06/30/2012 01:13 EDT | Updated 08/30/2012 05:12 EDT

Dior Homme gives the navy a touch of tailoring

PARIS - Dior Homme's Kris Van Assche marched a tailored naval troop down the runway in a play-it-safe spring-summer 2013 menswear show, which banished black and channeled Royal Navy blue.

On Saturday, models with severe slicked back hair in fitted blazers of light-weight wools and Prince of Wales check set the strict, conservative tone.

Indeed, there was nothing revolutionary here.

Van Assche's design approach follows the philosophy: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

He reworked many ideas from last season's much lauded show: marrying tailored military uniforms and sportswear.

If Van Assche's aim was to create a salable, gentle evolution in his style, he succeeded.

The differences were subtle.

"It's my first show where there is no black, blue is the new way of doing black," said Van Assche.

The show's other new element was its assault of buttons: silver buttons, black buttons — all engraved with Christian Dior's coat of arms — peppering single and double breasted suits with stronger shoulders.

One of the most striking looks added a much-needed drop of fun: sporty sheer nylon mesh in highly tailored blazers and coats.

Dior Homme continued to trumpet its signature chic, fitted silhouette, bucking this season's look of elongated and oversized form.

"I've noticed clothes can be fitted and comfortable at the same time," added Van Assche. "It's not about doing ballooning volumes."

At which point an incredibly skinny Sharon Stone came to give him a kiss.

When you're as influential as Dior, you don't need to follow trends.


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