2013-05-18T08:53:22-04:00 Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/author/index.php?author=erin-and-courtney-henderson Copyright 2008, HuffingtonPost.com, Inc. HuffingtonPost Blogger Feed for Erin and Courtney Henderson Good old fashioned elbow grease. tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.2550757 2013-01-25T10:49:35-05:00 2013-03-27T05:12:01-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
"Yeah, I'm pretty tired," the Chair of the Grape Growers of Ontario admits from his Niagara grape farm during a phone interview. "But you really go to town when the temperature is right."

And boy, is it ever right.

Southern Ontario is nearing the end of a week-long cold stretch that has been feeling all the more frigid, as it snapped the province out of a prolonged January thaw with at least one day with record-breaking warmth.

"In Niagara, there were 17 days in a row where there was thawing temperatures," says David Phillips, the senior climatologist for Environment Canada, noting one day reached nearly 18℃ degrees in St. Catharines. "It was downright balmy."

But all that came to a screeching halt last Sunday, when Arctic air blasted out the warmth, plummeting temperatures to about -10℃ and blowing such ferocious winds Niagara's Annual Icewine Festival was forced to shut down its Icewine Village -- when just the day before visitors were enjoying a very civilized +7℃.

"It's almost a black and white situation," says Phillips, noting that while this cold snap is not the coldest on record, it is 10 or 11 degrees colder than normal. "They [grape growers] must be gleeful. There's a nice, beautiful window here ...that's almost tailor-made for icewine production."

Indeed it is. This frozen week has given crews enough time to get in their entire crop before the weather warms up again on Monday.

"Most guys said they needed 2-3 nights to bring in their grapes -- the really big guys needed three to four," said George, who runs a 140 acre family farm growing grapes for wine companies like Constellation Brands.

George says ideal temperatures to pick Icewine are around -11℃ or -12℃, which usually means the harvest happens sometime between Christmas and New Year's Day. While some crews have managed to get out into the vineyards here and there, for the most part grape growers have been in a holding pattern, waiting for Mother Nature to give them the green light to pick.

In order for producers to legally call their product "Icewine" (yes, capitalized and all one word -- it's trademarked in Canada) a series of very strict criteria must be upheld, including picking grapes naturally frozen on the vine (no freezers allowed) and picking those grapes at a minimum of -8℃. Often that means picking in the dead of night, as the sun's warming rays can thaw frozen grapes -- even in sub-zero temperatures.

Another bonus for Icewine production, says Phillips, is that by the time the week is through, we will have had seven days without any thawing temperatures.

"There will be no grapes that will go unfrozen," assures Phillips. "They could not have ordered better weather."

Back in Niagara with all the vines picked clean, George says the three-week delay didn't hurt the grapes or the vines and he's happy with the quality of the fruit.

"Everything to me is in good shape," he says. "Now we're pressing and I can relax a little."

Can't wait for this year's Icewines to be ready? Here are a few of our favourites from past vintages that are available now.

Peller Estates Vidal Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2010 $30.10
Delicious and flavourful with aromas of canned lychee, dried fennel seed and crunchy white fruit, with flavours of buckwheat honey, peach and tangerine peel.

Reif Estate Vidal Icewine VQA Niagara River 2011 $25.05
Beautfully balanced with a great backbone of acidity and flavours of passionfruit, lychee, sea salt and golden raisins. Fantastic pairing with salty cheeses.

Strewn Vidal Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2008 $24.95
Complex and elegant with fresh pineapple, apple pie and butterscotch aromas. Great acidic lift on the palate with flavours of honey comb, paraffin, golden delicious apple and mineral notes. Terrific balance.

Lakeview Cellars Vidal Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011 $19.95
Very focused with ripe Bosc pear, sweet citrus and marmalade bitterness on the finish. Terrific length.

Inniskillin Riesling Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2008 $69.95
Very pretty and inviting with lemon balm, floral and wet stone aromas that follow through to the palate with ripe stone fruit and mandarine orange flavours.

Chateau des Charmes Riesling Icewine VQA St. David's Bench 2009 $59.95
Elegant and complex with fantastic depth. Dried orange and clove/cinnamon spice with faint petrol. Very sophisticated with great balance between fruit and earthy flavours.

Caroline Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Icewine VQA Niagara on the Lake 2009 $48
Fantastic acidic lift offers a zippy wine with lots of personality. Gooseberry, candied kumquat, roast nuts and baking spice and a refreshing salty/briney note. Delicious.

Caroline Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine VQA Niagara on the Lake 2008 $40
Very pretty pale ruby-garnet with crushed black pepper, cured meat, raspberry jam and fresh lychee on the nose. Spicy/earthy flavours of black pepper, sweet tobacco, plum and blackberry jam. Fantastic pairing with Blue Haze cheese.

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011 $39.95
Salmon-rose colour with fresh raspberry, watermelon and lime aromas and flavours. Terrific balance for a delicious, fruity and fresh quaffer.

Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc Icewine VQA Niagara on the Lake 2008 $75
This comes off almost closer to Amarone than Icewine. It's a beautiful deep ruby garnet with complex aromas and flavours of rich, ripe plum, raspberry and cassis, black licorice, vanilla bean, raisin and brandied cherry. Beyond just a dessert wine, consider pairing this with braised meats or even duck breast with fruit sauces.

Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011 $69.95
Sparkling Icewine is simply delicious offering refreshing flavours of lemon curd, passionfruit and lychee. Firm bubbles and vibrant acidity give this elegant wine lots of food friendly options from fois gras to duck confit.

]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2318429 2012-12-18T17:53:09-05:00 2013-02-17T05:12:01-05:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
Starting our trip in Vancouver, a city we've had the good fortune of visiting a few times over the years, we stopped by what's become a favourite Yaletown wineshop specializing in local bottles. It's a gorgeous little store with a tasting bar, weekly wine classes and tastings, and a small, well-trained and exceedingly friendly staff.

Each time we would go, we'd leave a little bit exhilarated and a little bit saddened. Consoling ourselves over a bottle of a new found gem, we would fantasize about the wine shop we would run back home in Ontario if given the chance, and wonder aloud if our province would ever get with the program as B.C. had?

Fast forward to a few weeks ago, when the Wine Council of Ontario invited us to a briefing to discuss that very possibility. For the last few years, WCO has been conducting studies on the value of opening Ontario's wine market to independent entrepreneurs, who would be licensed to operate their own wine stores in conjunction with the LCBO, similar to B.C.'s successful public/private system.

The group has recently launched a fun education website on this topic, www.mywineshop.ca, where any interested adults can design their own wine retail space; from theme to name — even the location where they'd open it — the website gives John or Jane Q. Public the virtual power to make it happen.

"We really do feel like this is the time," says Hillary Dawson, Wine Council of Ontario president. "If you had probably asked us four or five years ago, we would have responded 'meh, it doesn't feel right,' but it does [now]. This is something they [consumers] want to know more about and something they want to get involved with and to have that many people reach out .... [to] their MPPs already is great news."

The site has a convenient form letter that users can email directly to their MPP endorsing privately-owned wine stores. The site only went live November 19 and at the time of this writing, well over 300 people had contacted their MPPs and nearly 500 people had designed a wine store.

