Rupert Parker2013-06-19T06:22:42-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.ca/author/index.php?author=rupert-parkerCopyright 2008, HuffingtonPost.com, Inc.HuffingtonPost Blogger Feed for Rupert ParkerGood old fashioned elbow grease.Planet Appetite: Poznan and Wielkopolska, Polandtag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.34585482013-06-18T08:01:14-04:002013-06-18T08:50:16-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Wielkopolska, Greater Poland, occupies almost 10% of the country, and its capital, Poznan, makes a great base for exploring this historic region.
When it was behind the Iron Curtain, Poland used to have an image of a rather dull dour country where people turned to vodka to brighten up their lives. Of course all that has changed, and the fairy-tale towns and cities, many rebuilt after the war, are bright and colourful, and there's a surprisingly vibrant food scene.
Poznan suffered particularly badly at the end of WW2 as it's one of the last stops on the road from Moscow to Berlin, but many of its gems have been restored. The Cathedral on the island of Ostrow Tumski is the oldest in Poland and it was here, in 966, that Prince Mieszko I was baptised, launching Christianity as the official religion. Unfortunately, its baroque towers were destroyed during target practice by invading Russian troops but now the pristine restoration stands proud.
In fact the Soviets are loathed even more than the Germans here, not surprising when you consider Poznan was part of Prussia from the end of the 18th century until WW1. Their most imposing monument is the Imperial Castle, although Emperor Wilhelm II only stayed here twice after it was finished in 1910. Post war plans to demolish it were resisted and today it houses the vibrant Zmek Culture Centre. Other buildings from Poznan's Prussian past are the Opera and the Polish Theatre and, in this part of town, it's easy to feel that you're in a part of turn of the century Germany.
The old market square is the heart of the city, dominated by the Renaissance Town Hall and full of cafes, pubs and restaurants. Most of the multi-coloured houses were meticulously rebuilt in baroque and renaissance styles in the 1950's and today it's a place where everyone comes for a drink or something to eat. Just off the square is the Basilica of St. Stanislaus, built by the Jesuits in the 17th century. You have to go inside to adore the ornate sculpted stucco and painting and it's one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Poland.
One of the city's great assets is the huge 2.2 km artificial Lake Malta, a short walk from the centre. This is the great lung of the city and is a centre for sailing, canoeing and rowing and other outdoor activities.
There's also a zoo and an ice rink here and I get the chance to try the Adrenaline ride, a sort of do it yourself roller coaster, built on an artificial ski slope. They pull you up and then you coast down, trying not to apply the brake, hurtling round corners at terrific speed.
Around Poznan
50 km away, Gniezno played a major role in the history of Poland and is where the first kings were crowned. The star attraction here is the Cathedral with its 12th century double bronze doors decorated with scenes of the life of St. Adalbert and his bones are preserved in a 17th century ornate silver coffin inside. It's still a place of pilgrimage and there's even a vial of blood from Polish Pope John Paul II in one of the chapels.
Between Gniezno and Poznan is a Prince Mieszko's 10th century fortified royal settlement on an island on Lake Lednica. You cross by ferry to see the remains of a palace, a chapel, and a church, the oldest and best preserved remains of stone buildings in Poland. Well worth a visit is the Wielkopolska Ethnographic Park, just nearby, which has over 50 examples of traditional buildings brought from all over the region. As well as houses, there's a smithy, church and different types of windmills - guides dress in period costume and show you around.
A few km west, near the town of Pobiedziska, is a medieval siege engine theme park, sporting hands-on replicas of these weapons. They're enclosed by a high wooden palisade and the display includes a battering ram, siege hook, heavy crossbow, siege tower, Perierre and a Trebuchet. Once you've primed the giant catapult, you get the chance to fire massive boulders over the wall into the surrounding countryside. If that's too much, there's archery practise for the faint of heart.
The award for the candidate for the most bizarre tourist attraction is in the town of Nowy Tomyśl, 70 km west of Poznan. Here they have a long tradition of wickerwork so what could be more natural than weaving the world's largest wicker basket? Finished in 2006, it's 17 metres long, 9 m wide and 7.7 m high and proudly sits in a park in the centre of town. I begin to think they should be creating a giant to pick up the basket - now that would be a real Wicker Man...
POZnan has information about the city. Visit Wielkopolska has tourist information about the region as does Wielpolska Travel. Polska has information about the country.
The NH Hotel is a central place to stay.
The Zagroda Bamberska hotel is uirkier and quieter place with a great restaurant.
The Brovaria serves excellent modern Polish food with beer from its own brewery and also has rooms.
The Vine Bridge is the smallest restaurant in Poznan but has some of the best cuisine. Wizzair flies direct to Poznan from London Luton.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker.]]>Planet Appetite: Crowne Plaza - High Rise Luxury in Jerusalem, Israeltag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.34523212013-06-17T04:06:58-04:002013-06-17T09:02:07-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Situated in the centre of Jerusalem, next to the Knesset and the International Convention Centre, the Crowne Plaza makes a comfortable base for exploring the city.
Towering over the centre of Jerusalem, on the highest point in the city, the Crowne Plaza started life as a Hilton in the early 1970's but, in its latest incarnation, it's undergoing something of a revival. They've been refurbishing the 396 rooms and the 19th floor suite I stayed in was bang up to date. Two TV's, a bath and walk-in shower, were just the icing on the hotel's luxury cake and the view over the city was stunning.
Facilities include a fitness centre, sauna, tennis court and indoor and outdoor swimming pools. The hotel's Spa offers a large variety of treatments and massage therapies and there's also a sauna and steam room. The fitness centre includes treadmills, free weights, exercise bikes and offers aerobics and yoga. Younger guests will find a children's playground in the lush lawns outside while a circus-themed kids' club will keep them entertained. There's free Wi-Fi throughout.
Interestingly, as well as international visitors, there are also many local guests, so there's a strong Israeli flavour, something to give you a sense of place. The food also benefits, with a rich and varied Israeli buffet breakfast, including fresh vegetables, refreshing salads, marinated fish, and an array of cheeses and warm pastries. The hotel is right next to the International Convention Centre and the Knesset, the Israeli Parliament, and it's just under a couple of miles to the old city - an easy journey on the new light railway or on the free shuttle bus.
It's well worth exploring the immediate locality and every Saturday there's a free walking tour - highlights include the museum complex, the Spanish Orchard in Nachlaot and the vibrant Mahane Yehuda market, exploding with colour and aromas. Often when you stay in international hotels of this calibre, it's the same sterile environment and you could be anywhere - not here, the Crowne Plaza has a strong sense of character and is a great gateway to this fascinating city.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker]]>Planet Appetite: Second Jerusalem International Tourism Summit, Israeltag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.33806122013-06-04T03:18:42-04:002013-06-04T06:06:23-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Held over 2 days, the Jerusalem International Tourism Summit 2013 highlights technological innovation and explores the challenges facing Israel to increase tourist numbers by 500%.
First an admission - this is the first time I'm in Israel so I'm not sure what to expect. Before I leave, my wife asks me if it's safe and of course I nod my head, otherwise I wouldn't be going, would I? I brace myself for extra security at Luton Airport but I'm directed into the priority queue and am at the gate sooner than normal. It's the same story as I arrive at Ben Gurion airport, in Tel Aviv, with the immigration officer nodding me through and, rather than stamping my passport, pops a small insert inside.
