02/15/2012 07:04 EST | Updated 04/16/2012 05:12 EDT

Lela Rose cites architectural inspiration in her NY Fashion Week collection

NEW YORK, N.Y. - The bridges and rail stations of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava inspired designer Lela Rose for her fall collection at New York Fashion Week.

Backstage before the Sunday runway show, Rose talked about "these long and lean angular silhouettes ... this whole kind of poetic fluidity through everything."

Rose used light, airy fabrics in linear prints for her dresses, some with sheer black tulle necks and sleeves that were embroidered with twisted metal or sparkly discs. The designer said she included long, daytime dresses in the collection, "which we've never really done before."

The architectural theme ran through the collection with zigzag printed knits, arch seams on dresses and grid lace over sheaths.

The finale gown was a strapless grey and black labyrinth print with a train that billowed down the runway.

Models, who wore their hair in high side French twists, walked in shoes Rose designed for Payless ShoeSource. Some had tall chunky heels with horizontal lines like the stories of a high-rise building.

Former first daughter Jenna Bush and model Camila Alves sat in the front row. Bush said Rose designed the bridesmaid dresses for her wedding.

"I love the way she makes such feminine, cute dresses that you can wear all the time," Bush said. "They're really accessible."

Bush and Rose share something else besides their love of style: Both are Texans.


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