While the Wine Council of Ontario has not set a target for how many people they'd like to see endorse the campaign, Dawson says they're buoyed by the immediate positive response, and do plan on using the numbers garnered to further influence the government to open the market to private entrepreneurs.

Perhaps somewhat serendipitously, about the same time was launched and gaining an immediate ground swell, Ontario Conservative Leader Tim Hudak voiced his thoughts on the matter, possibly making it an election issue, saying Ontarions deserve freedoms of choice and competition.

Blog continues below slideshow:



Of course, wine and alcohol can be a contentious and divisive issue. So not surprisingly, not everyone wants to see the government-run monopoly messed with. The WCO is sensitive to the worries of concerned parents and citizens who fret about the possibility of having alcohol sold at the corner store. That's why the the Wine Council is advocating only one license per business, and so far not in favour of licenses being granted to stores that sell other items.

"If your sole business is selling alcohol, then you put your whole business on the line when you break the rules," says Dawson. "If your sole business is selling chips and you lose your [liquor] licence, then, oh well."

Nay sayers are also worried about money: how will this already cash-strapped province deal with the loss of the $1.5 billion in revenue the LCBO hands over to provincial coffers?

The WCO says Ontario has set aside about $150 million to build 70 new LCBO stores — money Dawson says could be better spent on much needed health care or education. Arguing independent entrepreneurs could take on the risk and spend their own capital — not the taxpayers' — to build their own wine shops, that $150 million could be spent elsewhere, and the province would still get its pound of flesh through taxation already in place, without the costly overhead.

"It really is a win-win-win proposal. There is absolutely no loser in this. This is good for Ontario," says Dawson. "We believe this addresses social responsibility."

It also addresses the need to keep up with Ontario's booming wine industry. Earlier this year KPMG released its findings of a study it did for WCO. The results were impressive: sales of VQA wines in Ontario rose from $178 million in 2007 to $269 million in 2011 — a 51 per cent increase that also saw the addition of 1,300 jobs. In 2010, the local wine industry generated $10 million dollars for tourism and the study suggests wine tourism will increase by at least another 20 per cent by 2017.

It's these skyrocketing numbers that has The Wine Council saying the LCBO can not keep up with that unprecedented growth.

"Each year Vintages only releases 200 slots. The challenge is you've got 130 [Ontario] wineries all competing for those 200 slots. We could probably sell 4,000 wines. How do you get your wines to market?"

When B.C. opened up its wine market to independent business, the WCO says wine culture in B.C. grew significantly, meaning greater revenues for all parties. It also allowed for tremendous growth in the local B.C. VQA industry. And the Wine Council of Ontario would like the same system implemented here.

"The LCBO performs an impressive role — and we like it," insists Dawson. "It's just at capacity — it's almost a crises of success. We have more wineries opening every year. It's not built to accommodate the growth of our industry."

When we were in sommelier school, we had a teacher who told us owning our own wine stores at many of us dreamt, would never happen in our life time.

Is it now possible all our B.C. dreaming may come true? Maybe. Hopefully. But the conversation that's going on now warrants the question: as a society, would we stand for a state-run telephone company as our only choice, or just one provincial grocery store as the sole option? Then why are we comfortable with a government run wine store dictating our choices? If the early showings from mywineshop.ca is any indication, apparently we're not.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2293090 2012-12-14T07:29:47-05:00 2013-02-13T05:12:01-05:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
And so begins our lunch time tasting of 18 Ontario sparkling wines, somewhat ironically, at the start of holiday season.

But Angelo has a point; the reputation of bubbly is a double edged sword. On one hand it enjoys a reputation as the celebration wine, the defining beverage in elegance and luxury. On the other, it's rarely invited to the Canada-Day long weekend party, or the must have option for the Big Game (unless a trophy has been won -- in which case it's used for showering). It's the stuff milestone events and holidays are made of, but never called upon to come and enjoy life's simpler moments. Angelo understands the former, but takes exception to the later.

"What's better than sparkling and chips on a Saturday afternoon?" quips Angelo (for the record we whole-heartedly agree: popcorn and blanc de blanc is a strikingly beautiful pairing as the salty, buttery, carbohydrate goodness contrasts perfectly with the vibrant, fresh flavours and texture of the bubbles).

That's what this lunch was all about: to show how sparkling wine can be an everyday quaffer, great for both solo sipping and easily paired with a wide selection of dishes. Not that we needed much convincing, as bubbly is on high-rotation in our cellars.

In Ontario, we have just the right climate for making the stuff, too. Our cool weather is exactly what's required to get the naturally high acidity needed for sparkling wine. It also just so happens that two of the grapes we grow best -- chardonnay and pinot noir -- are the main grapes of traditional champagne.

"We in Niagara can do sparkling better than anyone else in the world, next to Champagne," Angelo instructs the group of sommeliers, wine writers and critics assembled for the luxurious sparkling tasting and lunch at the Trump Tower, downtown Toronto.

That's thanks to our terroir -- that indescribable word that encapsulates the places, soils, micro-climates and people who contribute to a wine's sense of place. Ontario, being roughly four times the size of terroir-driven France, has loads of it. So much so, it's tough to offer one general description for sparkling wines coming out of this province. Which is a good thing. A very good thing.

In addition to our various micro-climates and soils, our bubbly can be made from any varietal that tickles a wine makers' fancy.

At our tasting, there were the classic chardonnay and pinot blends, but also bubbles from Riesling, Gamay and Icewine. Some were rosé, others white. The overwhelming majority were elegant, classical wines of finesse. Some were such close facsimiles to champagne, you'd be forgiven for guessing it was. But unlike champagne, which can fetch stratospheric prices of several hundred dollars a bottle, the most expensive bottle at our tasting was $45 -- the average about $30.

Angelo insists he is not trying to make sparkling wines that taste of champagne. "It's not that we don't want to taste like champagne, it's that it's not fair to compare us to champagne. Champagne is its own area. All of our sparkling wines are unique to Ontario."

Cheers to that.

Here are a few of our highlights from the tasting:

Cave Spring Cellars Blanc de Blanc Brut, VQA Niagara Escarpment NV $29.95
Made from 100 per cent Chardonnay, this sparkler could be a dead ringer for champagne. Elegant and dry, this has a nose of field flowers and chamomile, lemon and an earthy minerality. Mid-weight and balanced with tangy acidity and soft but present bubbles, flavours of brioche, lemon and mineral dominate. Try this with poached lobster, sushi or grilled prawns.

Mike Weir Sparkling Brut, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2009 $24.95
Made in the traditional Champenoise method, this is a blend of pinot and chardonnay and aged on its lees for at least three years. The result is a very fine sparkler with herbacious, orange citrus and flinty aromas. Full bodied and soft on the palate with brioche, orange, lemon meringue and a long finish. Pair with oysters, mushroom risotto or duck confit.

Château des Charmes "Méthode Traditionnelle" Rosé, VQA Niagara on the Lake 2009 $28.95
Always a top pick for us, this pretty pink sparkler is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay that's aged two to three years. Aromas of white crunchy fruit, lychee, ripe pear and peach are followed through on the palate along with red berries and floral notes. Soft and delicate mousse with balanced acidity this pairs nicely with soft, runny cheeses, roast chicken or BBQ'd salmon.