Innovation
The conference is held in the Jerusalem International Convention Centre and there's a special emphasis on urban tourism, with a focus on new technology. It's no surprise then that tourism-related "apps" are big news here as Israel has a reputation as a start up nation, with Jerusalem being a leader in this field. We hear from Uri Levin who's developed a revolutionary mapping app called Waze and Shaha Waiser who, with Get Taxi, makes it easy to order a cab in major world cities. Superfly allows you to optimise your air miles and points when you're choosing a flight and I particularly like Yalla Basta. Their Bite Card gives you the chance to sample 6 dishes in Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda food market and they're already expanding to Barcelona and Nice.
Israel Tourism
On the morning of the second day, Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu shows up to give a keynote address, a sign of how seriously the Israeli government is taking tourism. Numbers are lamentably low, around 3.5 million last year, and the aim is to get them up to 20 million by 2020. The problem is that, in most countries of the world, Israel is still seen as a country of conflict, with a negative image of war and religion. Many speakers including Moshe Lion of the Jerusalem Development Authority, Nir Barkat, Mayor of Jerusalem, and Dr Uzi Landau, Minister of Tourism, emphasise the need to rebrand Israel as a tourist friendly nation - "We need visitors to realize that they aren't going from the airport to a battlefield."
A particular example is Jerusalem - at the moment it's being marketed as a religious destination, attracting large groups of Jewish and Christian tourists who visit the holy sites. Of course these are people who would be coming anyway and the challenge is to bring first time visitors to the country so their misconceptions can be changed. They'll soon find that there's much more to Jerusalem than just churches, mosques and synagogues including fascinating archaeological sites and museums, together with a vibrant foodie scene. The city also makes a good base for visiting the Dead Sea and the fortress of Masada as well as the rest of the country.
Rebranding
A few speakers give examples of how to go about rebranding the country - Mark Romig details how New Orleans went from the disaster of Hurricane Katrina to hosting the Super Bowl, and Charm Lee shows how a brilliant marketing campaign has made Korea one of the successes of Asian tourism. Sheldon Adelson, CEO of Las Vegas Sands Corporation, talks of his success of creating casino resorts in Macau and Singapore and of his plans for a Euro Vegas in Madrid. Gambling is certainly not the answer for Jerusalem, but establishing a consistent marketing message is vitally important. There's also a need to shortcut bureaucracy so infrastructure like public transport and hotels can be built more swiftly.
My experience reflects the problem. I want to stay on and write about the food culture here, but nobody seems to want to help me. In London I talk to the Israeli PR, Hills Balfour, who tell me that their client requires 30 days notice. In Israel I talk to the Ministry of Tourist and the Jerusalem Development Authority but they pass me, one to the other, and I get nowhere. It's not as it's going to cost them much, as I'm already in Israel and my hotel is paid for, it just seems like no one wants to take responsibility. Eventually I give up.
Urban Tourism
The architect Daniel Libeskind gives one of the most stimulating presentations. He's been responsible for many signature buildings including the Jewish Museum in Berlin, the Grand Canal Theatre in Dublin, the Dresden Museum of Military History and the Ground Zero site in New York. In all these places, tourist numbers have dramatically increased, showing that the shock of the new is still a major draw. His point is that he creates spaces that people will travel half way across the world to experience directly. Dr Richard Florida, of the University of Toronto, also defines a growing breed known as the "creative class" who are looking for an authentic experience, no longer content to lie on a beach in the sun. They need continuous stimulation so the challenge is to deliver a unique tourist experience.
After 2 days of sitting in an air-conditioned hall, I'm keen to get out in the fresh air and see what all the fuss is about. I wander round the old city, first ably guided by David Laker of Israel Personal Travel, then on my own and walk the ramparts of the 16th century walls.
Of course I also visit the rambling Church of the Holy Sepulchre, to see the places where Christ was crucified and buried, and go underground in the Western Wall Tunnels. On my final day I take one of the free Saturday tours provided by the Jerusalem City Council and am introduced to the 19th and 20th century history of HaNevi'im Street. Later, as I board my plane, I realise that I'm one of those first time visitors whose misconceptions have been successfully modified. I'm sure I'll be back for more.
The Inbal makes a good base for exploring the old city.
The Crowne Plaza is convenient for the Convention Centre.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker.]]>Planet Appetite: The Riches of Basilicata, Italy - the Land That Time Almost Forgottag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.33396472013-05-30T07:34:37-04:002013-06-02T16:34:43-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/
For most people Italy is Tuscany, perhaps a bit of Rome, even a smidgeon of Naples with a dash of Venice thrown in, but Basilicata is off their map. Even getting here is a bit tricky since there's no international airport, and you have to fly into Bari, or Naples. This is really the instep of the Italy boot, with Calabria as the toe and Puglia as the heel Agriculture is king, with wheat being the main crop and there are even a few decent wines.
Matera
This place seems to encapsulate the history of the region. It's one of the oldest settlements in the world, continuously inhabited for 9000 years, with people living in caves, known as Sassi, carved into the calcareous rock. It's not quite as primitive as it sounds since, even though they shared the space with their donkeys, pigs and hens, each cave had its own sophisticated water supply.
In the late 1940's, Italy was racked with guilt when it was revealed that people were living in these conditions, and the government evacuated everyone and moved them to new housing. The Sassi lay empty until the 1990's when people began to move back and, in 1993, Matera gained UNESCO World Heritage status.
It's still a work in progress and, although some caves have been refurbished as bars, restaurants and even hotels, there's still a long way to go. For this reason, exploring the Sassi district is a fascinating experience and it really does feel like the land time forgot, particularly at night. It's surprising how large some of the caves are and MUSMA is an atmospheric contemporary sculpture museum, occupying what was once the100 room Palazzo Pomarici, carved into the hillside. As you'd imagine, several rock churches are open to the public, complete with faded frescoes, and it's a dream film location - often doubling for Jerusalem in movies like Mel Gibson's Passion of Christ.
Craco
Unlike Matera, Craco is a town unlikely to get its 2000 people back. Landslips caused by deforestation, and a leaky water system, meant the town had to be abandoned in 1963, and it's still on the slide.
Guided visits are possible, but you'll need to don a hard hat and watch your step as you peer into houses that remain much as they were left. When you climb past the town's bakery, with tiled ovens still intact, up to the Castello tower at the top of the village, you get an awesome view of the ruins. Gazing at the remains of the San Nicola church, it's impossible not to feel moved.
Il Maggio di San Giuliano
It's not all doom and gloom. Basilicata's isolation means it's rich in tradition with festivals harking back to Pagan times. May is the time for an ancient fertility ritual, known as the Maggio, the marriage of the king and queen of the forest, in the mountain village of Accettura. On Ascension Day, the townsfolk split into two and set off at dawn in opposite directions, walking around 15km into the heart of the forest.
One lot cuts down a tall oak tree, known as the male or Maggio, and drags the 20m trunk back to the town with a team of 100 oxen. The others cut the sprouting top of a holly tree, the female or Cima, carry it back on their shoulders, stopping regularly, for fortifying slugs of wine. In theory the two teams are vying with each other to be first to town but, in reality, there's much eating, drinking and merry making on the way. It's a joyous occasion, each journey lasting most of the day, and there's music and dancing to keep them going.
Once both trees have been brought to the village, they're paraded round the streets and then stowed out of sight of each other. Two days later they come together in an amphitheatre specially constructed for the purpose, and the holly queen is jointed to the top of the oak king and the resulting 30m pole raised in the air by a system of pullies. It's meant to symbolise the marriage of male and female and supposedly guarantees a good harvest.
