New Brunswick; blonde ale with blueberries) and Great Lakes Orange Peel Ale (Ontario) or Bellwoods Brewery Omerta Pale Ale (Ontario; North American pale ale with blood oranges). The last two are both classic hoppy pales, where the oranges used are not sweet and juicy, but nicely augment the citrus elements of the hops, with bitter and aromatic orange aromas.

Killer Fruity BBQ "Splash" Sauce

I'm actually trained in French cooking. And one of the joys, when I stopped working in a French bistro, was taking time to learn about (and experiment with) simple, "peasant" cooking from a variety of other cultures. Mexican, Greek and Italian became some of my go-to styles, as they often featured basic flavourful recipes that called for many ingredients that I could grow in my own garden. A summer stand-by was a grilling sauce for fish that was Greek-ish in origin. A really simple recipe of half olive oil, half Greek white wine (remember when you couldn't look left at the LCBO without seeing a Pinot Grigio?) with some chopped up garlic in it. Since becoming more beer-centric, I've adapted the recipe, and often mix it with a nice fruity wheat beer, like McAuslan Apricot Wheat.

200 ml apricot wheat beer
200 ml olive oil ("experienced"; virgin and extra-virgin burn at too low a temperature. Just get plain olive oil)
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 small shallot, chopped

Mix all ingredients in an old wine bottle or swing-top beer bottle. Shake vigorously before each splash, and splash generously over grilling fish on the BBQ. It might flare-up a bit, in which case, mind how generous you are. I love this on grilled cod, where the nice bright beer balances the fairly rich fish. Keep in your refrigerator between meals, and remember to pull it out an hour before you need it, as the olive oil might solidify somewhat.

Summer Beer Guide: Wheat Beer

2013-05-28T07:58:25-04:00

As the weather warms up, every beer blogger and his cousin are compiling lists of their summer beers for 2013. This isn't inherently a bad thing, and often it might lead you to a new beer you had not tried before. It could also leave you crying into your lager, as you don't have access to any of the specific beers on a particular list. So while I'll suggest some specific beers, I want to present to you my list of ultimate summer styles, and why you want to drink them. I'll also include a recipe to accompany the beer.

Today I'm going to cover Wheat Beers. Over the next six weeks, I'll also cover off Fruit Beers, Saisons, Lawn Mower Beers, BBQ Beers, and Campfire Beers.

Wheat Beer

One of the most obvious "summer" styles are wheat beers. These beers are generally bright, slightly tart or sour, quite refreshing, and generally weigh-in at 5 per cent or less. The general division in the style is between the Belgian-style Wit (white) beers and German-style Weisse beers. In the Belgian-style, the beer is unfiltered and cloudy, and in addition to malted barley and wheat, hops, water and yeast, they can also contain un-malted wheat and oats (which give a silky mouthfeel) as well as herbs and spices.

The German-style is made in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot (The Bavarian Purity Law), and therefore can only contained malted grains, hops, yeast and water. It, too, is cloudy and tart. In both cases, special ale yeasts produce spicy notes when they ferment, often giving flavours of clove, allspice, coriander and cinnamon, as well as bananas and bubblegum. Both styles lend themselves well to grilled fish, salads of fresh garden vegetables, and BBQ chicken or pork. You could also have the Bavarian classic sausage, Weissewurst. Made with veal and bacon fat, it is always served with a local wheat beer and pretzel. Oh, and it's generally served as a mid-morning snack. On the rare occasions I get asked what an ideal "breakfast beer" is, it's to the wheat beers -- particularly German weisse -- that I point. They also make tremendous summer time brews.

For Belgian-style whites, Unibroue's Blanche de Chambly is incredible and has wide distribution. A bit more regionally specific, look for Mill St Wit (Ontario), Dieu du Ciel! Blanche de Paradis (Quebec), or Driftwood White Bark Ale (BC).

