Sarah Deveau

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Chasing Hobbits in New Zealand

Posted: 04/25/2012 8:55 am

As a child, The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings books transported me to a magical land or wondrous and terrifying characters. J.R.R.Tolkien's Middle Earth was so richly drawn that I tumbled through every glen in my imagination alongside the diminutive hobbits. Each hairy-toed step of Bilbo Baggins' trek from his darling home in the Shire to the desolate Lonely Mountains, and Frodo Baggins' subsequent journey to the treacherous Mordor, felt as real to me as though I accompanied them.

With trepidation I did go see Peter Jackson's The Fellowship of the Rings on the big screen when it was realised. I worried the celluloid version of Middle-earth would pale in comparison to my virtual setting. My fears were quickly dispelled. Jackson's decision to film in his native New Zealand was brilliant, as it contains varied landscapes perfectly suited to represent the barren wastelands, soaring mountain ranges and sun-dappled forests of Tolkien's work.

A decade after the first of the blockbuster trilogy was released, companies such as Red Carpet Tours still do bustling business offering "Ringers" 12 day tours with nationwide itineraries.

In my quest to follow in the footsteps of hobbits and see as many filming locations as possible in two weeks, I travelled with just the official Lord of the Rings Location Guidebook as my co-pilot. I naïvely believed I'd be able to literally follow some of the hobbit's route, quickly discovering that their route is no more than film trickery, with hundreds of locales used to create the seamless journey as depicted in the books.

My first stop was the hobbit hole at Woodlyn Park in Waitomo, New Zealand. This little home built into the ground was the perfect beginning to my quest to discover Tolkien's fantastic Middle-earth. The next day I visited the Hobbiton Movie Set, near the Waikato town of Matamata.

Concealed in the middle of a working 1,200-acre private sheep ranch is the 10-acre Shire Bilbo and Frodo Baggins called home. The film sets were temporary and were meant to be destroyed at the end of filming. Instead, the family that owned the property arranged to keep the Shire, but the deal came too late to save half of the facades, which had already been removed. Only The Party Tree, the Shire's lake and The Mill and Bilbo's house at Bag End remained, and have drawn hundreds of thousands of tourists over the years. Over the past two years, crews have been busy rebuilding Hobbiton for filming of The Hobbit, returning the Shire to its original lustre.

A few days later, more than 1,400 kilometres away, I held on for dear life in a four-wheel drive Jeep careening around a historic gold mining road. On a Nomad Safaris tour joined by an American family of LOTR fans, our driver was navigating boulders up the Arrow River, the location where Frodo made his last flight to cross the waters of the Bruinen to reach the safety of Elrond's home in Rivendell.

We had departed from picturesque Queenstown on New Zealand's South Island. Nestled around an inlet on Lake Wakatipu, the popular adventure tourism destination is overshadowed by the Remarkables mountain range on the lake's south-eastern shore, which featured prominently in the trilogy as the Misty Mountains, among others. We disembarked frequently to compare the stunning scenery with the still set photos in the location guidebook.

Though I didn't make it as far south as Wellington, fans say it's the perfect final leg of a Middle-earth journey. There I could have toured Peter Jackson's physical effects company Weta Workshop, and headed just north of the capital city to picnic by the river at Rivendell, temporary home of the elves in Middle-earth, located in Kaitoke Regional Park.

I wait patiently for my daughters to grow old enough to begin reading The Hobbit. I can't wait to tell them how their mother trekked The Hobbit's route, and even knocked on Bilbo Baggins' door, hoping for a second breakfast.

  • A HOBBIT HOLE IN HOBBITON

  • ARROW TOWN

    Behind a copy of The Lord of the Rings Guidebook runs the Arrow River, which represented the Ford of Bruinen, where Arwen carried Frodo across the river.

  • BAG END, HOBBITON

    Bilbo Baggins' cozy home, Bag End, in Hobbiton.

  • GLADDEN FIELDS

    In Arrowtown, a path through the trees in Wilcox Green was the scene where Isildur was attacked by the Orcs and deceived by The One Ring.

  • GLENORCHY

    Behind a copy of The Lord of the Rings Guidebook is the site where the Hobbits watched the battles of the Oliphants.

  • KAWARAU RIVER

    The Kawarau River near Queenstown, which represented the River Anduin and Argonath.