Around the same time, there's a procession from the church, led by the priest with bearers carrying the statue of San Giuliano, the patron saint of Accettura. In a perfect mixture of the sacred and the pagan, everyone gathers for mass and then the festivities begin, with local boys competing to scale the top of the super tree.
Metaponto
Finally I travel to the Ionian Coast to visit the ancient Greek settlement of Metapontum, founded around 700 BC, and the place where Pythagoras died. Metaponto, as it's now known, is a bustling seaside resort, but you can still see the foundations of the old city, as well as 15 columns of the temple, Tavole Paladine, dedicated to the Goddess Hera. The city took the side of Hannibal so was destroyed by the Romans and until recently was nothing but a Malarial swamp. These days it's got a new lease of life with holidaymakers discovering its miles of white sand beaches. It seems that Basilicata won't remain Italy's best kept secret for long.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker.]]>Planet Appetite: Bridging the Adriatic, Italy and Croatiatag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.33305392013-05-25T09:36:42-04:002013-05-28T05:34:39-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/For centuries the Adriatic has been a major highway and, for this reason, the Abruzzo and Le Marche regions of Italy share history, culture, tourism, arts and ancient crafts with Croatia. The EU "Adristorical Lands" project aims to highlight remarkable, but largely unknown attractions, on both sides of the Adriatic. I embark on a voyage of discovery.
Pescara
Pescara is my port of entry for the Adristorical Lands and it's only 15 minutes from the airport to the centre of town. This is a modern city, since much was destroyed during the Second World War, but there is a small historical section, nothing more than a couple of streets. The poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, an important if controversial figure, was born here, and his house has been preserved as a museum. He was active in politics and, after the First World War, set up his own independent city state in what is now the Croatian city of Rijeka. Italian forces finally booted him out in 1920 but not before he'd developed many of ideas and techniques of Italian fascism which later inspired Mussolini.
Abruzzo
Leaving the coast behind me, I drive inland and am soon rewarded by stunning views of the snow-capped Grand Sasso mountain peaks. This is a wild region, much of it national park, and fortified villages cling to the hillsides, some with little or no population.
Rocca Calascio is particularly impressive with a large fortress crowning the heights of the village and I enjoy an excellent lunch at Rifugio della Rocca. The owner has converted a handful of stone houses into rooms and it's an isolated, if beautiful, place to stay.
In the nearby village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, the entire village has been turned into a hotel, the brainchild of Daniele Kihlgren. He became so concerned about the loss of the Italian peasant tradition and their traditional architecture that he started buying up deserted settlements. Here, he's converted around 30 houses into hotel rooms and each has been thoroughly modernised with under floor heating and the latest plumbing to create a style best described as rustic chic. He even extends the idea to the hotel restaurant which serves up rare grains and authentic slow food on huge wooden tables. It's a unique experience, wandering the labyrinthine deserted alleys on your way to breakfast, and it gives you a sense of what life must have been like here.
In the north of Abruzzo is the rock fortress of Civitella del Tronto, the largest in Italy, and second largest in Europe. It was the last stand of the Bourbons, but rather sadly had to be handed over to the newly formed Kingdom of Italy in 1861 after Francis II surrendered. There are splendid views of the surrounding countryside, all the way to the sea, and it's well worth exploring the town below and eating at Zunica 1880, one of the region's best restaurants.
Le Marche
Crossing into Le Marche the scenery changes, mountains replaced by rolling green hills and villages by much larger settlements. Ascoli Piceno has a delightful historical centre built out of travertine, a local limestone, and the Renaissance Piazza del Popolo is among the most beautiful squares in Italy. There's much to explore here, including the Cathedral and the Palazzo dell'Arengo, housing the city's magnificent art collection. Also worth a visit is the beautifully restored theatre.
On a hill, just outside the town is the Borgio Storico Seghetti Panichi, an ancient medieval fortress, converted into a country residence in the 18th century, and now a boutique hotel. Each of the 11 suites is furnished with antique furniture and works of art and there are stunning views over the surrounding countryside. The family has been here since the 1750's and they make delightful hosts.
Slightly smaller than Ascoli is Offida, dating back to the stone age, and built entirely of Le Marche brick. It's famous for its lace and the local women can still be seen, sitting outside their houses with needle and thread. The most impressive monument is the church of St. Maria della Rocca, once a castle but donated to the Franciscan monks in 1039 . They incorporated an older church into the crypt and their new church occupies the first floor, with traces of the original frescoes still visible.
Contemporary artist Paolo Consorti has his studio nearby in San Benedetto del Tronto and he's happy to receive visitors. The walls are covered with examples of his work, an original combination of painting, photography, performance and digital film. His subject matter is sex, nature, politics and religion but don't let that put you off. In person he's a charming host and he'll even give you a tune on his piano.
Hvar, Croatia
There's a regular ferry service between Ancona and Split in Croatia, but you can also charter a small yacht to cross the Adriatic from Port San Giorgio. It's an overnight crossing of around 12 hours, and then you'll need to take another ferry to the island of Hvar. The town with the same name is a delightful Venetian port which attracts celebrities including Beyoncé, Tom Cruise and Prince Harry, although not all at the same time.
As well as the architecture you can also see the Italian influence in the food, and at Gariful they serve excellent seafood with interesting local wines from Andro Tomić. The Hotel Riva, right on the port, makes a comfortable base.
In the height of summer the town's many clubs churn out 24 hour music, so you might want to escape to Palmižana, on the small island of St. Klement. Only 30 minutes by boat, you enter the world of owner Dagmar Meneghello who has furnished the restaurant with her eclectic art collection. She sources fresh, healthy, naturally organic ingredients from the island's gardens and gets excellent seafood from the local fishermen. And, if you don't want to leave, she has a number of villas and bungalows for rent in the grounds
Other alternatives are the slightly sleepier, but no less attractive towns of Stari Grad, and Jelsa, both right on the Adriatic. For real isolation there's the semi-abandoned 18th-century shepherds' settlement of Humac, made up of tumbledown stone cottages, on a hilltop in the centre of the island. Here you'll find homemade wine, local meat and seafood and, since there's no electricity, everything is prepared over charcoal. Their speciality is Peka, a local variation of Lancashire Hotpot where meat and potatoes are slow cooked in an aluminium pan with the lid covered with ash. The place has been designated an Eco village and there are plans afoot to restore some of the houses and demonstrate traditional crafts.
In the week, I spend in Italy and Croatia I see many similarities and some differences. Without a doubt food and drink is very important in both countries and they share many of the same traditions. Architectural styles are similar too, partly as a result of past Venetian colonisation, and, if you close your ears to the different languages, you won't quite know where you are. The Adriatic is the common bond and, since it's so easy to cross, it makes sense to sample the culture of both countries in one trip - you get two for the price of one...
Adristorical Lands has information about the Adriatic project. Visit Abruzzo has tourist information about the region. Destinazione Marche has tourist information about the region. Le Marche Segrete has information about the artistic heritage of Le Marche region. Island Hvar has tourist information.
Paul Bradbury has written a guidebook to the island and has a useful website, Total Hvar.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker]]>Planet Appetite: Baking and Breaking Easter Bread at Thanos Hotels in Paphos, Cyprustag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.32382552013-05-15T02:47:54-04:002013-05-15T05:30:33-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Greek Orthodox Easter is not just a religious festival, but also a time for special food. Bread is particularly important and, in the kitchens of Thanos Hotels, I learn to bake these Easter delicacies.
