A lot of attention has been drawn to the native fashion trend in the past year or so. From violations of the Navajo trademark, to No Doubt and Victoria's Secret experiencing a long-overdue backlash to the all-too common misuse of Plains warbonnets, the issues surrounding "native-inspired" fashion are being talked about on a wider scale.
What a lot of people are asking is, "If we love native fashion, where can we get it without engaging in cultural appropriation?"
Jessica Metcalfe (Turtle Mountain Chippewa) has been answering that question for quite some time on her blog, Beyond Buckskin. What's even more awesome is she launched the Beyond Buckskin Boutique which gives you instant access to legitimate native fashion, from haute couture to streetwear, modern and traditional.
The internet has provided native designers with a fantastic way of tapping into the extraordinary hunger for "Native American" fashion, and perhaps even more importantly, allow those of us who are fighting against cultural appropriation to offer some concrete alternatives to those who just really, really want this stuff.
That's what the "Buy Native" campaign recently launched by Metcalfe is aiming for. She provides a list of native run online stores you can access right now to meet all your native fashion needs.
In a recent article, Jessica Metcalfe was asked how launching a "native fashion" boutique is any different than what Urban Outfitters and so many other companies are doing. I think her response is well worth quoting here:
- I work with Native American artists -- folks who are active members of Native communities.
- These artists are exceptionally talented.
- They are also very knowledgeable and smart about their cultures and cultural values and know which items (i.e. sacred items) are off-limits and shouldn't be sold.
- They know how to translate the artistic traditions of their Native communities to be shared by people from ALL backgrounds.
- They don't resort to stereotypes, and they present a new vision and a new version of "the Native" in fashion.
- They are incredibly respectful of Native people.
- Profits from the Beyond Buckskin Boutique go directly to these artists and support small businesses, many of which are in Native communities and represent economic development strategies. I could go on.
This is pretty much as good as it gets, in my opinion. There is a difference between appropriation and appreciation, and Metcalfe pretty clearly explains that above.
So if you are looking for real Native American fashion, browse the many native-run stores out there for some kickass presents for you or others, no matter who you are or where you live.
See more misguided fashion decisions...
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Victoria's Secret
As part of the brand's "Far East" collection, the <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/09/24/victorias-secret-geisha-outfit-photos_n_1909366.html" target="_blank">"Sexy Little Geisha"</a> outfit came complete with a removable obi belt.
Urban Outfitters
Retailer gets in trouble for its "<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/20/urban-outfitters-jewish-star-tshirt_n_1441731.html" target="_hplink">Jewish Star</a>" t-shirt.
Abrecrombie & Fitch
Asian caricature t-shirts <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/news/article/ABERCROMBIE-GLITCH-Asian-Americans-rip-2850702.php" target="_hplink">caused outrage in California.</a>
Nike
St. Patrick's Day-themed SB Dunk Low <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/14/nike-black-and-tan_n_1344197.html" target="_hplink">"Black and Tan"</a> sneakers by Nike incite outrage from Irish community.
Urban Outfitters
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/06/03/eat-less-urban-outfitters_n_598904.html" target="_hplink">"Eat Less"</a> t-shirts aren't well received by, well, most people.
Abrecrombie & Fitch
"Wink Wink" and "Eye Candy" thongs for 10-year olds isn't a hit with all parents.
Urban Outfitters
"New Mexico, Cleaner than Regular Mexico" t-shirts didn't go over well.
(AP photo)
Urban Outfitters
Some Irish groups aren't pleased with this "<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/01/urban-outfitters-st-patricks-day-clothes-_n_1313242.html" target="_hplink">Irish Yoga</a>" trucker hat.
Urban Outfitters
"<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/01/urban-outfitters-st-patricks-day-clothes-_n_1313242.html" target="_hplink">Truly Madly Deeply Kiss Me</a>" t-shirt offends Irish groups.
Urban Outfitters
Ditto this "<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/03/01/urban-outfitters-st-patricks-day-clothes-_n_1313242.html" target="_hplink">Truly Madly Deeply Irish Drunk" </a>scoop tank.
Pubic Hair Dye
"Color for the hair down there" is not received well.
Taco Cid, South Carolina
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/09/how-to-catch-an-illegal-immigrant-taco-cid_n_2439294.html">"How to catch an illegal immigrant" shirt</a>
Fahad
"Cuntier" hats <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/12/cartier-cuntier-hats_n_2861513.html?utm_hp_ref=style&ir=Style">spoof Cartier logo</a>.
Clean and Dry Intimate Wash
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/12/vagina-bleaching-ad_n_1420825.html" target="_hplink">Skin-lightening wash</a> targets consumers with dark colored privates.
Urban Outfitters
Urban Outfitters thought it was a good idea to sell this shirt to its young demographic (with a lot of them being younger than 21).
Clean and Dry Intimate Wash
<a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/12/vagina-bleaching-ad_n_1420825.html" target="_hplink">Skin-lightening wash</a> targets consumers with dark colored privates.
