09/09/2012 03:01 EDT | Updated 11/09/2012 05:12 EST

Edgy cocktails or the office, Derek Lam shows tweeds, foil and macrame at NY Fashion Week

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Burgundy foil paillettes for cocktails or skinny madras plaid trousers with matching jacket in a military green for the office? You can take your pick from Derek Lam's spring collection shown Sunday at New York Fashion Week.

Lam's edgy but wearable runway at a downtown venue included black lambskin halter tops and a fitted black leather dress with a pleated hem. Solid-color leather pieces, including a foldover bodice vest and matching skirt in bright blue, stood in contrast to lasercut foil accents on dresses and skirts and macrame and lace work in tweeds and basketweave patterns.

Sun yellow, greens in khaki and forest, along with neutral ivories and cocoa were punctuated by a pop of purple in a lace T-shirt worn with an ochre woven stripe tweed macrame skirt. The soft purple also showed up in a cropped lace camisole and matching skirt.

Lam went metallic gold for a skirt with macrame that stopped at the knee. Most hems landed just above or below the knee.

Kyle Anderson, the accessories director for Marie Claire, said Lam creates what many young women want, including those who crave fashion but may not be looking to take extreme risks.

"It's never weird," Anderson said. "It's always something new, always something fresh. He delivers every single time."

Harley Viera-Newton, fashion it girl and DJ, is a fan. "Loved," she said after the show, tweeting the same sentiment to her Internet base.


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