As I leave my car at APH Parking Gatwick and hop on board the early morning Easyjet flight to Paphos I'm wondering what I'm letting myself in for. Cyprus has been making headlines recently with news of its economic crisis, and it will be interesting to see how they're coping. I'm thinking it's now a country of austerity, not really a place to visit unless you want to gloat. Actually I find that nothing could be further from the truth - one result of their troubles is that they're now going back to basics and rediscovering their roots.
There's a strong culinary heritage here and, increasingly, chefs are looking to feature local produce and devising menus of traditional Cypriot food. Ashley Goddard, the Executive chef at the Annabelle and Almyra hotels in Paphos, is even holding cooking courses in his kitchen, teaching how to bake speciality breads. Paul Hollywood, the British TV baker, spent 3 years here, so it's certainly a good place to start. When the sun's shining outside, with the blue Mediterranean beckoning, it takes commitment to devote a morning to cooking, but at least I can still see the sea.
Baskies and Flaounes
First up are Baskies, Easter pies unique to Cyprus, stuffed with cheese and meat. At this time of year lambs are slaughtered to celebrate Christ's resurrection, and chunks of the meat are slow cooked until they're tender. Feta and Halloumi cheeses are added along with raisins, eggs, fresh mint. The extra ingredients, mahlepi, made from ground cherry stones and gum mastic, a resin from Chios, make all the difference. You can leave out the lamb and then the cheese pies are called Flaounes, equally delicious.
Tyropites
If you're vegetarian then these cheese pies are for you. In the villages in Cyprus they still make their own Halloumi and it's a world away from the salty rubbery version we find in the UK. You mix it with Feta, eggs and fresh mint and wrap the mixture in parcels of dough, like giant samosas. Sesame seeds pepper the outside and they're baked for 45 minutes at 180 C.
Koulouria
First you make a dough with flour, butter, yeast, sugar, milk and ground mastic. After forming it into loaves, you make transverse cuts along the body, about a couple of centimetres apart, before reassembling and baking in the oven. This is a sweet bread for festive occasions, although it is eaten throughout the year.
Tsoureki
These Easter loaves have a special twist - you braid 3 strands of dough into plaits before dotting with sesame and baking it in the oven. Extra ingredients include cinnamon, mahlepi, mastic and raisins. The result is something like a French brioche with extra spice and certainly delicious.
I'm interested to see baking in a traditional setting so next day I travel north to the Kouyiouka watermill near the village of Yiolou. I've realised another secret ingredient of Cyprus bread is what they call "village flour" and I see here that they're still using water power to grind their grain.
They've also got excellent local olives and I watch as they're combined whole with fresh mint and then baked in a traditional oven. This is bread for the gods and I could gladly eat it all day.
They don't give lessons here so I head for the kitchens of the Anassa, another Thanos hotel, in Poli Crysochous. Here Christakis Christou (Chef Patissiere) teaches me not only how to make the olive bread, although his extra touch is to add sliced onions, but also a sun-dried tomato variation. My favourite though is Laganes, a flat loaf containing Halloumi cheese, sliced olives and cubed Lounza, cured Cypriot Ham.
Now man can't live on bread alone and over the next few days I get a better idea of what this Cyprus food revival amounts to. The country has always been a melting pot with influences from Africa, Asia and Europe and, since it's an island, boasts fantastic fresh seafood. As well as loaves and fishes, another miracle is the wine, although they can't yet make it out of water.
Until 15 years ago government policy was to uproot the traditional vines, bearing unique Cypriot grapes, and replace them with more well-known varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon. That's now changing and people like Andreas Kyriakides are now producing excellent wines. As I taste the latest vintages in his Vouni Panayia Winery and chew on local Halloumi, I begin to understand that there's method in the madness. As a result of the crisis, people are going back to their roots, sourcing food locally and dusting off traditional recipes. On the evidence of my visit, long may it continue.
Rates at the Annabelle start at £132 per person per night based on two people sharing (includes all taxes, service charges and buffet breakfast).
The 2 day bread making course at Annabelle will start in September 2013 and cost 90€ per person. It includes a welcome drinks reception at Flavours, Almyra, a chef's hat, an apron, a recipe folder, and 2 practical bread making lessons. For more information email here or call +3572688500.
EasyJet flies to Paphos from London Gatwick, Luton, Bristol, Manchester and Edinburgh. Flight prices start from £41.49 per person (one-way, including taxes based on two people on the same booking).
All picture copyright Rupert Parker.]]>Planet Appetite: Castles, Rivers, Vineyards and Foie Gras in the Dordogne, Francetag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.32578472013-05-11T04:52:32-04:002013-05-13T15:53:53-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/In this part of South West France you'll find fairy tale castles, perched precariously on limestone cliffs, overlooking the Dordogne River, and picturesque medieval villages, surrounded by forests, nestling at their feet.
The Dordogne, in South West France, has long been a magnet for British visitors and many have made their home here. It was one of the first areas of France to be discovered, partly because property was so cheap and the weather was better than at home. What this does mean is that English is widely spoken and there's a warm welcome everywhere. If you want to explore the area, you'll need a hire car from the airport at Bergerac but the three main towns are only around 50 kms apart so you won't need to do a lot of driving.
Sarlat makes a good place to start as its medieval and renaissance buildings, with their traditional facades and stone roofs, have all been completely restored. The Panoramic Elevator, a glass lift, inside the bell tower of the former Église Sainte-Marie, whisks you high above the rooftops to give you an overview of the town and you get a potted history of Sarlat as you go up. Right next to it is the covered market whose stalls spill out onto the square, and vendors offer tastings of Foie Gras, cheese, wine and nougat.
It makes you hungry and you're spoilt for choice with restaurants here. If you want to eat good food, with a great view, then drive to Les Jardins de Marqueyssac, which has a panorama over the Dordogne river with its castles of Fayrac , Beynac and Castelnaud and villages of Roque-Gageac and Domme. The gardens, themselves, were planted with 150,000 boxwoods in the 19th century and imaginative topiary has carved them into rounded shapes resembling green flocks of sheep. Peacocks display their multi-coloured tails here and there are over 6 kms of paths linking belvederes, waterways, and rockeries.
Down below, carved into the cliffs, is the village of La Roque-Gageac and you can take one of Les Gabares Norbert traditional wooden boats on the Dordogne. Dominating the landscape, the medieval castles are even more impressive seen from the water, particularly the Chateau de Castelnaud. Dating from the 13th century, this is the archetypal mediaeval fortress and houses a Museum of Medieval Warfare with one of the world's finest private collections of ancient weaponry. By the walls, outside, sit full size reconstructions of siege machines, and there are regular triggerings of the giant catapult as well as live cannon fire.
Perigueux, in the North, is the capital of the department and home to the Roman remains of Vesunna with the ruined Tour de Vésone still rising 85 feet in the air. Le Puy St-Front is the name of the medieval quarter and its crown jewel is the 5 white domes and colonnaded turrets of Saint-Front Cathedral. The Way of St James passes through here and it was a major stop for pilgrims as they journeyed to Santiago de Compestala, in Spain
Another holy place on the route is the Abbey of Brantome, known as the Venice of the Perigord because it's encircled by the river Dronne. It was founded in the 8th century by Charlemagne who donated the supposed relics of Saint Sicarius, one of the children massacred by Herod, and grew into a major religious centre. One of the oldest parts is the bell tower which dates from 11th century and is one of the oldest in France. Behind it, at the foot of the cliff, are the caves carved into the rocks, where the monks once lived and there's a spectacular carving of the last judgement.