Trius Brut, VQA Niagara Peninsula, NV $24.95
A blend of 70 per cent chardonnay and 30 per cent pinot noir, this is a classic Niagara bubbly with yeast, lemon and green apple aromas and pleasant flavours of green apple, candied peach, lemon drop and bread-brioche notes. Enjoy with grilled white fish, vegetable tempura or roast pork.

Huff Estates "Cuvée Peter F. Huff" Brut, VQA Prince Edward County 2008 $39.95
A sophisticated sparkler that's fresh and vibrant with a brioche, lemon and green apple aromas followed through to the palate. Mid-weight and round with an exceptionally long finish this would pair well with strongly flavoured cheese plates, mushroom quiche, raw oysters or crab cakes.

Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011 $79.95
A truly hedonistic wine built for sensory overload. Succulent aromas of peach, crunchy white fruit and floral notes waft from the glass. Fantastically balanced acidity keeps this rich wine fresh and vibrant. Flavours of lychee, peach, honey and floral notes were dynamite paired with a white chocolate ganache flavoured yogurt, but consider ore savoury pairings as well: spicy sushi, cheese fondue or fois gras.

]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2175455 2012-11-23T00:36:59-05:00 2013-01-22T05:12:01-05:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
It's looking to be a high-priority social event, as both football lovers and football fair-weathers get set to cheer on their team (or the team someone has told them to cheer for) in the usual sporting style of pub-grub and suds.

But wait a minute. What if some of us would rather take our bubbles in a wine, rather than beer?

We've talked about this before in our regular HuffPost spot. Not every sports fan is a beer fan. Including yours truly.

Sure, we'll enjoy a cold one on occasion, but not every occasion. And to us it seems a pretty obvious link to cheer on our hometown heros with a fantastic local wine, grown and made just a few hours down the road on either side of Toronto.

And stop right there if you're rolling your eyes right now and dismissing us as wine-swilling wimps who don't know the difference between the Grey Cup and Stanley Cup (duh: someone's taking home the Grey Cup this year, while it seems like no one will get their gloves on the Stanley Cup).

We go to dozens of live games, mostly hockey (sniff) and baseball, with a sprinkling of football and soccer. We probably watch even more games at sports bars and pubs. And we've never been able to figure out why we can't get a decent glass of vino to save our lives, and our parched souls.

Recently, American stadiums made headlines for improving their wine offerings, acknowledging there are many a fan who would opt for something with a cork rather than something with a cap.

Good on 'em, we say. They'd get our dollar -- or, more likely, as we are intimately acquainted with staggering stadium price tags -- lots of dollars.

If you're a wine lover and a sports' fan, don't hide behind a bucket of beer this Sunday. No, shout it loud and proud with a great local wine to support the home team.

We've lined up a few great bottles for our Grey Cup celebration that will not only work with the spicy, salty, meaty and greasy fare sure to served up by the pound for Game Day, but will also show our home-town pride with stellar picks from Ontario's wine regions.

Casa Dea "Dea's Cuvée" Sparkling VQA Ontario, 2011 $18.95
A great option for wings, not only because it's a totally unexpected a fun pairing, but because it can both compliment the sweetness of honey garlic wings or tame the fire of suicide wings. There's also a great seam of zippy acidity to help cut through the richness of fatty wings and other fried foods and refresh the palate.

Generation Seven Nouveau, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2012 $11.95
This 100 per cent Gamay from barely two-month old grapes is fun and easy drinking with ripe berry fruit and black pepper, spicy notes that will pair with many different foods from turkey burgers to pizza. A well-priced guzzler for an enthusiastic crowd.

Trius Merlot, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2010 $14.95
A medium-bodied merlot such as this can hold its own with spicy, meaty fare like loaded nachos, as the tannins are present but not too grippy, and there's a nice balance between flavours of earthy tobacco leaf and deep plum and berried fruit to compliment the range of flavours and textures in the dish.

Southbrook "Triomphe" Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara on the Lake, 2010 $21.95
Organic and biodynamic, the herbacious element to this wine makes it a nice pairing for chile, both meaty and vegetarian, or blue cheese beef sliders.

Vineland Estates "Elevation Series" Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2011 $19.95
Spice, fat, salt. Check, check, check. This wine is the life of the party, as it can get along with just about every plate on the buffet table: from cutting through the fattiness of fried foods, to bringing out the best in spicy dishes and it can also hang on its own as a food-free sipper.

Creekside Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2011 $13.95
Tangy, zippy, aromatic Sauv Blanc is dynamite with guacamole and Mexican-inspired food. It's refreshing acidity and herbacious notes also does well with deep-fried, spicy goodness like jalpeno poppers, as well as veggies and dip (like the ones that come with your wings).

]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.2057182 2012-11-02T07:54:25-04:00 2013-01-02T05:12:01-05:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
Just like you take your sweaters out of storage, change the tires on your car and adjust your cooking methods to heartier, cold-weather fare, so should you swap out your lighter summer sippers, for more substantive winter wines.

Think about the things you like to eat during these blustery, dark, Canadian evenings. Likely stews, casseroles and roasts top your list of culinary go-to's. Those easy, breezy, refreshing whites aren't going to cut it with robust meals. Here's a few of our winter time wine picks, you are welcome to make them yours, or let us know what your go-to cold weather drink is in the comments below.

BLOG CONTINUES AFTER SLIDESHOW



Gamay -- We think Gamay, the main grape of Beaujolais, is one of the most under-appreciated grapes out there, and it if you're not drinking it, you're missing out. Juicy and complex with flavours of red berries, plum, earth, smoke and spice, Gamays also have low tannin and nice acidity, making them perfect for food pairing. Ontario makes some stellar examples of superior Gamay, and, because these wines are not exactly riding the popularity train, you can get fantastic bottles for less than $20. We really like 13th Street Gamay Noir, VQA Niagara Peninsula, ON 2011.

Rioja -- There are good buys to be found in this category, many worth more than they are priced. Riojas are typically medium bodied, lush and rich in texture and deep flavours of black cherry, plum, tobacco leaf, wild savoury herbs, and cocoa/vanilla oaky notes. Being from Spain, it's not surprising they pair really well with spicier dishes like chorizo paella, but also earthier fare like grilled lamb and rosemary. Try Campo Viejo Crianza, Rioja, Spain 2008. Priced well under $20 in most markets, it's a best buy to be sure.

Chianti Classico -- Made from Sangiovese grapes which are known for high acidity, this Tuscan red is a classic pairing for Italian-American dishes like spaghetti & meatballs or pepperoni pizza. But Chianti Classicos can go beyond being a basic "spaghetti wine." With flavours of chocolate covered cherries, black olives and sundried tomatoes with a leather earthiness, think of pairing them with cold-weather dishes like pot roast, beef stew or chicken cacciatore. Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico 2010 is modern and easy drinking -- perfect for Friday nights at home.

Cabernet Sauvignon -- No winter wine list would be complete without your big-boy cab. Rich, dense and succulent, cabs cry out for steak, but they can also pair nicely with mushroom based dishes, as well as game meats like venison. Because cabs are so hearty and generous, keep your dishes relatively simple. A fantastic value-driven option for lovers of New World Cab Sauv is Chile's Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, which is shows an elegance and complexity beyond its modest price tag.

Rosé -- Now hear us out. Pink wine has acquired a bit of a bad rap as a one-trick pony only good for springtime sipping at baby showers. But in truth, rosé is delicious anytime of year: its elevated acidity and food friendly structure means it goes really well with most holiday feasts, pairing nicely with everything from roast turkey to baked ham. We just added Ontario's Closson Chase Rosé 2011 to our cellars for sipping with cheese plates and festive dinners this winter.

Pinot Gris -- The alter ego of Italy's Pinot Grigio, this grape does exceptionally well in cool climates like Ontario & B.C., but arguably Alsace is the home to Pinot Gris, producing unctuous, honeyed wines that are refreshing without being crisp. Picture the classic, rich foods of Alsace: pork schnitzel, sauerkraut, foie gras, sausage, duck confit... all deliciously decadent, albeit calorie laden, dishes that do well with wines that will cut through the fattiness, and bring out the flavours. It could be our German heritage, but we salivate just thinking about it. One that's worth trying is Pierre Sparr Réserve Pinot Gris 2009.

White Rhône -- Seemingly always in the shadow of its Big Brother Reds, whites coming out of the Rhône are pretty, round and stylish, made from blends of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussane and Grenache Blanc among others. Weighty, oily and rich on the palate with apricot and peach, honeysuckle and jasmine, almonds and hazelnuts, the exact taste will depend what grapes -- and how much of each -- went into the blend. If you're new to this wine, try Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc, an inexpensive (less than $15), yet quality driven, white wine to drink on its own or with rich white meats like pork loin, roast chicken or lobster in cream sauce.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1861413 2012-09-11T07:44:54-04:00 2012-11-11T05:12:01-05:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
So we decided to take it to the pros, and let them give you the straight goods on why Ontario wine costs what it does.

"We just go to the 'apples to apples' argument: compare appellation wines to appellation wines and you will see tremendous value in Ontario wines," says Michèle Bosc, Director of Marketing at Château des Charmes in Niagara, one of Ontario's pioneer wineries. "Just like any wine region there are 'value' wines and more premium wines ....Compared to many other regions, our wines seem inexpensive."

Ed Madronich, President of Niagara's Flat Rock Cellars, agrees, saying Ontario should be compared with other cool climates like Burgundy, New Zealand or Oregon.

"I had some French wine makers here, and they told me, 'if I could put a French label on your wine, I could charge five times as much,'" Madronich told us, noting Pinot Noir from Burgundy can cost more than $70 and from New Zealand $40 or more. But in Ontario (which has similar climate and soil) a Pinot Noir costs only about $20 to $30.

Cool climate also means more vigilance in the vineyard. Last spring, a snap freeze forced Vineland Estate Winery to hire helicopters at $110 an hour to hover over the vineyards to push warm air down, and keep the vines from freezing.

"Cool climate viticulture is by its nature more expensive to establish and operate. We do not have the luxury of boundless sun and heat... we also must combat disease and pests more in cooler climates," says David Hulley, Vineland's Director of Customer Experience. "Due to these factors and more, we concentrate on premium wines and not bulk.  There is no point to trying to compete with warm climate bulk wines."

Hulley adds foreign wineries enjoy government subsidies that Ontario wineries do not. Tack on Ontario's cost of land, a multi-tiered regulatory system, taxes and the cost of labour ("Vineyard workers in Argentina are paid in a day what we pay our vineyard workers in an hour!" says Bosc) and the dollars and cents on local wine keep rising. Hulley says Vineland's $85 Meritage sells out every year because despite the higher price point, it still offers value.

"Niagara boasts more international gold medals per capita than any other wine region in the world.  Our region is small and it produces premium, world-respected wines.  It is a waste of our time, energy and scarce suitable land to try and produce 'cheap' wines ..."

It's possible to find very inexpensive Ontario wines in the LCBO; but they're often blended with bulk grapes from foreign countries, and the same effort does not go into those bottles.

"If that's what you like, great, go buy it," says Madronich. "[But] hand sorted, gravity fed, French oak barrels ... doing all that stuff means quality, and I want to wake up every morning knowing that I've done everything I can to make a great bottle of wine."

Each winery in this article makes a range of wines from less than $20 to $40 and up. Here are our recommendations for save and splurge wines from each:

Chateau des Charmes:

2007 "Old Vines" Cabernet-Merlot, VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc & Merlot hand sorted and sourced from various vineyards. Flavours of dark berry fruit, chocolate and spice.

2010 "Equuleus" VQA St. David's Bench $40
The flagship wine that's only made in select years. A Bordeaux blend sourced from 25 year old vines. Dark berry, coffee and dark chocolate flavours, with a potential to age another decade.

Vineland Estate Winery:

2009 Dry Riesling VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95
Created with Riesling grapes from five vineyards, this is a refreshing, mineral driven wine that's great with fried seafood, cheese plates or grilled white fish.

2009 St. Urban Riesling VQA Niagara Escarpment $20
Focused and energetic with zippy acidity look for citrus, mineral and orchard fruit notes. Drink now or over the next 5 years.

Flat Rock Cellars:

2008 Chardonnay VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.15
Tropical fruit, vanilla/ginger spice, wet stone and light toasty notes. Easy drinking, try with mushroom stuffed, roast pork loin or broiled lobster and butter.

2009 "The Rusty Shed" Chardonnay VQA Twenty Mile Bench $25.15
This wine took gold at the International Wine Challenge alongside two Burgundian producers. Elegant and focused, with tropical & orchard fruit flavours, mineral, and sweet spicy oak notes.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1680875 2012-07-18T13:54:41-04:00 2012-09-17T05:12:07-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
It took is a little over 40 hours, but we organized, inventoried and catalogued 600 bottles of wine in an impressive collection that contained cases of super Tuscans, Lafites, and Barolos from the outstanding 1961 vintage.

But as grand as this collection is, there were unfortunately a number of duds laced throughout the bottles. Bottles that were once fine, or even very good, but after being buried in the back of an ever-growing stock, had now fallen the victims of time.

As we blogged a few years ago, it's important to keep on top of you wine collection, otherwise you are in for heartache -- and possibly wallet ache too -- as those once-precious gems that made your cellar so resplendent are now dark spots on an otherwise carefully constructed masterpiece.

If you have a cellar in your home, or are thinking about starting one, there are a few things you should think about when purchasing bottles to fill it.

Do you even like older wine?

Sure, there's a certain prestige that comes with having a vertical of Chateau Mouton Rothschild dating back every vintage to 1945, but most of the people we meet don't really like older wines.

That's because wines of some serious age start to lose their fruitiness and develop instead tertiary flavours of leather, nuts and earth. While some may find this very enjoyable, others do not. We were once at a professional tasting where they brought out a "ringer" of a wine. It was a Bordeaux dating back to the early '80s, and a number of people in the room questioned if it was still good, including yours truly. It tasted like an old library: dusty, dried out leather and a bit of faded ink and yellowed paper. But those in charge insisted it was still technically good, and was just the way the wine develops.

Now, of course, not all aged wines will taste or smell like that particular one did, but you should ask yourself when buying a wine for cellaring, will you enjoy the wine more in 20 years, with all that it brings, or do you prefer the fresh and fragrant wines that are ready to go now?

Do you want to put in the time to maintain your cellar?

Not everyone does, and thankfully that's why we have jobs. But almost every cellar we've organized has suffered some neglect and ultimately, because of that, more than a few bottles have been wasted. If you can't or don't want to keep your cellar organized, consider hiring a professional (hint, hint).

