06/29/2012 11:36 EDT | Updated 08/29/2012 05:12 EDT

Film noir makes a fashion comeback for Juun J.

PARIS - The exaggerated silhouette of the 1940s matinee idol was behind Juun J.'s bold and exhaustive menswear collection for spring-summer 2013.

The Korean designer, who impressed critics last season, took for inspiration the 1948 Japanese movie "Drunken Angel" by Akira Kurosawa.

"The (postwar) shapes are beautiful... Big shoulders, high waist," said the designer backstage.

If only Juun —with a wide-ranging assortment of 35 looks — had kept it that simple.

The show started with the dark pinstriped, broad shouldered suits of film noir gangster movies.

They had interesting bottom-heavy pear silhouettes.

One beautiful black double breasted suit was made to look like wrap-around kimonos with the inflated and ruffled arms.

Maybe 1940s tough guys do have a sense of humour, after all.

East meets West was also nicely conveyed with tapered sultan pants.

But at times, it felt like the designer was trying too hard.

Silhouettes seemed to come in all shapes and sizes.

One look, a trench coat on a trench coat, just about worked.

But the meaning was lost on another look: a white oversized coat with myriad flapping lapels and layers.

3-D star detailing at one point seemed to come out of the blue — reminiscent of designs by Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci.

The real message of this overall strong collection? Don't try to please everyone.


Thomas Adamson can be followed at