Of course, the great joy in this part of France is the food and drink. Duck is king here, whether smoked or dried and the area is particularly famous for Foie Gras. If that's not to your taste, enjoy Confit de Canard, a long cooked duck leg, or a simple Pate, and other specialities include black truffles, walnuts and strawberries.
You might not have heard about the wines of the region but at only 50kms from Bordeaux, the Bergerac white is particularly good. An interesting day out is to visit the organic vineyard of Chateau Haut Garrigue where they'll explain their biodynamic techniques. Simply, everything they do is governed by the movements of the moon and other planets and they use homeopathic techniques on the vines. On offer is a delicious lunch, matching their wines with food so you can judge for yourself. They also allow you to blend your own wine and they'll then bottle it and you can take it away.
On my last day I visit the medieval village of Eymet, just outside Bergerac. This a Bastide, or "New Town", built in the Middle Ages to house the rural population and protect them in times of war. It's full of half-timbered houses linked by narrow alleys, laid out in a grid pattern round a central square. There's a market here twice a week and, in the summer, the tourist office sends out actors dressed in medieval costumes to waylay unsuspecting visitors. I'm thrust into a smock and floppy hat and they set to me work carving out a fleur-de-lys from stone. Suddenly I'm not just middle aged, I'm transported back to the French Middle Ages.
The 4 star Chateau des Vigiers is just 25 minutes from Bergerac Airport and has a 27 hole golf course and spa.
Flybe flies direct to Bergerac from various locations in the UK.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker]]>Planet Appetite: Sustainable Tourism in Catalonia, Spaintag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.31856892013-05-02T02:21:25-04:002013-05-03T08:33:27-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/
It's only about an hour's drive north of Barcelona before the hills start rising around you and you find yourself on the edge of the Pyrenees. This is a wild country, once heavily industrialised, but now the playground of Barceloni escaping their city for the weekend. They appreciate the value of their environment and, as a result, out of 19 Spanish EU Ecolabel certifications, 13 of them are in Catalonia.
Industrial Heritage
Catalonia was one of the first Mediterranean countries to be industrialised, reaching a peak in the first three decades of the 20th century. There were plentiful supplies of water, which originally powered the textile mills, then coal became the main source of energy. To feed this demand, mines in the North of the region mushroomed and workers flocked here from all over Spain. Company towns sprung up, where employees were housed and fed, but had very few rights.
The mines and factories were closed in the 1980's but some of these have been transformed into museums. The Colonia Cal Vidal, in Puig-reig, is a perfectly preserved workers' village, complete with school, library and cinema. You can visit the classrooms, see the apartments where they lived and get a tour of the factory, still with working machinery. It's a beautifully peaceful spot nowadays, and the surrounding forests have been regenerated, after being decimated by acid rain.
Another museum which is worth a visit is the Riutort Petrol Mine, home to a failed scheme to extract oil from the rocks. Entering a narrow tunnel in the side of the hillside, all is eerily dark, until the guide turns on the light, and leads you through the galleries. Tar still seeps from the walls, but today the mine is only home to bats and salamanders, as it proved too expensive to extract the oil.
Berga Berga is the tiny capital of Berguedà County, with only 14,000 inhabitants. Narrow alleys, surrounded by stone houses, lead upwards, giving stunning views over the surrounding countryside. The heart of the town is the Placa Sant Pere where every year, at Corpus Christi, the Patum festival is held.
Over five days,to the beat of the El Tabal drum, giant papier-mâché figures dance through the streets. The climax comes when all the town's lights are turned off, and people wearing a thousand firecrackers set them off in the square. Their performance lasts only five minutes but, during that time, the tiny space is transformed into Hell on Earth, brimming with fire. You need nerves of steel to take part.
A few kilometres above the town is the Sanctuary of Queralt, the end of the long distance Camí dels Bons Homes hiking trail from the Castle of Montsegur in France. This follows the escape route the Cathars took when they fled persecution from the Inquisition between the 12th century and 14th centuries. It's a tough eight day route over the Pyrenees but well worth the effort and can be done in either direction.
Natural Parc del Cadí-Moixeró
Heading north, you arrive at the Natural Parc del Cadí-Moixeró, and Guardiola de Berguedà makes a good base. Along with campsites, You've a choice of two green places to stay - Hotel Cal Duaner is a simple inn which takes its Eco responsibilities seriously and Molí del Casó, in Bagà, is an old mill converted into farmhouse. Their organic vegetable garden provides ingredients for the delicious meals prepared by chef Conxita Casseras who trained with Alain Ducasse. She also gives cooking lessons and you'll get to eat the food you make and wash it down with organic Catalan wine.
There are 453 kilometres of marked walking trails in the park, with the 2500m ascent of the twin peaks of Pedraforca a real challenge. If you don't feel up to this you can circuit the park on mountain bikes or go kayaking on the lakes and rivers. At the end of my trip, I'm suddenly reminded of the importance of sustainable tourism and why it's important to do our bit to combat climate change. I'm visiting Sant Jaume de Frontanyà, the smallest village in Catalonia, and suddenly it starts snowing in huge flakes. It's nearly May but I'm forced to take refuge in the majestic Romanesque church. Who said the rain in Spain stays mainly on the plain?
Club Emas has advice on sustainability and Eco-Management.]]>Planet Appetite: Springtime Hiking on the Mullerthal Trail in Luxembourgtag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.31446052013-04-25T03:55:32-04:002013-04-29T07:59:16-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Echternach is only 35 km from Luxembourg city and the three circuits that make up the Mullerthal Trail offer great hiking, particularly when your luggage is transported from hotel to hotel.
It's such an obvious idea - map out a series of walking trails, gather a group of relevant hoteliers together and get them to sign up to a blueprint for hiking. Along with the obvious things like a varied and healthy breakfast, they must provide drying and washing facilities for clothes and shoes, accept bookings for a minimum of one night, and transport your luggage to the next hotel for a small fee. Even better, some of them even allow you to create your own packed lunch from the breakfast buffet and supply tea or coffee for your thermos.
The Mullerthal Trail runs to more than 110 km of signed paths and comprises three circuits. The routes are all connected but can also be hiked separately. I'm here to explore Route 2 which passes through the heart of Luxemburg's Little Switzerland, with its distinctive rock formations, and then join Route 3 which follows a stream valley to the castle of Beaufort. It's only around half an hour from Luxembourg's spanking new airport to my first hotel, the Grand Hotel in Echternach. The rooms are particularly spacious and I notice there's a plastic tray where you can leave your muddy boots. Food here is spectacular and next morning I'm ready to hit the road, on a trail which the leaflet describes as challenging.
In fact the only tough part is the thick mud which coats the path as I trudge uphill but soon I arrive among the rocks and everything is dry. Huge boulders are scattered across the landscape, as though tossed by some angry giant, and the trail leads through narrow gaps through overhanging cliffs, aptly named the Labyrinth. This is Luxembourg's Little Switzerland and is quite unique.
I follow through the Wolfsschlucht, the wolf canyon, where legend has it these animals found shelter in former times, and continue along the Aesbach brook to reach Hohllay. The cave here was a source of millstones and you can still see where they were cut from the rocks. Close by is a natural amphitheatre, used for theatrical and music performances, and I pause here for a morning snack. The village of Berdorf is famous for its cheese but I push downhill through the Schnellert forest towards the village of Mullerthal which is the night's destination.
