09/09/2012 06:37 EDT | Updated 11/09/2012 05:12 EST

Donna Karan's DKNY emphasizes sporty, head-turning styles for spring

NEW YORK, N.Y. - What can stop traffic in always-bustling New York? Donna Karan in a taxicab-yellow raincoat.

Karan took her bow in the eye-catcher at Sunday's DKNY New York Fashion Week preview to the delight of the fashion insiders and to the passers-by on the street who could peek in the open doors to the Chelsea studio space.

She turned out a collection of mostly sporty looks featuring white perforated leather (think golf-glove material), camouflage prints, bathing suits-turned-bodysuits, bra tops and long neoprene dresses with mesh backs and sexy inserts. One of those dresses was in the same super-bright yellow that Karan wore.

DKNY is supposed to dress its customers every day and for every occasion, said Karan in a post-show interview: "When I can wear the same thing as the girls on the runway, I've done my job."

Karan opened her show with a series of optic-white leather looks, including a blazer worn with pleated leather pants and a silk shirt. A leather pencil skirt was paired with a denim Western-style shirt, and a long white anorak topped cropped skinny jeans.

Throw in a silver leather pencil skirt, a black cotton-twill utility jacket with leather sleeves and a bodysuit with a DKNY made to look like an old subway token and you have the basics of a spring wardrobe.

"What's a New Yorker?" she asked in her notes. "Someone who's ready for anything. Day to night; street to chic. She loves a contradiction."