Research

As they say, a stitch in time saves nine. Okay, that may not be the best cliched metaphor, but you're picking up what we're throwing down. Talk to the agent or sales person and ask about the producer, and the vintage. Even the best wine makers can't escape mother nature, and some years are better than others.

Everything has a shelf life

Some wines are made to see their 40th birthdays and beyond. But understand that wine is a living thing, and just like humans, it can't go forever, not matter how good the cellar. Push it past its prime, and you're in for disappointment. When you're asking about the producer and the vintage, also ask about expected ageability, and if you can afford to, buy more than one bottle. Open the first bottle up when it's ready to drink and take notes as to how you think it's progressing. Based on what you taste, open another the next year or maybe at the midway point or and test it again. You should be able to refer back to your original notes to see if the wine is improving or fading.

What's Your End Goal?

Would you like to have a look-but-don't-touch collection worthy of Sotheby's envy, or would you like a cellar built for consumption? Decide what you want and buy based on your own wants and needs.

For what it's worth, our personal cellars are a mix of the two: about 80 per cent of our wines are for consumption sometime between now and the next 10 years, and 20 per cent are for long term aging that we wouldn't even consider opening for at least another decade, and will likely sit on for 20 years or more.

Probably, as our cellars grow, that ratio will start to even out to a 70-30 mix, or less, but at this point we know that we're impatient hedonists at heart, and knowing thy self is more than half the battle in building a successful cellar.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1637321 2012-06-29T10:02:48-04:00 2012-08-29T05:12:05-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/ received Royal Assent and Canadian provinces are now free to set their own policies for wine trade without the federal government imposing any rules of its own.

So what's changed? Well, ummm -- and this is a bit awkward -- but nothing really.

"It really hasn't opened up anything," said one Ontario winery owner who asked his name wasn't used. "But it's a great PR story for the federal government."

The bill that did away with an antiquated federal law banning the shipment of alcohol between provinces did pry open the rusty flood gates to allow, at least federally, the passage of wines over provincial borders; but the key word here is "provincial."

Even though the feds are on board to do away with the prohibition-era law, provinces are still only giving an inch, allowing for tourists from other provinces to bring back some wine and alcohol with them, but that's where the buck stops.

"The bottom line is, if you're visiting a winery in B.C. and you're from Ontario, you can bring back wine with you. If you're back in Toronto and you want that wine again, you have to order it through the LCBO," said Rowland Dunning Executive Director of the Canadian Association of Liquor Jurisdictions -- the body that represents the interests of all provincial liquor control boards.

And would you like to know why?

Taxes.

Dunning says provincial coffers could stand to lose something to the tune of $300 million a year in potential tax revenue if wineries were allowed to sell directly to out of province consumers.

"The wineries just want to avoid taxes," Dunning said, noting $300-million could wipe out the debt of cash-strapped Toronto. "We don't think ecommerce is necessary because we can get it for you -- if the winery will sell it to us."

Many wineries opt out of selling to the provincial liquor boards, because they don't produce the mass quantities needed to stock shelves, and it can be more profitable to sell it directly from the winery, even if that means only having access to in-province consumers only.

"They [the liquor boards] simply want their pound of flesh," complained the anonymous winery owner. "[Not allowing direct shipping between wineries and consumers] It's short sighted. It would give an advantage to Canadian wineries. Why would you want to restrict your domestic industry? I have no problem paying taxes. At the heart of this matter, let's be clear: It's about preserving the unionized monopolies."

In Ontario alone, the wine industry employs nearly 7,000 people, brings in one million visitors annually and for every bottle of wine sold, puts back more than $12 in value-adds to the Ontario economy for an overall total of about $200-million per year.

The passage of bill C-311 is a small, but important step, notes Dan Albas, the Okanagan-Coquihalla MP who proposed bill C-311 in the House of Commons. In an impassioned blog, on his website he wrote he would keep pushing this issue, and tore down the tax argument provincial liquor boards are using, writing that the HST attached to the sale and shipment of each wine goes farther for tax payers than what the monopolies hand over after their high administrative costs are paid.

While we believe bill C-311 has shone a positive light on this issue, making Canadians more aware of the pedantic legalities surrounding out of province wine, and like Albas we think this bill has made a small, but important step.

However, we find it outrageous that you can buy a firearm in this country and have it shipped across provincial borders, directly to your door, why does wine, beer and spirits raise the alarm?

The current system favours imported wines over domestic, which hurts local industry and local jobs. It's about time all levels of government bring about changes that will see Canadian wineries thrive and compete on an international scale, starting right here at home.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1609240 2012-06-20T12:31:26-04:00 2012-08-20T05:12:05-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/ proper temperatures for storing wine.

She just purchased a swanky new fridge that had three separate temperature controlled sections. Ostensibly, one was designated for white, the other red, and the last sparkling wine.

But like all things in the world of wine, frustratingly, it's not that simple. To maximize enjoyment, some whites are meant to be served warmer than others (usually fuller bodied wines like white Burgundy), and some reds are meant to be drunk cooler (usually lighter, simpler reds like Beaujolais).

So, thinking that many of you may be wondering the same thing, we decided to put together this little cheat sheet for you.

Light whites/inexpensive bubbly/sweet wines: 4 C - 8 C
Examples of wines that should be stored at this temperature are Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Muscadet, Cava, Prosecco and Icewine.
(With the exception of Icewine, wines in this category are usually inexpensive).

Full bodied whites/light reds/Champagne: 8 C - 10 C
Examples here include white Burgundy, Viognier, Beaujolais, Valpolicella, and New World Pinot Noir.
(Usually pricier whites, and reds that can range from value wines to investment bottles -- especially with Pinot Noir).

Full bodied reds: 14 C - 18 C
Wines stored at this temperature include Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Barolo, Zinfandel, Malbec, Chianti. (Most often, these wines are in the mid- to high- price range).

Whites are Served Too Cold, Reds are Served Too Warm

By now we've all heard the old adage that whites are served too cold, and reds too warm.

That's because at some point in time, someone somewhere heard red wine should be served at room temperature and held steadfastly to that rule. Of course, we all know now that was in reference to the days when we all lived in stone dwellings without central heating, and room temp meant more like 17 C - not the 21 C degrees or more that most of us live in today.

As for whites, someone somewhere said whites are to be served cold, and in our minds, how do you make things cold? You stick them in the fridge. But again, think about the days of yore, when wine collections were kept in the basement, which had an "underground" temperature of about 10 degrees or so.

Cold can inhibit flavour. When you drink a wine that is near the freezing mark, understand that you're not going to be picking up on a lot of nuances. But that's fine, because if done correctly, the wines you're drinking cold are simple wines anyway. In this case let's use Pinot Grigio: a crowd favourite to be sure, and often a crowd favourite because it's an inoffensive quaffer. No oak, no bold flavours, and goes well with a lot of food. Slam dunk.

Now let's let that Pinot Grigio heat up a bit -- let's say to 18 C -- the temperature of a full-bodied red. Now you're probably going to taste a flavourless, bitter wine with heightened alcohol. Yuck.

The flip side's the same: take a big, bold Shiraz, full of black pepper spice, juicy blackberry fruit, and maybe some herbacious eucalyptus notes. Served in the ballpark of 16 to 18 degrees Celsius, this wine's a gem, showing all the complexities, flavour and nuance that make it what it is.