I'm ready for the excellent late lunch at Heringer Millen, and visit the mill, recently restored to grind its own flour, before dumping my pack at the Hotel Cigalon. A late afternoon stroll takes me up to the pretty waterfall of Schiessentumpel, and I'm now looking forward to dinner. The chef owner of the hotel, Philippe Stoque-Kunnert, is from the Auvergne and his food is excellent. Standouts include a ring of asparagus stuffed with smoked salmon and an excellent duck breast with mango and ginger.
It's a pleasant Sunday morning's walking along the Ernz Noir stream towards Beaufort, crossing the beautiful valley of Hallerbach. I climb gradually until I reach the Château of Beaufort, an impressive ruin, constructed between the 12th and 16th centuries. A visit also involves tasting their famous Cassero, a blackcurrant liqueur produced from fruit grown in the grounds. It makes an excellent aperitif before tucking into a plate of home-made Wurst at Auberge Rustique, just up the road. They also have rooms, just in case you want to linger.
Luxembourg is not somewhere you automatically think of as a gourmet walking destination, indeed it's a country made famous by a long gone radio station, rather than its natural beauty. It's also often dismissed as a tiny place hemmed in by Belgium, France and Germany, without its own identity. But, on the evidence of my ramblings, and copious consumption of its unique food and drink, hiking without luggage on the Mullerthal Trail is a pleasant way to spend a few days. The trails, across the wooded hills and valleys, supply enough excercise to guaranteee a healthy appetite in the excellent restaurants. Even better you can combine the walking with a city break in Luxembourg City and taste the best of both worlds.
Luxair flies direct from London City airport, 5 times a day, during the week and twice a day at weekends.
]]>Planet Appetite: Matching Beer and Cider Dinner at Galvin Café a Vin, in Spitalfields, Londontag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.31281142013-04-22T05:52:56-04:002013-04-23T11:50:49-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/The culmination of the Galvin Brothers first British beer week at Galvin Café a Vin is a five-course dinner matching beers and ciders with dishes from chef Jack Boast - an interesting experiment but can it really succeed?
Tasting menus, where wines are paired with gourmet dishes, are all the rage in restaurants throughout the world, but this is the first time I've been to a dinner with matched beers and ciders. Yes, of course I've drank copious amounts of ale with food in the past, but a different beer with each course is something new. What's more we're being introduced to each tipple by Mitch Adams, the imaginative landlord of the Thatchers Arms, who's made his selection from small British producers.
I arrive at the Galvin Café a Vin and a glass of what I take to be champagne is immediately thrust in my hand. Of course it's Aspall Cuvée Chevalier cider, with enough bubbles to fool me, and pleasantly refreshing after my cycle ride. There's a tiny piece of pizza, topped with smoked eel and cheese, to go with it and I realise that chef Jack Boast knows what he's doing.
Now it's time for the first beer and Mitch Adams gets up to introduce Scarlet Fever from the Wild Beer Company, a hoppy red ale which will go with the beef tartare which arrives in front of me. Now I know that in Prague, this mix of beer and raw meat is a popular favourite and so it proves here. The crisp citrus flavour of the US hops is an excellent counter to the creaminess of the beef and the English malts add a background of caramel.
Mitch stands up again to talk about Bliss, from the same company, a Belgian style beer with wild yeast, added roasted apricots and a mix of cardoman and kaffir lime leaves. On the nose, you can really pick out the spices and it really does smell like ginger beer, although the taste is more apricot. The spiced marinated grilled quail is delicious on its own, but the accompanying toasted barley and raison salad is a better match.
Next up is a beignet of scallop and smoked salmon served with Gribiche sauce. The beer is a Mosaic Pale Ale from the Kernel Brewery , slightly cloudy, with an aroma of red grapefruit. This is so fruity that I think the scallops are in danger of being overwhelmed but the small morsels of smoked salmon inside the fritter are an effective counter. Indeed, the remaining smoked eel proves to be an even better match.
Now we come to what I think is the marriage made in heaven. The Wild Beer Company's Modus Operandi has been aged in oak barrels with wild yeast for over 90 days. It's a dark beer with a smooth, rich, full body and fruit flavours of berries, sweet cherries with tannins from the wood.
The slow cooked neck of spring lamb with diced potatoes and leeks is its ideal partner, better than any wine. Indeed it's not so surprising as a pint of mild served with meat and potatoes is what my old grandad would have for his lunch.
The final course is Jack Boast's famous tarte tatin and now we're back in cider territory. This time it's from Once Upon a Tree and is a dessert pear wine called The Wonder, vintage 2009. Using techniques borrowed from ice wine, with an alcohol content of 12%, it's a mix of conference and comice varieties and made nowhere else in the world. There are hints of apricot, quince and melon each fruit perfectly complementing the sweetness of the apple in the tatin.
Mitch has a final surprise and produces Wildebeest, a Russian imperial stout, with a twist, from the Wild Beer Company. Valrhona chocolate, vanilla pods, coffee beans, have all been added to create what they describe as an Imperial Espresso Chocolate Vanilla Stout. The aroma is Kahlua or Tia Maria and, sipping it with a chocolate truffle, seems like logical conclusion to a very informative evening. Congratulations to sommelier Andrea, Jack and Mitch.
I have to confess I was slightly sceptical that beer could deliver the same imaginative pairings that are usually the role of fine wines. After all copious consumption of the stuff is something you do in the pub, rather than in a gourmet restaurant, and serving it in wine glasses, rather than pints, is the height of pretension. Fortunately I was completely wrong and I look forward to the next tasting, particularly when the food is this good and the beers are so distinctive.
Drink Britain has more information about the beers and ciders.]]>Planet Appetite: Peixe em Lisboa - Fish and Flavours Festival, Lisbon, Portugaltag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.30867822013-04-17T01:28:11-04:002013-06-16T05:12:01-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Now in its 6th year, Peixe em Lisboa takes place over 10 days, with cooking classes, wine pairings, chef demonstrations and tasting dishes provided by top Portuguese restaurants.
Lisbon is one of the few European capitals situated close to the sea and therefore it's fitting that fish is a big deal here. Apparently in Portugal alone, there are said to be over 1000 recipes for Bacalhau, the dried cod which the locals seem so fond of. I must say that the city, tumbling down seven hills, doesn't disappoint and on every corner there seems to be a restaurant or bar, although it's wise to avoid the touts offering dinner and Fado - food is often substandard and the music not much better.
Prices are incredibly reasonable with many places offering rock bottom meals with wine for around 7€. It reminds me of how French restaurants used to be, where mum did the cooking and dad looked after front of house. I hear that these tabernas are now under threat because taxes are sky high but the ones I sample are outstanding, and cheap as chips - and what's more they're made from real potatoes, not the frozen variety. Fried liver with a gravy made of white wine and scraped spleen is a particular hit.
Peixe em Lisboa is a bit of a cross between Madrid Fusion and Taste of London with a gourmet market selling cheeses, jams, olive oils, sausages, sweets and wine. Unfortunately the cooking classes are all in Portuguese which rules me out, but the chef demos do have headphone translation. I'm heartened to see that they're avoiding the Spanish fad of creating pictures on a plate, but there's still ample use of tweezers and flowers.
Fortunately there's a fashion for rediscovering their roots and Bertílio Gomes, from Lisbon's Chapitô à Mesa, is using red carrots from the Algarve. They're not as sweet as the orange variety, and apparently were a staple 60 years ago but now have almost completely disappeared. He also marinates his black olives in salt and garlic for a few days, a technique he learnt from his grandmother.
