Art-deco structures and angular shoulders combined with breastplate cutouts Wednesday to give silhouettes the feel of an exoskeleton.
While holographic shirts and nylon-bonded silk gave the proceedings a distinctly watery feel. Why travel to such murky, depths for inspiration?
"I just wanted to go somewhere where there's no wi-fi — everyone's always tweeting. So I went to undersea creatures," said Formichetti backstage, with trademark humour.
In truth, the concept was just a detail: more important was the accomplished play on suit structures. Elements of a traditional single breasted ensemble were reversed and deconstructed. Shorts sported suit trouser pockets poking visibly down the thigh, while flat trapezoid bibs featured in the place of shirts, futuristically.
On one pale single breasted grey suit in rippling jacquard, a deconstructed pocket gave the classic cut a subtle kick.
It was an interesting collection — that is, if you have the stomach for Mugler's somewhat recurring obsession with mollusks — now a trademark.
Why so many insects?
Formichetti quipped: "I was just a weird child."
Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP