01/15/2012 07:21 EST | Updated 03/16/2012 05:12 EDT

Emporio Armani 2012 winter menswear speaks of long winters ahead

MILAN - "These are times for a less aggressive and more human approach to life," Giorgio Armani said after the presentation of his second line, Emporio.

The designer was referring to how people should deal with the current crisis, also he believes, reflected in the way they dress.

The winter 2013 menswear collection presented Sunday, was subdued but not sombre, revisiting old classics and giving them a contemporary twist.

The favourite item of the collection is the scarf, the perennial security blanket.

Almost as wide as a pashmina, or long and skinny like a football scarf, or kerchief style, the new scarf shields the Armani man from chill winds, whatever their origin.

Black leather, which appears almost everywhere this round of menswear preview showings, at Armani becomes a collarless trench coat cut close to the body and belted at the waist. Other winter outerwear include duffle coats and double-breasted pea coats in ultra soft wools, trimmed in fur. Sheepskin is used for blanket-like robe jackets belted at the waist and mini vests to be worn over jackets for extra protection.

The latest Emporio suit has a classic if rather close to the body jacket and a slim trouser. Ties are optional.

Like the styles, the colours reflect "a discipline of thought and conduct," as the designer put it in his show notes.

Black, ebony brown, anthracite and smoky grey, have always been Armani favourites, but given the present climate their discretion is particularly fitting.

Although he didn't go into figures, Armani, the man who put Milan on the international fashion map some 30 years ago and in November opened a hotel in his home city, said 2011 was a good year for him.

"Given the difficult moment, we are satisfied," he told reporters after the show.