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Hey You in the Headdress, Know What it Means?

Posted: 02/10/2012 7:31 am

tânisi!

I see you are confused about what constitutes cultural appropriation. I would like to provide you with resources and information on the subject so that you can better understand what our concerns are.

However, I also want you to have a brief summary of some of the more salient points so that you do not assume you are merely being called a racist, and so that I do not become frustrated with your defensive refusal to discuss the topic on those grounds.

If at all possible, I'd like you to read the statements on this bingo card. If any of those ideas have started whirling through your head, please lock them in a box while you read this article. They tend to interfere with the ability to have a respectful conversation.

Restricted Symbols

  • In some cultures, some items are off-limits. Examples from Canada and the United States would be: military medals, Bachelor degrees (the actual diploma), and certain awards representing achievement in literature, music, or other fields.
  • These items cannot be legitimately possessed or reproduced by just anyone, as they represent achievements earned according to a specific criteria.
  • Yes, some people will mock these symbols. However in order to do this, they have to understand what the symbols represent, and then purposefully desecrate or alter them in order to make a statement. They cannot then claim to be honouring the symbol.
  • Some people will pretend to have earned these symbols, but there can be serious sanctions within a culture for doing this. For example, someone claiming to have earned a medical degree (using a fake diploma) can face criminal charges, because that 'symbol' gives them access to a specialised and restricted profession.


Unrestricted Symbols/Items

  • Other items are non-restricted. Flags, most clothing, food etc. Accessing these things does not mean that you have reached some special achievement, and you are generally free to use these.
  • If you do not use these items to mock, denigrate or perpetuate cultural stereotypes, then you can legitimately claim to be honouring those items.

Headdresses in Native Cultures

For the most part, headdresses are restricted items. In particular, the headdress worn by most non-natives imitate those worn by various Plains nations. These headdresses are further restricted within the cultures to men who have done certain things to earn them. It is very rare for women in Plains cultures to wear these headdresses, and their ability to do so is, again, quite restricted.

So unless you are a native male from a Plains nation who has earned a headdress, or you have been given permission to wear one (sort of like being presented with an honorary degree), then you will have a very difficult time making a case for how wearing one is anything but disrespectful, now that you know these things. If you choose to be disrespectful, please do not be surprised when people are offended...regardless of why you think you are entitled to do this.

Even if you have "native friends' or are part native yourself, individual choices to "not be offended" do not trump our collective rights as a people to define our symbols.

Celebrate Don't Appropriate

It is okay to find our stuff beautiful, because it is. It is okay to admire our culture. However I then think it is reasonable to ask that if you admire a culture, you should learn more about it. Especially when the details are so much more fascinating than say, outdated stereotypes.

You do not have to be an expert on our culture to have access to certain aspects of it. If you aren't sure if something is restricted or not, please ask someone who is from that culture. If people from within that culture tell you that what you are doing is disrespectful, dismissing their concerns because you just don't agree is not indicative of admiration.

If you really, really want to wear beaded moccasins or mukluks or buy beautiful native art, then please do! There are legitimate and unrestricted items crafted and sold by aboriginal peoples that we would be more than happy to see you own. Then all the disrespectful stereotyping and denigration of restricted symbols can be avoided, while still allowing you to be decked out in beautiful native-created fashion.

If you are an artist who just loves working with aboriginal images, then please try to ensure your work is authentic and does not incorporate restricted symbols (or perpetuate stereotypes). For example, painting a non-native woman in a Plains culture warbonnet is just as disrespectful as wearing one of these headdresses in real life. Painting a picture from an archival or modern photo of a real native person in a warbonnet, or in regalia, or in 'street' clothes is acceptable. Acknowledging from which specific nation the images you are using come from is even better. "Native American" or "Indian" are too vague.

Miyo-Wîchêtowin, Living Together in Harmony

It's okay to make mistakes. Maybe you had no idea about any of this stuff. The classiest thing you can do is admit you didn't know, and maybe even apologise if you find you were doing something disrespectful. In my opinion, a simple acknowledgement of the situation is pure gold. It diffuses tension and makes people feel that they have been heard, respected, and understood.

If you make this kind of acknowledgement on the condition that people who bring the it to your attention do it "nicely," then there's a problem. The reality is that this issue gets people very upset. It's okay to get heated about it on your end as well, and maybe bad words will fly back and forth. My hope is that once you cool down, you will understand that what is being asked of you is not unreasonable.

Remember that bingo card above? It demonstrates how not to go about the issue. You and I both know this problem is not the end of the world. But it is an obstacle on the path to mutual respect and understanding.

Thanks for listening.

êkosi

A longer version of this article was originally posted on the author's blog, âpihtawikosisân.

 
 
 
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02:00 PM on 03/25/2012
I don't know if you know this but headdresses were not prevalent until the white man came through with collodion photography. Before that there were a very few select tribes who used them.
Some of the most famous collodion images of native americans were done with the help of a set of props the photographer brought with him to make the subject seem "more Indian." Then in the 1800's the tourist industry made it imperative that the people with the money though they were seeing "real indians."

This is akin to a kilt. People think their family had their own pattern they can order, and well they can; BUT the fact is clan identification didn't happen until 1822, and many of the clan patterns available today have only been around a few decades. The tartan itself does have a long and important history, and the Scots could rightly claim it is a sacred item and people shouldn't be messing with it. They don't.

If i photograph a redhead in a kilt is that wrong?

The way the headdress, war bonnets, are used in Native American culture today is far different then it was in the past. I see nothing wrong with co opting them for fashion, any more than kilts were co opted by Christian schools or berets by 1960's hipsters, or sailors bell bottoms being made into jeans.

Heck you can even buy a cassock coat, wouldn't you think that might be sacred to some people?
11:27 PM on 02/10/2012
I wish we could make fun of other cultures in the same way that my people are exploited. For example, we could have sports teams named after the Jews, the Blacks, the Mexicans, the Asians, the Catholics, etc. A football team could have a picture of a stingy Jew on their uniforms, an aunt Jemima for a mascot, someone running out on the field dressed up as a taco, samurai or a priest. Let's make fun of everyone equally. If we could do that, others would know how we feel.
12:25 PM on 02/10/2012
While I am inclined to agree in principle, I have to wonder how much traction the idea that some symbols are restricted even in artwork is going to get in this day and age. Witness all the controversy surrounding the publication of depictions of Muhammed. Many people argue that such depictions should be published precisely because they are offensive. I am not sure what would make any restrictions on depictions of indigenous symbols immune to this sort of criticism.
Donna Meness
www.findmaisyandshannon.com
08:37 AM on 02/10/2012
Hipsters in Headdresses

Racism is supposed to be dying out, but the Dudesons (ICI #193) are part of a growing trend. Namely, youngsters who flaunt Native stereotypes to prove how cool they are. Here are some recent examples of this cultural (mis)appropriation:

T-shirts with Indian death images:

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/indian-skulls-in-headdresses.html
Indian skulls in headdresses

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/t-shirt-shows-skull-in-headdress.html
T-shirt shows skull in headdress

Hipsters in tribal headdresses and fashions:

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/yale-grads-wear-silly-headdresses.html
Yale grads wear "silly" headdresses

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/honor-of-plains-chief.html
The "honor" of a Plains chief

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/cartoon-are-best-strippers.html
Cartoon: Natives are best strippers

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/indian-headdresses-in-bay-to-breakers.html
Indian headdresses in Bay to Breakers run

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/05/white-girls-play-indian-at-powwow.html
White girls play Indian at powwow

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/04/why-hipster-headdresses-arent-okay.html
Why hipster headdresses aren't okay

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/04/indian-headdresses-at-coachella.htm
Indian headdresses at Coachella

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/04/sight-for-squaw-eyes.htm
"A sight for squaw eyes"

http://newspaperrock.bluecorncomics.com/2010/04/coyote-headdress-and-other-tribal.htm
Coyote headdress and other tribal fashions

Rob Schmidt
Blue Corn Comics
Donna Meness
www.findmaisyandshannon.com
08:34 AM on 02/10/2012
Backgrounder:

In 1988, the Lubicon Lake Cree organized a boycott of The Spirit Sings, the cultural showcase of the Winter Olympics in Calgary. Museums were asked not to lend objects for the display, and many people, Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal, refused to attend. The boycott did a great deal to raise awareness of the issues, and as a result of the conflict, the Assembly ofFirst Nations (AFN) and the Canadian Museums Association (CMA) formed a task force with a mandate to “develop an ethical framework and strategies for Aboriginal Nations to represent their history and culture in concert with cultural institutions”.
Donna Meness
www.findmaisyandshannon.com
08:34 AM on 02/10/2012
The Intellectual Property Issues in Cultural Heritage (IPinCH) project is an international research initiative to explore and facilitate fair and equitable exchanges of knowledge relating to archaeology. The project is directed by Dr. George P. Nicholas (Simon Fraser University), co-developed with Julie Hollowell (Indiana University) and Kelly Bannister (University of Victoria) and is funded by Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada's (SSHRC) major collaborative research initiatives (MCRI) program. A team of 50 scholars and 25 partnering organizations is concerned with the theoretical, ethical, and practical implications of commodification, appropriation, and other flows of knowledge about the past, and with how these may affect communities, researchers, and other stakeholders.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intellectual_Property_Issues_in_Cultural_Heritage_project

more info?
http://web.ubc.ca/okanagan/ccgs/faculty/younging.html
http://cgi.sfu.ca/~ipinch/cgi-bin/
http://blog.aaanet.org/2009/08/12/intellectual-property-issues-in-cultural-heritage-project/
http://www.discovercalgary.com/Calgary/Departments/FirstImpressions/
Donna Meness
www.findmaisyandshannon.com
08:33 AM on 02/10/2012
This report considers the disposition of Aboriginal cultural patrimony,
including human remains, burial objects, sacred and ceremonial objects
and other cultural objects that have ongoing historical, traditional or cultural
import to an Aboriginal community or culture. The Canadian Museums
Association and the Assembly of First Nations should endorse and
encourage the adoption of the following guidelines relating to the
repatriation of Aboriginal cultural patrimony:

The treatment, use, presentation and disposition of sacred and ceremonial
objects and any other objects of cultural patrimony should be decided on
moral and ethical grounds with the full involvement of the appropriate First
Nations as equal partners. In the event of disputes between individuals,
between an individual and the community or between communities, the
onus should be on the First Peoples to resolve the dispute according to
customary practice.
Recommended options for this process include the following:
(i) Restitution or Reversion.
(ii) Transfer of Title.
(iii) Loan of Materials
(iv) Replication of Materials
(iv) Replication of Materials

* Report of the Task Force on Museums and First Peoples (Ottawa:
AFN & CMA,1992)
Donna Meness
www.findmaisyandshannon.com
08:32 AM on 02/10/2012
RCAP/CHAPTER 6:

1.2 Sacred and Secular Artifacts
Aboriginal people are seeking the return of artifacts held by museums and
collectors as one way of reasserting control over how their cultures are
depicted. These objects are the physical records of history and the physical
manifestations of culture. They help define Aboriginal identity:
Traditionally, Aboriginal cultural knowledge is transmitted and documented
primarily through the oral tradition, but also through such things as dramatic
productions, dance performances, and they are documented on such
artifacts as wampum belts, birch bark scrolls, totem poles, petroglyphs and
masks. This is the Aboriginal way of transmitting knowledge and of
recording information and history.
Greg Young-Ing
Vancouver, British Columbia, 4 June 1993

Items taken from Aboriginal people and communities over the years may be
secular or sacred. Secular objects might include tools, hunting equipment
and clothing — articles of everyday use. Some objects have sacred
significance, such as medicine bundles, which contain objects associated
with visions and are opened only on ceremonial occasions.

RCAP report/ Vol.3 /Chapter 6 /Appendix 6A: Excerpts from Turning the Page:Forging New Partnerships Between Museums and
First Peoples*

I worked this conference when I was at Indian gov't - held at Carleton U ..grin