I'm now hungry and set out on my mission to taste the dishes. You buy tokens for the restaurants, at 5€ or 8€, and the princely sum of €1.50 gets you a huge glass of excellent Portuguese wine.
Standouts include a sardine pie adorned with cod roe, smoked skewered eel with barbecue sauce, excellent sushi and sashimi and semi-raw tuna with ginger and miso. What I can't resist, though, are the bundles of razor clams, warmed just enough to open and I devour a plateful every day I'm there.
Other gourmet events are also occurring in the city including "Young Chefs with Guts". It's not the name of a dish but rather a wizard idea where sous chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants take turns to prepare 11 courses. Of course they can cook as well as their masters and it doesn't disappoint although it's bit of a long day's journey into the next morning. The standout dishes are the work of Leandro Carreira, all the way from Nuno Mendes's Viajante in Bethnal Green. I particular enjoyed his Goose Barnacle with Sea Lettuce and an Amuse Bouche of scrambled egg with sea urchin was sensational.
It's well worth planning a trip to Lisbon next April when the 7th Peixe em Lisboa is taking place. If you can't wait until then, Luis Buena is opening his Notting Hill Kitchen in the coming months and we'll all get a chance to taste what Portuguese food can deliver. Now I've been there and spilled my dinner down my tee shirt, I can definitely recommend it.
The Mercy Hotel, in the Bairro Alto, makes a good base.
Visit Portugal has tourist information about the country.]]>Planet Appetite: Mercy Hotel - Elevated Boutique Luxury in Lisbon, Portugaltag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.30838442013-04-15T07:49:01-04:002013-06-15T05:12:02-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Situated in a premium location between Lisbon's Chiado and Bairro Alto districts, the Mercy Hotel's 47 rooms are designed by renowned Portuguese architect Miguel Sarraiva.
The great joy of Lisbon is that you can stay in the heart of the city and walk everywhere, that's if you have the stamina to tackle the seven hills that it's built on. It's also a bit of a climb to the Mercy Hotel, converted from an historic building, halfway between the Chiado and Bairro Alto districts, but it's well worth it. Anyway you can always get a taxi, as fares are cheap here, but once you've dumped your case, then you're in a prime location to explore.
Each of the Mercy's 47 rooms is named after Portuguese cultural icons, but the interiors are completely modern, painted in sleek, neutral palettes with dark wood furnishings. I'm lucky to have a suite on the 6th floor and your really do feel on top of the world here. From my balcony I have panoramic views across the city to the Tagus Bridge and the Bairro Alto. If you can't stretch to the suite you can still enjoy the same stunning views from the Belvedere Terrace.
I have to say that they get everything right here in the rooms, with crisp white linens, comfortable pillows, power shower, even a shaving mirror to magnify your imperfections. Better, service is impeccable with friendly staff greeting you by name, as you pass by reception, and a turn-down team second to none. I also like the way breakfast happens, with an individual buffet tray served at your table with a selection of cheeses and cold meats. There's a choice of eggs, and best freshly squeezed local orange juice.
And if you're feeling peckish, the Umai Restaurant serves up a mixture of Asian delicacies with a Portuguese twist. Chef Paulo Morais is one of the masters of Japanese cuisine in Portugal and I must say, I can't fault his sushi and sashimi. Other dishes draw their inspiration from Indian, Vietnamese, Thai and even Himalayan cuisine and I can heartily recommend his tasting menu, a snip at a mere 35 Euros.
Lisbon is a great city for a weekend break and its position by the sea guarantees excellent fresh fish, as well as ocean breezes to cool you down in the height of summer. You can spend days wandering the twisting narrow alleys, that give the place its unique character, and the Mercy Hotel makes an extremely comfortable base to recover from all the exploring. Actually you could just make a special trip to indulge in its luxury - this is certainly the happening place to stay in Lisboa.
]]>Planet Appetite: Stars, Food & Art Gourmet Charity Event at The Balcon, Sofitel London St Jamestag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.29330182013-03-22T11:54:47-04:002013-05-22T05:12:01-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/Four chefs, Raymond Blanc, Christophe Muller, Michael Moore and Guy Krenzer, with five Michelin stars between them, each prepare a course, complemented by wines selected by Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
This event, Stars, Food and Art, has been held in various countries since 2007 but it's the first time it's come to London. I arrive at the Sofitel London St James to find a glass of Moet Vintage 2004 thrust into my hand by a classily dressed waitress with an elaborate beehive hairstyle. Indeed all the waitresses seem to have visited the hairdressers and they're also bearing exotic canapés. The art part of the evening is displayed on the walls and the event is being held in aid of The Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia - Friends in the UK.
Dinner is announced and we all troop through to The Balcon dining room and take our places. Raymond Blanc has prepared the first course and he introduces his confit of salmon with cucumber and wasabi. Apparently the fish has been cooked at low temperature, around 40 degrees C, and it's moist and succulent. There's a dollop of caviar on the top, and it rests on a bed of cucumber with some squirts of wasabi on the side. Nothing to overpower the fish and the Réserve Mouton Cadet Graves Blanc 2011 matches it perfectly.
Next up is Christophe Muller of L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges where his boss is Paul Bocuse. He brings greetings from "Monsieur Paul" and explains that the lobster we are having is one of his classic recipes. It's been poached in Poully Fuissé which has half set into a glaze and is accompanied by a celeriac puree scented with ginger.
I must say this is the hit of the night and it's rare to savour such complex cooking. The Aile d'Argent 2008, Vin Blanc de Château Mouton Rothchild is also a good choice.
It's fitting, given that Australia is a beneficiary of this event that Michael Moore should have flown all the way here with his sous chef. Although he's originally from the UK, he now cooks at the O Bar and Dining, 47 floors above the Sydney streets.
He's created what he calls a Black Dish with Angus short rib and fillet with black quinoa, black garlic, black salt, treacle and chia seeds. The fillet is rare and contrasts well with the long cooked rib, which melts in the mouth. The red is a particularly special Château Mouton Rothschild 1999, which seems to open up in the glass.
There's a slightly underwhelming cheese plate to follow, with a reserve Mouton Cadet Sauternes 2010, but soon we're being served Guy Krenzer's dessert which certainly doesn't disappoint. He describes it as dulce de leche, citrus granita and sabaillon and it's a sort of caramel on custard with crunchy bits and pretty good too.
There's a nice touch with the granita, as it's frozen inside a hollowed out orange, and makes a fitting ending to an excellent meal. Service was excellent throughout and congratulations to everyone in the kitchen for making this work so well. I will be back to visit The Balcon Restaurant when the kichens are less hectic - they seem to know what they are doing, and the dining room makes it a memorable dining experience.
All pictures copyright Rupert Parker.]]>Planet Appetite: England's Haunted Hotspots and Horrid Historiestag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.29000582013-03-18T09:42:53-04:002013-05-18T05:12:01-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/
My destination is Oxford Castle, just an hour out of London. It was built in 1071 AD by order of William the Conqueror shortly after the Norman conquest of England. What remains of the original castle today is the mound or 'motte' and St. George's Tower, possibly part of the original Saxon defences built some 20 years before the Normans arrived. This could be the oldest secular structure in England and, at its base, is a medieval crypt used for teaching students, a century before the university was established.
I check in to the Malmaison Hotel which is itself a rather clever conversion of Oxford Prison which was only closed in 1996.
