03/07/2012 03:46 EST | Updated 05/07/2012 05:12 EDT

Saab back to basic va-va-voom collection, and a gasp-inducing floorlength dress

PARIS - It's hard to know what new to say about Elie Saab, a designer with the same mission each season: to produce a glitzy array of va-va-voom silhouettes.

Wednesday's fall-winter show ended with statement evening dresses that are sure to turn up at the next big Hollywood party, but that's a theme from last season and the season before.

The slight variation this time was structure.

The peplum made a comeback in lean, more architectural daywear. A beautiful ash sheath with an armour-like, jutting waist perfectly balanced sex with the business look. It said: Admire, but don't touch.

Prints in grey and black also marked a change from the total-colour shock of the last ready-to-wear collection, with body skimming panels and cut-outs adding a dash of provocation to Saab's slightly modified winning formula.

Women tend to gasp every few minutes at an average Saab offering. This time a gasp that perhaps sucked the most oxygen out of the Tuileries Gardens auditorium was over a petrol green floorlength dress dripping with tiny sequins.

"Is it edgy? No," said Susan Tabak, a luxury lifestyle expert at the show. "But he does what he does, and women like and buy what he does."