If you prefer the German-style, Granville Island Robson Street Hefeweizen (BC) has Nation-wide distribution. The mighty Denison's Weisse beer was, for years, the highest-rated German-style Weisse on Ratebeer.com. It's mainly available in Ontario, but is worth seeking out. Also look for Howe Sound King Heffe (BC), Muskoka Summer Weisse (Ontario) and Propellor Hefeweizen (Nova Scotia).

Orange Glazed Pork Chops

Here's a little pro-tip: Marmalade is a BBQ'ers secret weapon. Packing a heap of sweet, bitter and sour flavours, even if you don't like it on your toast, keep a jar of this in your fridge. Used in glazes, BBQ sauces, or right out of the jar, once you start using it, you will wonder why you didn't sooner. In this simple recipe, it's cut with bright citrusy wheat beer to make an excellent glaze for pork chops, though it would be equally well suited to a light white fish fillet.

1/2 cup marmalade (best quality you can find, home made if possible)
1/3 cup wheat beer (I like using a German-style weisse)
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp Louisiana hot sauce (Tobasco, Frank's et al)
4 medium-sized pork chops (bone-in, if you can)

Stir all ingredients other than the pork well to form a syrupy glaze. If you don't like the rinds in the marmalade, feel free to pass the glaze through a strainer to remove them. If the glaze seems too thin, add a bit more marmalade. Over a medium-hot grill, cook the pork to your desired doneness. When the chops are within one minute of being done, brush them generously with the glaze, turning to cook it. Let the chops rest for five minutes, and serve them with fresh local vegetables.

How I Judge the "Best Beer"

2012-12-18T00:19:50-05:00

Westvleteren 12 has been making some news in Canada over the past few days. This ultra-rare Trappist ale (actually made by Trappist monks in a monastery in Vleteren Belgium), is hardly available outside Belgium.

Based on ratings on various beer sites, it is one of the best beers in the world. When the occasional case makes it to Canada, bottles often go for more than $40/330ml at bars. So when the news broke that the abbey would be exporting a large volume to pay for much-needed maintenance to the monastery, beer people went a little crazy.

The gift pack containing six 330ml bottles and two branded glasses costs $76.85 in Ontario. Even still, one of our biggest LCBOs sold it's entire 112 units in four minutes Wednesday morning. There was over 40 people waiting in line when the store opened. Westvleteren 12 is a great beer, world class, no doubt. I've had it a few times, and have always been impressed. It's a beer that every beer lover should try. But I'm not writing about that.

I often get asked, "What's the best beer you've ever had?" This is an interesting question, as it's not "what's your favourite beer?", a much easier question to answer . I also don't hear this question as being "what's the best-made beer you've ever had?" in which case Westvleteren would easily be high on the list. It's not strictly about the brewer's craft.

How does one rate a beer, in terms that then can identify it as "best"? There are numerous judging standards, like the BJCP Guidelines, which are a great start. Ratebeer.com and BeerAdvocate.com are user-rated beer databases, which rely entirely on (ideally) objective quantitative measures. For example is the colour right? What about the aroma? They are generally number-based, and fairly easy to use, if, say, judging a homebrew contest.

But to me, this is missing a huge part of what beer is. It is not simply a fermented beverage that provides you with some nutritional value and also intoxicates you. Beer is a social and cultural experience. It can be political. It can be an emotional response. Drinking a beer often includes other people. None of these things really equate in the numbers game. "I rate this bottle of Chimay Blue 6/8 in culture. I really feel like I'm participating in history." See what I mean?

I have had technically exceptional beers in the wrong setting, and while I was able to appreciate the excellence of the beer, the overall experience wasn't outstanding. I have also had mediocre beers in excellent settings that are among my top memories of beer drinking.

So, how about that question of the "best beer"? Here's my top three, in no particular order, and, as I'm something of a beer-geek, you might be surprised:

After not having seen my best friend, Andrew, for two years, the first pint of Guinness with him in The Crown Liquor Saloon in his hometown of Belfast, accompanied by a dozen Irish oysters was nothing short of sublime. Why? Guinness is good beer, but not necessarily an outstanding stout. But with the right people, in the right setting, with the right food, it was beyond incredible.