Now throw that bad boy in the fridge, and what do you get? An icy wine that's barely detectable as a Shiraz. A total waste of money.

However, this isn't a perfect world and chances are pretty good you're going to find yourself someplace -- maybe even your own home -- where the wine you're served will not be the temperature it should.

Here's what you can do to heat up, or cool down your vino:

Cool down:

An ice bucket with half ice half water is the fastest way to chill your white wine. In most cases it'll take 20 minutes. It's faster than the freezer or a bucket filled with just ice.

If your red needs cooling down, stick a full bodied red in the fridge for 15 minutes and a light-bodied red in the fridge for an hour. If your glass is already poured, here's a trick we saw recently: get one ice cube, get an ice cube and swirl it around for 10-20 seconds, then scoop it out and carry on.

Warm up:

If your red is to chilly, decanting is always a great option. By transferring the wine to another (warmer) vessel the wine can gradually, but reasonably quickly, come up to temperature.

If a you receive a glass, cup both your hands around the bowl, so the warmth of your hands can increase the temperature of your wine.

A few more tips:

When in doubt serve wine on the cooler side, rather than warmer.

Never store your wine in the kitchen -- especially on top of the fridge. Wine needs a stable environments without large swings in temperature, humidity, light and vibration. The top of the fridge is just about the worst place for all of these things.

Store your wines in the basement. Even if you don't have a proper cellar, keep your wine bottles in the cases under the stairs.

If you don't have a basement, the closet will do.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1537788 2012-05-29T08:26:16-04:00 2012-07-29T05:12:04-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
For years, we've insisted that you do not need to cook with great wine -- or even barely passable wine for that matter. And for years, leftover wine -- usually the dregs of bottles that we haven't finished for one reason or another -- have sat on our counter tops or in our cupboards ready to be used in our next foray into the kitchen.

The reason for this long held belief is because a number of years ago, when Erin was a server at a leading Bay Street resto, she asked the chef his thoughts on cooking with wine.

At the time, he was riding a wave of "It Chef" status, and was often quoted and featured in many of Toronto's foodie publications, so he certainly had the cred to give an answer Erin would adopt as her own cooking belief. He told her even if a wine was left on the counter top for a year in a hot kitchen in direct sunlight, it could still be cooked with. His food was amazing, so that was all Erin needed to hear.

Sharing her answer with me, her sister, we went on our merry culinary ways, saving the dregs of left over, unconsumed bottles, the wine's fate now redirected from wine glass to cooking pot.

Qualifier: if we found a bottle to be corked or somehow undrinkable because of technically flawed reasons, we returned it or threw it out. Only wine that was once drinkable, but somehow forgotten about, went into the food we cooked. Usually there wasn't that much left over, and as almost daily cooks, wines rarely sat around for too long.

However, something happened to Erin the other day that has forever changed her mind about this long belief. Reaching for the nearest bottle of "cooking" red, she happily added it to a coq au vin she was whipping up on one of the more recent rainy, cool days Toronto experienced a few weeks ago. The aroma that wafted out was less-than pleasant: a sort of mix of vinegar, rancid walnuts & stale port (FYI -- the red did not begin life as a port). The resulting flavour not much better, and now laced through the dish.

One bad ingredient, and hours of work plus the anticipation of yummy, soul-warming, comfort food on a cold day, down the drain -- literally. Uneatable, Erin dumped out the whole thing and had PB&J for dinner.

Likely this particular bottle of cooking wine was somehow pushed to the back of the line and left for way too long -- and Erin should have given it a whiff just to ensure it was still palatable, but she didn't and suffered the consequences.

Now, some will argue you should only use the best -- if you wouldn't put it in your glass, why would you put it in the pot? -- and we say please invite us to dinner if you're adding a nice Chateauneuf to your stew, but our budgets are a tad more meagre, so we get by with a bottle of something a little more modest.

We now buy wines specifically designated for cooking: usually less than $10, but still something that will taste fresh and pleasant, with elevated acidity to add a nice bit of nuance and balance the flavours in the meal.

We find for our money, Argentinian Rieslings with their ripe stone fruit and tropical notes add some great dimension to a dish calling for white wine, and for dishes in need of red, inexpensive, simple Chianti's with its bright red cherry, are generally a safe bet.

That's how we roll in the kitchen, but we'd love to know how many of you only cook with the best, whipping up five-star creations with Barolo braises and Amarone roasts, and how many prefer to keep it simple with bargain bottles to create delicious dishes.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1421527 2012-04-16T13:59:14-04:00 2012-06-16T05:12:01-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
To my surprise, when we arrived empty-handed our friends admitted they had nothing to offer: no wine, no beer... not even coffee! Fair, we invited ourselves, and after a busy, long holiday weekend they still had yet to go grocery shopping But our excitement over relaxing with a nice glass of red catching up with pals came to a crashing end. Sure, we found a local pub and had a great time chatting over pints, but it wasn't the same.

Our conversation eventually led to why -- and how? -- they could possibly have run out of everything in their house. Especially because they believe they entertain more than the average hostess.

We offered them our list of entertaining staples, which we always have on hand in case of a social emergency, which we will also now share with you. These are our indispensables -- what are yours?




1. Wine: Both red and white. We like to change things up all the time, but for an inexpensive crowd pleasers we look to wines under $15. Look to Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2011 from Chile. It can be found in the general list of the LCBO, and it's a tasty deal. For red, try Montes Classic Series Cabernet Sauvignon, also from Chile.

If you're American, you can probably find something decent for way cheaper, but here in Ontario we're victims of wicked taxation on booze, so no Two-Buck Chuck for us.

Anyway, pick up six of each and keep them stored in the closet or under the stairs, so you won't get caught short when unexpected visits happen.

2. Beer: We like to keep about six to 12 types on hand, but you may need more, depending on your friends' -- and your own -- drinking preferences. We go for a mix of light, refreshing beer like Mill Street Organic, and something a little different like Peroni, which is light and nutty with a slightly bitter finish, or KLB Raspberry Wheat Beer. It's charmingly fruity without being sickeningly sweet.

3. Gin: We love gin. G&Ts are our cocktail of choice in the summer months, and we've been known to sneak one or two over the winter just for kicks. Beefeater works just fine for us, and there's a bottle of it in the freezer at all times.

4. Vodka: Same reasons as gin. It's perfect for mixing and generally the more popular liquor. Can't beat a Caesar (the drink, not the salad) at brunch. Because we mix vodka and don't drink it straight, we're perfectly happy with Smirnoff -- its clean taste means it doesn't interfere with the purpose of the cocktail. And it suits our budgets nicely for somewhere around $25.

5. Scotch: We're not scotch drinkers, but our dad and other good friends are, so we keep a bottle around just in case. A simple Glenfiddich is good enough -- cheap (as far as scotches go), decent and reliable.

6. Mixes: We don't go overboard here; we just keep some soda water or tonic on hand. Nobody we know will ever come over and ask for a Cosmopolitan and if they did, we'd get new friends. Your guests may be different.