FOLLOW CANADA BRITISH COLUMBIA
Native American Beliefs
For Native people, everything is imbued with spiritual meaning even in the context of the modern world, and especially when it comes to the expression of culture and identity. For dancers, not only is the act of dancing that expression, but the wearing of dance regalia is the visible manifestation of one's heritage. A dancer's regalia is one of the most powerful symbols of her Native identity and in that regard it can be considered sacred. This is one reason why it is incorrect to refer to dance regalia as a "costume." Many of the elements that make up a dance outfit are items often associated with ceremonial function such as eagle feathers and parts, animal hides, items that have been handed down through generations, as well as designs that may have been handed down or were given in dreams and visions.
...Often dance outfits or elements of outfits are passed down; grandma's moccasins, dad's dance fan or bustle, or mom's buckskin and beadwork. More often outfits are made by family members, purchased in the marketplace, or custom made by professional artists. Far less commonly are outfits actually made by the dancer her or himself.
No matter which way a dancer acquires their dance regalia, it typically takes many years to build a wardrobe of dance outfits and is very expensive.
http://www.three-fires.net/tfn/about.htm
Dancing for the people...in the same catagory as the SUN DANCE .
Let's hope Medusa Sant thinks a bit deeper on the issue..or possible goes home to ask her elders about the proper care of regalia.
http://www.powwow-power.com/powwowetiquette.html
Rob at Bluecorn comics has tons of info on this issues /see below
later gator
DM
It goes both ways.
If you tell white people they can't wear moccasins or let their kids be Indians for Halloween then take off those jeans or yoga pants and get thee into some deerskin leggings and beaver shirts already.
"Hypocrisy is the greatest luxury."
Many white people might find it offensive if you wore a bikini with mary on the upper and jesus on the lower.
It's about being respectful of people's spiritual beliefs, whether you believe in them, or not. I don't find the wearing of a war bonnet offensive, but then again, I am not native.
Natives asking me not to do it, or to promote it is good enough for me.
Even little children who choose to be "Indians" for Halloween are offensive, and apparently I am supposed to "talk to their parents" about how offensive it is the next time I see it.
http://eprints.rclis.org/bitstream/10760/9411/1/Young-Ing_Greg__thesis__-_Oct_10-06.pdf
http://www.wipo.int/edocs/mdocs/tk/en/wipo_grtkf_ic_17/wipo_grtkf_ic_17_inf_5_a.pdf
&
Drawing authority from the Draft Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous
Peoples, the NAVA protocols endorsed a series of principles regarding Indigenous
rights to retain control of their cultural heritage and to regard these rights as
intellectual property rights. In doing so the protocol posited that elements not
traditionally associated as intellectual property, should be recognized as such. The
NAVA protocol explained that:
Protocols provide a means of complying with the customs and cultural value
systems of a particular situation, group or culture, in order to acknowledge and
respect the situation or people involved, and to ensure that negotiations and
transactions are able to be undertaken in a spirit of co-operation and goodwill. The
importance of respecting the protocol requirements of every cultural group
involved in collaboration and transactions should be acknowledged.
Here we get a good idea about the nature of protocols: what they seek to
achieve and realize is an increase in understanding certain cultural nuances that
have not historically been easily accessible. The protocol seeks to bring certain
principles and guidelines for correct conduct into a more public, visible space.
http://www.cpaf-opsac.org/en/themes/documents/DiscussionPaperonProtocols2010-07-21.pdf
&
http://www.bluecorncomics.com/stype04.htm
DM - see all the references under the rules...
How about applying this concept of cultural appropriation to food. Right, we don't.
She was adopted out & was a youth advocate & used Fashion shows to inspire youth ..
from her first blog:
Yet another way to celebrate the latest in Indigenous Fashion! Check out this latest website created by Northern Styles to inform interested readers about the world of Aboriginal Fashion.
Charm Logan and I were at a panel of leading Canadian fashion representatives this winter. When Charm asked how would the organizers of L'Oreal fashion week events would ensure Aboriginal designers would be showcased - we were shocked and upset when Jeannie Becker from Fashion Television declare that "...natives don't have fashion they have costumes - and there is not place for costumes in fashion." She seemed proud to report she had recently bought a park of muk-luks in Winnipeg and they were made by a white woman.
indigenousfashion.com becomes a pro-active way of seeing past the limited vision of mainstream fashion respresentatives - and important medium to ensure Aboriginal fashion designers are acknowledged for their diverse and unique contributions to the world of fashion.
http://koouscollection.blogspot.ca/2009/02/indigenous-fashion-website-launched.html
--
J'net AyAy Qwa Yak Sheelth Cavanagh
Nuu-chah-nulth Textile Artist & Cedar Bark Weaver
West Coast of Vancouver Island, Canada
Wiiiild Wear ~ Indigenous Fusion for all Seasons
wiiiiildwear@gmail.com
www.wiiiildwear.blogspot.com
Comparing cowboy boots to headdresses is apples to oranges, and those articles will help you understand why.