A few months ago, after finally picking up the used car we bought (after heaps of false starts, hiccups, and general nonsense), my wife and I settled down on the couch with a bottle of DeuS by Bosteels, a chunk of Monforte Dairy sheep's milk cheese, and some fruit and crackers. Again, perfect company, perfect food, and a perfect beer, all in reward for a lot of hard effort. A perfect evening.

My son was born after a pretty long, difficult labour/delivery. My wife was a rockstar and further cemented her right to the title of "awesomest woman I know." After being up all night for the labour, we both slept a bit during the day (her more than me, obviously), but I was just beat when I kissed her and Ben goodnight and headed home after dinner.

I got home, checked some emails, and settled down with a cigar and a beer, specifically, a bottle of Mill Street Barleywine. The 2003 vintage that I had cellared for five years. In this case I was alone, but the decadence of the incredibly complex-aged beer, and the sense that my world had just changed in the best possible way, lined up so that I will probably remember drinking that beer, long after I've forgotten my first pet's name or what street I live on.

The best beer doesn't have to be ultra-rare or expensive, it doesn't have to even be "cool" or "craft." It's bestness (yes, it's a word now) has as much to do with where you are at, physically, emotionally, etc, as it does with what it actually is.

So let me ask you: What's the best beer you've ever had?

Chris Schryer regularly writes on beer and beer stuff at http://www.TorontoBeerBlog.com

The Community Event Every City Should Emulate

2012-12-13T09:18:03-05:00

The Red Carpet is buzzing. Flashbulbs popping, interviewers shouting questions, fans waving signs and asking for autographs; it feels like early September at TIFF. Except this is late fall, and the people walking into the Bloor Hot Docs Cinema aren't Hollywood Starlets and Studs, but ordinary people from the community.

It's the Fall Clean-up in Harbord Village and the Annex, one of the most innovative community projects in Toronto. Drawing a group of people as mixed as the communities, all are here to pick up litter, enjoy some healthy competition and have a bit of fun at a Hollywood-esque gala.

For years, the Harbord Village Residents' Association (HVRA) has hosted community clean-ups, which always culminated with some type of celebration. This year, Neil Stephenson (Director of the HRVA clean-ups) bumped into David Harrison (Chairman of the Annex Residents' Association) while vacationing in Creemore, Ontario, and they got into a debate as to who had the cleaner community. The result was a friendly competition, and an event that truly elevated the concept of what a community clean-up could be. It stands as a challenge to community volunteer projects in the rest of Toronto, and indeed in other Canadian cities, both for its concept and execution.

Plans were laid, The Bloor Hot Docs Cinema was booked. A team of actors were secured to line the red carpet, so that as participants arrived they were greeted by sign-waving fans, paparazzi and celebrity-gossip interviewers. Food sponsors from 18 of Toronto's best restaurants provided lunch, while there was beer from Creemore Springs and wine supplied by The Wine Rack. Other sponsors included CIBC, Scotiabank, Mirvish Productions, Krispy Kreme, Starwood Hotels, Splendido Restaurant, and many others. This was no simple "pick up some trash, get a boiled hotdog on a partially-thawed bun" event.

In addition to the lunch, the gala featured a raffle of goods donated by 20 local businesses. Councillor Adam Vaughan helped with the draw, and also addressed the crowd, praising them for their involvement.

"The environmental initiatives of Harbord Village, the work that the Annex has done on parks, these are two neighbours who are doing more than simply showing up to meetings; they are actually getting out there, and getting work done." said Vaughan.

MP Olivia Chow was also present for the day. "It's about sharing with each other.. that's what makes a neighbourhood successful. What makes it a good place to be," she said.

Matthew Fuller (son of Creemore's Brewmaster, Gord Fuller) was busy pouring beer for the thirsty volunteers. Creemore is known for active involvement in their community north of the city, but what inspired them to sponsor this particular event downtown?