7. Cheese: We keep about three different types in the fridge at all times. Typically, we have Beemster ( a hard, cow's milk cheese from Holland with flavours of nuts and caramel), Saint-andré (a triple-cream cow's milk cheese that tastes of pure butter -- it's always the first to disappear from the cheese board), and Stilton (a blue cow's milk cheese from Britain. Not everyone like blue cheese, but they should).

8. Cured meats: We are suckers for the spicy, dry-cured Hungarian sausage, Csabai, but if we can't get it, hot Genoa salami is just fine. Prosciutto is also a regular in our fridges -- it's not our favourite, but it's a favourite of most people we know. We'd rather have a nice pate or liverwurst, but we're kind of alone with that.

9. Crackers: You can't have a cheese and meat board with out the carbs. We like Ace Bakery's olive oil and sea salt crostini.

10. Olives: A nice assortment is all you need. Current faves are Lucques from France, which taste surprisingly chocolatey, Gaeta that are tiny brownish olives from Italy, and black sundried olives, which are intensely salty, but delicious.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1357985 2012-03-19T11:48:29-04:00 2012-05-19T05:12:01-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
How Do You Know If A Wine is Good?
Let's be honest here: the reason people ask this question is so they can learn. When well-intentioned sommeliers like ourselves say, "If you like it, it's good," it's an infuriating answer, not to mention slightly patronizing.

True, if you like it, go for it, but just like art, literature and automobiles, there are quantifiable measures to deciding if a wine is good or not. But also like art, literature and automobiles, the quality is in the mouth of the taster.

Complexity - Complexity refers to the number of aromas and flavours you can pick out in a wine. Generally speaking, the more you can detect, the higher quality the wine.

Balance - Just like in cooking, you want all the elements to match -- nothing to salty, nothing too sweet. In wine, you're looking to see if the alcohol, tannin, residual sugar and acid are all in harmony and nothing sticks weirdly out of proportion.

Concentration - High quality wines have great concentration, meaning aromas, flavours and structure are fairly compact.

Finish - When you swallow the wine, how long does it last on your palate? If the flavour is gone with the wine, it has a short finish; if it lasts for several seconds after the wine has left your mouth, it has a long finish. A long finish is one indicator that the wine may be able to age for a few years and that it's a good wine.

If a wine has these characteristics and no flaws, it's likely a technically good one... which brings us to our next most-asked question:

How Do I Know If A Wine Is Bad?
There are some visual cues like colour of wine (both reds and whites turn amber/brown as they get on in age), and state of the bottle (the cork is leaking, or starting to get pushed out, or crumbling). But while it's good to note the physical appearance, it's not always a true indicator that a wine that is off, so your best bet is to try it.

First, smell it. If it smells like a wet basement, vinegar or baked fruit, it's a no-go, but if you're still unsure, give it a sip and see what happens (most likely, nothing good).

Corked wine smells strongly of cork, with no other aromas (fruit, spice, earth etc.) detectable. It will also taste of cork with few, if any, other flavours.

Oxidized wine tastes flat and almost sherry-like. It's been exposed to oxygen and has likely taken on a darker, brownish hue.

Maderized wine tastes cooked. It's usually because the bottles have been stored in a hot environment for too long and have now taken on the flavours of dried fruits and roasted nuts, similar to fortified wine like Port and Maderia (where the name "maderized" comes from). In fortified wines, these flavours are great; in table wines, they're not.

Fizzy wine. If you get a table wine that's not a sparkling but has bubbles anyway, it's gone. Scientifically speaking, some yeast was still present in the wine after it was bottled and it interacted with the existing sugars and started refermenting. It's not unlike the process of making Champagne, but in still wine, bubbles are a flaw.

When & Why Should I Decant Wine?
The five Ws of decanting can mystify the best of us, and really it comes down to the two reasons why to decant listed below.

To remove sediment - This doesn't happen nearly as much these days as it has in yesteryear, as today's wines are often fined and filtered before bottling. However, some big tannic reds that are getting on in years (say, a decade or more) will start to have tannins "fall out" of the wine and settle at the bottom of the bottle. There's nothing harmful in drinking them, but the texture is unpleasant, not to mention the stuff it leaves on your teeth is not very attractive. To remove the sediment, pour wine slowly into a decanter while shining a candle or flashlight in the neck and shoulder of the bottle so you can see when the sediment start rising up. Stop pouring when you see it nearing the neck.

Aeration - This is the most common reason to decant a wine. Bigger, bolder reds that have spent a good number of years in bottle are often so "tightly wound" the aromas and flavours need to be given a good wake-up call. By pouring the wine from the bottle into a decanter or carafe, you allow a bit of oxygen to mix with the wine just enough to give it the slap on the bottom it needs to perk up.

Most wines that benefit from decanting are big reds like Barolos and Cabernet Sauvignons that are a few years old, though bigger whites like Viognier and Chardonnay can also improve with decanting.

Lighter reds like Pinot Noir or Gamay and wines several decades old rarely benefit from decanting, and can even be harmed by too much exposure to air. So be very careful when deciding to decant.

What's Your Favourite Wine?
This is the question we hate the most. It's like asking us to pick a favourite pair of shoes. Can't be done. We love them all at different times for different reasons: What are we eating? What time of year is it? What's the occasion?

We live in Toronto and are only a few hours away from wine country, so we often look to Ontario for some fantastic bottles, including many of those listed below. Even though we can't crown any one particular bottle as the "favourite," we do have a number in our heavy rotation list.

Riesling - Riesling is great. Not only is it delicious and comes in a variety of style from bone dry to sweet, the high acid level makes it a winner to pair with most foods. From cheese to pork, aromatic Thai to spicy Mexican, this baby's got you covered.

Chardonnay - It's arguably the most widely-grown white wine grape in the world, and for good reason. The grape itself is fairly neutral and it's up to the wine maker to push it in the direction he or she wants. From big, oaky California Chards, to mineral-driven Chablis, Chardonnay comes in all shapes and sizes, and with a bit of fun trial and error, it's easy to find one that's just right for you.

Rosé - We're not talking that sickly sweet White Zinfandel stuff you can buy by the jug from California. If that's your thing, more power to you, but we just can't stomach it.

No, we're talking blush wines more in the style of the South of France. Dry, crisp and elegant, they straddle both the red and white wine worlds: the body and richness of a red with the refreshing crispness of a white.
Rosés are great for sipping with goats cheeses, paired with fritto misto or with Sunday roast chicken.

Dolcetto d'Alba And Barbera d'Alba - These easy drinking reds come from the Alba region in Piedmont, Italy. They're similar in structure -- some argue Barbera is richer and more serious than the easy going Dolcetto, which means "little sweet one" in Italian.

Both taste of chocolate-covered cherries, with light spice and some rustic notes of leather or barnyard, and their bright acidity makes them food-friendly to go with anything from a meat ragu sauce to rich osso buco.

Cabernet Franc - Not everyone loves this grape, but we do. It has the weight and blackberry/cassis flavours of a Cabernet Sauvignon, but the complexity is kicked up a notch with the tobacco leaf and herbacious notes also found in the wine.

GSMs from the Midi - Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre for anyone wondering about the initials. Syrah offers spicy dark fruit notes, the Grenache gives power and weight, and Mourvèdre provides a rustic edge of wild herbs, leather and barnyard. GSMs are produced from California to Australia, but we like the Midi -- the hot area in the south of France that is made up of the Languedoc-Roussillon regions -- because it's easy to get mind-blowing, great wines at dirt cheap prices. ]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1326699 2012-03-07T12:57:13-05:00 2012-05-07T05:12:02-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
So, to maximize our precious quality time with our friends, we called around looking to book brunch reservations only to find out that brunch reservations are so last year. No one, it seems, is willing to book a table for this highly coveted feast.