I'm about to join the Haunted Happenings team who will take me into the castle at the dead of night. Wayne is in charge and he's brought along a medium, Craig, who will keep an eye on the spirit world. Together they've got almost 10 years' experience in the ghost hunting business - "seen 'em, smelt 'em and felt 'em", and emphasise that we should show some respect and shouldn't be too negative. They say that their job is to help us have a paranormal experience and we shouldn't be afraid.
It's a very cold night and even colder inside the tower as we make our way down the steps to the crypt. We've already been issued with metal dowsing rods and taught to ask questions of the spirits, but mine seem determined not to respond. No matter, next we've formed a circle around one of the pillars and are standing in the pitch black, at the base of the tower. Wayne is asking for a sign - "make a noise, switch the torches on and off, touch someone's shoulder", but there's no response. Craig picks up some activity and tells us of the arrival of an old man, called Harry, but he's not making himself known to us. Later there's a female ghost and a shadowy figure in a white Tabard wearing a long sword, but neither of them are keen to communicate.
After a short coffee break, Wayne gets out the Ouija boards and we troop back into the tower and rest our index fingers on the glass. Standing stock still, in this position, is a bit hard on the back but despite our efforts, there's no movement at all. I'm beginning to dream of a warming glass, back at the hotel, full of a different sort of spirit.
We try again forming a circle, but apart from a false alarm, caused by a lit torch in a pocket, and a claim that a cold draught wafted over someone's face, we draw a blank. It's after midnight and Wayne decides to call it a night. The fact that we haven't really experienced the paranormal doesn't really disconcert him - "It just proves that we don't cheat". I suppose it's better luck next time...
England's Top Haunted Hotspots
Jack the Ripper - East London
Try a Jack the Ripper walking tour of Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane. Or go to the new London Dungeons to see a recreation of the Ten Bells pub.
The Pendle Witches - Lancashire
Walk the Lancashire witches trail, which starts in the shadow of Pendle Hill and follows the route the witches took through the Ribble Valley to Lancaster Castle where they stood trial.
Tudor Terror at The Tower of London
The Tower of London is an iconic London landmark with beefeaters, ravens and a gruesome history, particularly during Tudor times. Send yourself to the Tower and see the world-famous Crown Jewels, try on a genuine suit of armour and learn about the legendary black ravens.
The Most Haunted City in the UK - Derby
Derby is famous for England's final hanging, drawing and quartering. Join a guided ghost walk of the city or hold an overnight vigil in 18th century prison Derby Gaol.
The Most Haunted Building in the UK - Galleries of Justice, Nottingham
The Galleries of Justice tell some of the sinister stories behind the city's own outlaws. Take a ghost tour to be led around the haunted corridors, cells and dungeons.
Never-seen-before Haunted Rooms at Warwick Castle
This medieval castle has a ghastly past which haunts it to this day. In February the castle opened up the Barbican Battlements & Captain's Room, Bear Tower, Watergate Room and The Guards' Room.
Anne Boleyn and Her Headless Horses at Blickling Hall, Norfolk
This 16th century estate near Aylsham in north Norfolk, is believed to be haunted by the ghost of Anne Boleyn. She appears every year on 19th May, the anniversary of her execution.
Frozen Witch in the Wookey Caves, Somerset
Legend has it that during the Dark Ages, an old woman lived alone deep in the caverns of the Wookey Caves in Somerset. Her frozen figure remains in this cavern, known as The Witch's Kitchen. Or you can see her original skeleton at Somerset's Wells & Mendip Museum.
The Volunteer, Baker Street, London Built inside the shell of a burnt-out 17th century mansion, the cellars of this pub are reputedly haunted by the ghost of Richard Neville, wearing a surcoat, breeches and fancy stockings.
All picture copyright Rupert Parker]]>Planet Appetite: Unspoilt Caribbean Cool in St. Kitts, Leeward Islands, West Indiestag:www.huffingtonpost.com,2013:/theblog//3.28536372013-03-12T04:10:38-04:002013-05-11T05:12:01-04:00Rupert Parkerhttp://www.huffingtonpost.com/rupert-parker/St. Kitts is one of the smallest of the Caribbean islands but has a huge amount to offer, including palm fringed beaches and volcano hiking.
"Focus on the trail, guys" says O'Neil Mulraine who is guiding us to the top of the dormant volcano, Mount Liamiuga, or Mount Misery as it used to be called. I can see how it gets its name, as O'Neil pushes us on though the rain forest, climbing up through 2000 feet. He tells us stories of women "carrying a little weight" who weren't able to make it and, indeed, we meet a few cruise ship refugees on the way up, who've decided that they can't go any further. After a couple of hours, I'm staring down into the sulphurous lake, perched on the crater's rim, and decide the effort has been worthwhile.
St. Kitts is part of the Leeward Islands in the West Indies which also includes Antigua, Barbuda, the British Virgin Islands, Montserrat, Nevis, Anguilla and Dominica.
It's not exactly large, with a population of around 48,000, and it's a short 32 mile drive round the island. The neighbouring island of Nevis, even smaller, also forms part of the Federation and they both gained their independence from the British in 1983. Sugar ceased to be grown here in 2005 and it's now tourism which is the main source of income.
Tourism
Surprisingly, apart from cruise ships which dock in Basseterre, and only stay for the day, the island seems largely untouched by tourists. True, the area around Frigate Bay has a large Marriott Resort, but it's the only branded hotel on the island.
Timothy Beach is good value and faces the Caribbean but perhaps the most refined accommodation is found at Ottley's Plantation Inn. Situated in 35 unspoilt acres, sprawling across the hillside, this restored 18th century sugar plantation gives you a sublime glimpse of colonial style.
Kittitians are a laid back bunch, and even in the capital, there's nobody asking you for money or hustling you to buy things.
Photogenic pastel coloured rickety shacks, with tin roofs, dot the countryside and you're never far from a beach bar where you can sample a Ting with a Sting - fizzy grapefruit juice with a dash of rum. I must say that I feel completely safe wherever I go.
Scenic Railway
One way to get an overview of the island is to take the St. Kitts Scenic Railway. This narrow gauge line, the only one in the Caribbean, was built to transport sugar cane between 1912 and 1926. It's now been restored with carriages from Seattle and, ironically, an engine from Poland, originally used to move sugar beet. It doesn't yet make a complete circuit, but a coach, or catamaran takes you round the rest. Of course, no trip would be complete without refreshments on board, usually containing rum, and there's a memorable three strong Acappella group who serenade you singing "St. Kitts Scenic Railway - going to have a blast!"
Brimstone Hill
In an early part of its history, St. Kitts was divided between great rivals, the French and British. Some say that monkeys were introduced by the French to plunder the British market gardens and the Brit response was to build a fortress on Brimstone Hill to fire on their neighbours.
In its heyday, it was known as the "Gibraltar of the West Indies" and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a monument to the ingenuity of the engineers who designed it and the strength and endurance of the African slaves who built it. It's all been immaculately restored and there are stunning views across the Caribbean to the Dutch islands of Saba and Statia.
Sunday
It's not exactly a tourist attraction, but Sunday on St. Kitts is taken very seriously indeed. I don't normally go to church, but I can't resist an invite to the People's Evangelical Church in Needs Must, on the outskirts of Basseterre.
My friend tells me that it's a "happy clappy" service and I can't disagree. Drum, bass and organ provides accompaniment for the singing with the words displayed on large screen. We're made especially welcome so there's no excuse not to join in, although I decide not to get involved in the dancing. The sermon is titled "Functioning Against the Odds", a quality that might be more useful in London than in this beautiful island.
]]>
]]>
