03/06/2012 02:17 EST | Updated 05/06/2012 05:12 EDT

Paco Rabanne revamps the Rhodoid disc dress for modern times

PARIS - Paco Rabanne put a spin on the house archives in a fall-winter ready-to-wear collection Tuesday that included variations on the '60s Do-It-Yourself Rhodoid dress.

Manish Arora, in his second effort as the creative director, succeeded in capturing an essence of the founder, who first cut his teeth in jewelry design, in a sparkling array of signature waistless cocktail dresses.

Sometimes the designer hit the right button, invoking Brigitte Bardot's mini-metallic dress made in 1969. Its squareness and the play between the mail and contradictory lightness made it feel very now. But other references looked slightly off-balance.

One jumpsuit in metal pieces revamped an oufit for singer Francoise Hardy 40 years ago, and was — so said the program notes — "reborn." However, the low-slung and heavy baggy pants produced a formless silhouette that even made the six-foot blond siren wearing it look clunky.