09/09/2012 10:45 EDT | Updated 11/09/2012 05:12 EST

Posen reunites his top models and his masterful details on the fashion week runway

NEW YORK, N.Y. - The audience at Zac Posen's New York Fashion Week show had started griping about its delayed start, but as soon as Naomi Campbell took that first step on the runway Sunday evening, there was a collective "aha."

And then there was an "ooh."

The spring collection was being modeled on the terrace of Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall by many of the models who helped put Posen on the map a decade ago. Campbell, Erin O'Connor, Karolina Kurkova and Alek Wek were among the catwalkers who'd strut for the newbie because they were such fans of his masterfully made clothes.

Fast-forward to the new season, and Posen put them in romantic, glamorous gowns with the intricate, detailed, show-stopping sort of details that first won them over. Most of the models here are rarely at these seasonal previews anymore.

Campbell, walking to the 1940s jazz tune "Sunday Kind of Love," wore a corseted daytime dress with a swingy dance hemline, setting the tone.

There were several other tight-bodice, full-skirt looks before Posen moved into the gowns, the best of which had either tons of tiny tulle pintucks, mermaid silhouettes or candy-ribbon peplums.

It's probably a safe bet that Coco Rocha's finale white jacquard organza gown with a massive tiered skirt will end up on a Hollywood red carpet sometime soon, although one wonders how the starlet will be able to sit down.