09/07/2012 08:41 EDT | Updated 11/07/2012 05:12 EST

Rag & Bone brings their style of cool to spring-season fashion show

NEW YORK, N.Y. - The layers were lovely in the preview of next spring's Rag & Bone collection, staged Friday as part of New York Fashion Week.

They weren't "too much" — even if there were so many of them — but the models might have disagreed. They wore heaps of leather and lace in a steamy, raw space — without air-conditioning — adjacent to what is now the Farley Post Office and will be home to a new hub train station.

You wouldn't have known it to look at them, though, especially finale model Karlie Kloss, who had on a coral ripstop poncho.

Each look oozed the cool vibe that designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have mastered.

Tough leather, sometimes quilted motocross style, mixed seamlessly with both the ladylike peeks of lace, and the menswear-inspired shirts. Somehow, the outfits had a hint of a Wild West saloon while remaining thoroughly modern. Was that player piano music in the finale?

Confirming a few trends that retailers, editors and stylists have seen in the first two days of seasonal previews, Rag & Bone flashed some skin with strategic cutouts, did the hoodie thing and played with the proportion of the trenchcoat. Once they're on this runway, they're likely here to stay.

There also were the pops of bright blue, pink and green that punctuated the dominant colours of white and black.