After being assured by one pleasant restauranteur that tables flip quickly in her place and the wait is never long, we resigned to go there.

So when Sunday rolled around, we headed to the Quick Flip Restaurant. Walking in the front door we slammed into a wall of people, as they were also waiting for the quick turnaround.

Behind us, a young thing in falsetto politeness asked the harried hostess if it was possible to place her group's order while standing in line. Sure, it was a bit obnoxious, and it was clear to everyone she was really giving the invisible one-finger salute, but we couldn't help but agree with her sentiment: we're coming to spend money at your business. Do not make us wait to do it.

Sitting down at our table (to the restaurant's credit, it was less than 10 minutes just as promised on the phone) one friend remarked, "What is it with not taking reservations? I don't mind a slight wait for brunch, but don't waste my time with dinner."

And with that observation, a rant ensued about how "no reservation" means we're not coming to your restaurant. Period.

Restaurant owners, please listen up: as noted above, we're all really busy, so we cannot gamble on the fact that your swanky eatery will be able to sit us at 7 p.m., because everyone eats at 7 p.m. We're going to a place where we've booked a table, knowing we can go right in, sit down and relax. Because that's kinda what going out for dinner is all about.

Forget (and if our mom wasn't reading we would be using a different F word) waiting. Who has the time or patience to stand around in some hot, crowded lobby, coat in hand, constantly getting bumped by the door? Moreover, if you're the "lucky" one who arrived at 5 p.m. to get a seat, how happy are you that the growing lineup is staring hungrily at your steak? Awkward all around.

We can't see why restaurants don't insist on reservations. Both of us have spent nearly two decades working in restaurants, first as servers and eventually earning our sommelier certification and working as managers.

Reservations help restaurants staff properly (no one's standing around bored, no one's totally weeded -- well, in theory). Reservations help manage the flow of service ("sorry, 12 noon is currently full, but we do have an opening at 12:15"), so servers and the kitchen don't get so slammed at once that the patrons end up waiting 45 minutes for their apps. And reservations help restaurants keep tabs on who's coming and going and how often, which ultimately helps them shape their business and maximize their full money-making potential.

What's the downside?

Sure, restaurants may argue there's a lot of no-shows when it comes to reservations. Yup, that's true. So create a 10 minute policy. Someone books for 7 p.m. and still isn't there by 7:10 p.m., and hasn't called to explain why, then the table is up for grabs. No reasonable person can quibble with that.

To not offer paying customers the comfort and security of a reservation is flat out inhospitable, and really just bad service.

So restaurants, do what you want, it's your business, it's your money. But we've gotta think we're not the only busy people on the planet who don't have time to waste standing around waiting to purchase your product. To people like us, no reservations means we're not coming. ]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1313393 2012-03-01T20:58:20-05:00 2012-05-01T05:12:02-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/ crowd-pleasing wines, that are not only delicious, but completely affordable. With a few priced at under $8 a bottle, some would even say our suggestions were downright cheap.

Heralding our own advice, we went to the LCBO to pick up a couple bottles from that list to share with a few friends we were entertaining. But in the midst of shopping, something strange happened: we immediately felt guilty about serving inexpensive vino.

It didn't matter that they were excellent wines, or that we even drink the bottles ourselves as well as recommend them to friends and strangers. For some reason, which surprises us still, we put down the bottles and went in search of something more expensive to serve instead.

Was it because the bottles came from the General List of Ontario's LCBO, and not the exclusive Vintages section? Could it be because we had already touted the value of these (cheap!) wines in print for all the world to see? Were we worried our bargain bottles would make us look miserly and ungenerous? Bingo.

This is shocking to us. We've always bragged about how we search out premium wines at premium prices for our private collections. So if we'll do it for ourselves, why are we not confident in treating our friends with the same philosophy?

What it came down to is that when we host company, we would put more emphasis on the dollar value, and taste and quality comes in second. Sort of in the same vein as putting out the "good" towels.

Now let us offer a little bit of a disclaimer: our friends have always been generous with us. One of the group has enjoyed a successful media career and always edits everything we write before it's sent on to editors, so we don't look grammatically challenged on the professional stage (and believe us, this is no small feat).

Another has sprung for Leafs tickets -- more than once -- and while she has never mentioned the cost, I can bet it was more than 7 bucks.

So we guess with those extraordinarily beneficial and lavish perks not far from our thoughts, our minds immediately warped into altruistic overdrive and we decided to see their benevolence and raise them an indulgence.

But is that really the name of the game? Is that what friendship is all about? Because one friend doles out for a swank evening on the town, or another her professional services, are the others then obliged to return the favour plus some?

I guess in our minds, yeah. We don't want to come off as ungrateful, or ignorant to their efforts. But where does it stop? At some point we'll be footing the bill for weekends in Vegas if this weird goodwill competition doesn't end.

So, in short, we should just get over ourselves. We've fallen victim to the good-karma, what-goes-around-comes-around wheel. If we were really honest with our friends, as they justly deserve, we should just uncork the plonk, cause they'd probably like it more than the expensive stuff, anyway.]]> tag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2012:/theblog//3.1265250 2012-02-09T17:37:41-05:00 2012-04-10T05:12:01-04:00

Erin and Courtney Henderson http://www.huffingtonpost.com/erin-and-courtney-henderson/
Clicking through the time slots at about 10 different restos, it appears all that's available are the 5:30 or 9:30 seatings -- if anything is available at all. And as we are trying to squeeze in a larger V-Day group of about four to six, and not the standard Feb. 14 deuce as is so customary, we are, as they say, S-O-L.

What's that, you say? Why would we be looking for a larger group to dine out on a Tuesday evening? Well, for starters, the rest of the dining world does not go into hibernation on the day the day the lovers come out to play. And further to that, it's Erin's birthday, and every year she gets snubbed by those doing something more romantic, so we thought we'd celebrate like the rest of the human race and go out in style.

Alas, foiled again. But the more we think about it, the more we wonder, is staying in on Valentine's Day really such a bad thing?

We've worked a long time in restaurants and have grown a bit weary of the hoopla that surrounds Feb. 14. The pricey prix fixe menus for two, the cheesy decorations, the embarrassing practice of giving a single red rose to all the women dining in the place and the boatloads of couples who don't normally dine out, but feel some sort of obligation to do so, because, well, it is Valentine's Day, after all.

Now before you accuse us of being haters, we are not. We think it's a hard world out there, so any chance people are given to celebrate something good, they should take it and go crazy. But just like three-hour lineups at an amusement park for a 30-second roller coaster ride, at some point the fun has jumped the shark.

So instead of fighting for a reservation and ultimately accepting whatever leftover time slots are available, and the relatively high chance of getting a server who mentally checked out a few hours ago, we're staying in and celebrating with our favourite wines paired with some really delicious food to be shared with some of the people we love the most.

If you find yourself in the same boat, consider throwing a themed V-Day party of your own. Include foods that are know to ignite passion and serve these amourous goodies with wines to really set the senses ablaze.

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