 
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'FONE FINDS
As a child, The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings books transported me to a magical land or wondrous and terrifying characters. J.R.R.Tolkien's Middle Earth was so richly drawn that I tumbled through ever...
As a child, The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings books transported me to a magical land or wondrous and terrifying characters. J.R.R.Tolkien's Middle Earth was so richly drawn that I tumbled through ever...
 
 
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08:01 PM on 05/01/2012
I also feel that Peter Jackson did an absolutely amazing job with J.R.R. Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings books. He was able to find stunning settings for the movie versions of the books. The movies really made the scenery a big part and this helped with the overall quality of the films. I believe the movies deserved every single award they received and more. The transformation of the books to movies was great, and sticks in my mind as one of the best examples of a fantastic series of books being transformed into a fantastic series of movies.
I would love to journey through the shire and visit Bag End and see where battles were fought. I hope to see some of those sights sometime soon. I’m sure it’s great for businesses in the vicinity too to see all the tourism to these famous locations. I’m also keenly waiting for The Hobbit to finally come to life this December when Peter Jackson’s film adaption of the book comes out. Again, I am going to love to see how Peter Jackson can capture the beauty of the settings described in the book and show a real life version that is just as vivid as how I imagined it. If The Hobbit is anything like the Lord of the Rings trilogy then every fan of the books has something to look forward to. It has a stellar cast and having been shot in New Zealand again, it's sure to please.
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Capn Scott
the 'moderated' me
10:13 PM on 04/25/2012
Prior to getting divorced I had a piece of property up in the Shasta National Forest and plans to build a 'hobbit hole' out of 12' diameter concrete pipe. Not so much for the 'coolness' of the design...although it was certainly cool (literally and figuratively), but also because it afforded a great deal of fire protection to have a mostly underground home.

Oh well.
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itruth
fideistic deist with socratic tedencies
04:11 PM on 04/25/2012
Tolkien was a master at imagery.Thank you for this post,it takes me back to a time of wonder.I envy your chance to share this with your lucky children.The last book i shared with a step daughter was one of Steven King's Gunslinger series or Dark Tower series as they are called.Roland Deschain and cast became an afternoon date for us to read together.She was enthralled by the story and it was Oy the Billy Bumbler and a young girl in that book that gave her the thirst to read.i must admit it was a fine summer that year and one that i will always remember.
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Peter Boehringer
Dona nobis pacem
03:46 PM on 04/25/2012
Perhaps Jackson will move on after this to the Silmarils and all of the wonderful prehistory that brought both The Hobbit and the LOTR trilogy. I want to see his take on the Valar and the chaining of Melkor and his ultimate downfall, the fall of the Numenoreans, the flight of the elves, the coming of men to middle earth, etc. Of course, you can only ask him to do so much.
02:06 PM on 04/25/2012
I've always wanted to visit NZ (since *way before* the LOTR movies, believe it or not!)... I mean, the films were fine, but is it even possible to go there now *without* some sort of Tolkein/Rings/Hobbit connection!?! Not that I could afford it anyway...
07:14 PM on 04/26/2012
Hey David - unless you're searching it out, you probably won't run across a single LOTR or Hobbit reference. It's really not commercialized at all in NZ - but it's there if you hunt it out.
10:54 AM on 04/27/2012
Thanks, Sarah, I'm actually quite relieved to hear that.
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Silverfern
12:46 PM on 04/25/2012
When I was at school in New Zealand on a hiking trip in the 80's we were all discussing how the terrain we were hiking in would be perfect for LOTR. It was funny to reflect on that many years later when the films came out that these were the same places.
10:47 AM on 04/25/2012
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Too bad the filmmakers couldn't have foreseen the success of the movies and left the sets in place for tourism. I am sure the locals would have been delighted for that to happen for their local economies. Perhaps the country's tourism board can persuade Jackson to keep The Hobbitt sets in tact this time for just such a purpose. Hobitton, Bree, Rivendell, Dale, and the Lonely Mtn. would make for nice tourist attractions.
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eurisko67
02:47 PM on 04/25/2012
From your lips to Peter Jackson's ears. When they built the new sets for Hobbiton in this new movie, they were built with brick and mortar, with the owners permission of course. It will be a permanent display for tourism. As for the other sets, they are/were required by the government to remove the sets after filming and restore the locations to their original status.
07:15 PM on 04/26/2012
Plus many of the filming locations were strictly digital!
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jadeaic
ScarySociety
10:39 AM on 04/25/2012
I would love to live in that little house; wow. Wish I could afford to go there and see this in person,