01/16/2012 02:15 EST | Updated 03/17/2012 05:12 EDT

Alexander McQueen evokes Victorian era in menswear collection for next winter

MILAN - Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton looked to the Victorian age for inspiration for wintertime menswear.

The period is most strongly evoked in what the Americans might call knickers, but the Britsh fashion house founded by the late Alexander McQueen calls plus-fours, three quarter length pants often fastened at mid-calf with a button.

The plus-fours nicely show off shiny leather lace-up shoes, and look sporty with a jersey and knit jacket — exemplary of the 2013 winter collection's fusing of materials — or elegant in slate grey with a velvet shawl collar jacket.

Burton used a feather motif in the collection, pinning peacock feathers on to super soft overcoats and creating an electrified feather print suit in midnight and peacock blue, worn with a matching tie and shirt.

A floral red embroidery created a rich, sumptuous look on a black velvet waistcoat and matching V-neck.

Burton, who sprang to worldwide fame when her design was chosen for the wedding dress of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, took over the label after founder Alexander McQueen's death in 2010. Press-shy and highly sought-after, Burton chose to show her wears in presentations throughout the day Monday rather than a conventional runway show.