"It comes down to something very simple: it's the people," says Matthew. "It's a community spirit up in Creemore that we thrive on, and so it's great to come out and support an innovative event like this, that is all about bringing people together to create a better community here."

By combining the two groups, the organizers drew a crowd of over 200 volunteers, more than doubling the last event. But more than that, they brought together neighbours, and got them working together for a great cause. So what's next? "We need to take care of our great city and our beautiful public spaces -- and I hope our community clean-up today in Harbord Village and the Annex will inspire other Toronto neighbourhoods to do the same," says Neil Stephenson. "We hope our next Harbord Village event in the spring will attract 300 people and even more sponsors to add to the 46 we currently have today."

The sponsors seemed pleased: "CIBC is very committed to supporting communities where our employees and clients live and work," said Stephen Forbes, CIBC's Executive Vice President of Marketing, Strategy and Communications. "We are proud to be a sponsor of the Harbord Village Community Clean-up which is a tremendous community-building event."

So why aren't more groups in Toronto taking this kind of initiative? In so many communities, volunteerism is trumped by schedules full of work, school, sports and family commitments. Taking this type of work-event and turning it into a party seems to be proving a successful model to draw out busy people. What events in your community are applying these principles? If you can't think of any, maybe you should start one.

Why Do Breasts Always Have to Sell Beer?

2012-11-30T17:58:29-05:00

I get emails from public relations companies all the time. Generally for medium to large breweries announcing a new product or event, but there are exceptions to that.

The other day I got a message about a bar opening in Toronto. It doesn't really matter what bar it is, as it raises a concern that exists in a variety of bars. In fact, the problem isn't even black and white, there's definitely a variety of shades of grey. Of course, the company was looking for some coverage, which is a big part of what I do. Normally I would have just sent a quick "No thanks" email to be polite and left it at that, but for some reason, yesterday was different.

I'm not sure if it was because it was my 9th wedding anniversary, and my wife continually impresses me and brings me joy. Possibly it was because I have a daughter now, and I'm thinking about my actions as a man, particularly relating to how they relate to girls and young women who are growing up in a messed up world. Whatever it is, I started typing and the next thing I knew, I had a blog post. So here's what my problem is, and what I wish for in the world (among a lot of other stuff).

Thanks for the note. While I appreciate you taking the time to write me, using women's bodies to sell alcohol is probably the thing I hate most about the broader beer culture in the western world. As this is foundational to [The Bar]'s business plan, I would hardly be able to avoid editorializing on my feelings about this, and I don't think this would be at all helpful to your marketing campaign.

I would say I wish the [The Bar] success, but I don't. I wish they would encourage their servers to dress in a way that is tasteful, and respectful to who they are, rather than how they look. To embrace who they are as individuals, rather than using their sexuality to increase the company's bottom line. I wish their customers would have the confidence to drink in social settings where they are valued, not for how much money they might spend, but rather, for what they add to the interesting mix of folks who inevitably provide the life and "feel" of a great bar. I wish they would have enough faith in themselves to not believe the hype, that drinking brand X at bar Y somehow validates them.

While this might sound preachy (it probably is), know that I feel genuinely bad for both the servers who work at these types of bars, and the customers who drink at them. Because participation in a bar culture can be a healthy wonderful experience, where you can find real validation being who you are, whether you are an attractive young women, or a balding middle aged dude like me.

Again, thank you for thinking of me. Feel free to keep me on your contact list for future announcements regarding beer and related stuff in Toronto.

Best,
Chris

What are your thoughts? Are using breasts and immodest clothing as a marketing plan acceptable? The servers are hardly being forced to work at these establishments, they choose to do so. The customers must know that the (mainly female) staff are only being to paid to act interested in them (at least they must know it on some level).

If everybody is going in with their heads up, is there a problem? Am I crazy, or an over-sensitive father? I should add, I realize this isn't exactly revolutionary thought. But I've been struck by it a lot recently. I think as a man, I need to be held to a higher standard. It's not OK to actively participate in both the objectification of a woman, and in the simplification of who I am as an individual. We need to demand better of ourselves.