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Cynthia Cheng Mintz

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Plus-Size Fashion Shouldn't Lack Style

Posted: 11/06/2012 5:30 pm

I recently wrote a post on my site, DelectablyChic!, about the recent Allistyle show at World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto.

This was not a response to the Toronto Standard piece about the models being laughed at, but an honest review about the show itself. It was not an all-rosy review, which was apparently something that I was expected to write. I suppose I was expected to be only positive so that I won't "offend" a line that is not "traditional," but that would not be an honest review. One should never lie, after all.

2012-11-05-Allistyletwolooks.jpg
Two looks from Allistyle


While I did not get a slew of negative comments, I was a little surprised that the emphasis on the Toronto Standard piece was almost all on body image/size of the models. I understand that the size issue is always going to come up first, but do we really know that this was the one and only issue? Could that chuckle have come because that person thought the clothes were not up to par? While yes, it's very rude to do this while a show is going on, we shouldn't automatically assume that it is about size. Thinking that is very one-track minded and needs to stop. It isn't always about size.


This brings me to the issue of specialty size clothing and style, or rather, the lack of style. Generally, specialty sizes are usually limited to budget and middle-ish markets -- save for lines like Marina Rinaldi, owned by Max Mara or premium denim lines (the latter is more a petite issue, however). If they fit well, they tend to be very basic -- a collection of simple skirts, dresses, pants and tops that are not meant to stand out well on their own. In the world of fashion, both plus and petite sizing (and of course, petite-plus) focus on plain, office-appropriate pieces and very rarely on FASHION or even something that is somewhat "stylish."

The lack of "style" was definitely the case with Allistyle. If this had been a non-specialty size collection, it probably wouldn't have even been shown at World MasterCard Fashion Week as is, unless the designer was already well known to those who are familiar with the Canadian fashion industry (e.g. Joe Fresh). As I mentioned in my post, I had high hopes that Allistyle would be different and that their debut at Fashion Week would have included a complete makeover of what they started as. I had hoped that they'd be less "catalogue" and more "fashion."

2012-11-05-The16thBarblueolive.jpg
Two looks from the new petite-exclusive collection, The 16th Bar. Notice the interesting hairstyles.


Of course, there is still room for improvement. If basic is still what they want to be, there are plenty of things they could have done in terms of styling. While getting accessories and shoe sponsors might be difficult without connections, make-up artists and hair stylists are at Fashion Week for a reason. When you are showing basic pieces, you might want to make the models' hair or make-up stand out.


Take, for example, The 16th Bar, an exclusively petite line of dresses and skirts, which recently showed their debut collection in Los Angeles. While the pieces aren't too different from looks currently available at other mass retailers, the models' hairstyles are clearly very "unique" and stand out -- different from what one would expect to see in a petite-exclusive collection. It is NOT catalogue looking. This is something that a basic specialty size line should consider doing for a runway presentation, especially if the line is more mass retailer/catalogue.

I hope that the Allistyle team takes these points into consideration for future seasons. I'd hate to, once again, only see "standard" size models on the runway. By showing at World MasterCard Fashion Week, Allistyle has possibly opened doors for other exclusively specialty size designers and I hope to see more of the line, and perhaps other exclusively specialty sized brands, in the future. At the same time, people should not jump to conclusions and assume that it is always a body image issue nor should media feel that they have to be positive in the name of political correctness.

Photo credits: Allistyle photos by Deborah Lawrence Photography; The 16th Bar photos by Logan Bingham
 

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I recently wrote a post on my site, DelectablyChic!, about the recent Allistyle show at World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto. This was not a response to the Toronto Standard pie...
I recently wrote a post on my site, DelectablyChic!, about the recent Allistyle show at World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto. This was not a response to the Toronto Standard pie...
 
 
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07:37 AM on 11/07/2012
I give up, plus size has now officially taken over the marketplace. I went onto a mainstream website Lands End to get a few new winter skirts and wow almost all the skirts are now "plus size exclusive", the same thing with some of the nicest sweaters. I'm not talking skirts that look like your grandmother's couch, I'm talking fitted pencil skirts with kick pleats and such - nope they don't come in sizes to fit anybody that is under size 1X no more. When this sort of thing happens you know that yep, the vast majority of people are now significantly overweight.
11:51 AM on 11/08/2012
I just visited Lands End's site to get an idea of what you mentioned. There are 29 straight-size skirts, and sixteen plus-size. 105 straight-size sweaters, 72 plus-size.

That is hardly 'taking over the marketplace', even if you discount that it's a single store. To me, it just looks like better representation than average -- and that's assuming the plus-sized clothes are made well, rather than being the usual afterthought which designers tend toward. It's unfortunate that you weren't able to find things that you liked for yourself, but kindly cut the hyperbolic BS. Just because one store carries some exclusively plus-sized items doesn't mean straight-sized folks are getting kicked to the curb.

Last I checked, fat people were still people, and there aren't any segregation laws. They're allowed nice things, they're allowed on 'mainstream' sites, and nobody's suffering when *everyone* gets to dress becomingly.