09/10/2012 07:43 EDT | Updated 11/10/2012 05:12 EST

Carmen Marc Valvo leaves behind his minimalist fall season for a spring of lace and volume

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Carmen Marc Valvo left behind the minimalism and clean lines of fall in favour of flowing glamour in voluminous lace cocktail dresses and red carpet gowns Sunday during New York Fashion Week.

Choosing an elegant, all-white venue on 7th Avenue instead of the Lincoln Center tents, the spring collection was Asian-inspired in origami folds of organza at the chest and waist, Kimono wrap constructions and yin-yang combinations of Chantilly lace and brocade.

Valvo was inspired by Samurai breast plates when he created panels of glass, square-cut sequins for chest pieces over lace.

"Last fall it was very minimal," Valvo said after the show. "I'm feeling a little more hopeful right now and I think the collection reflects that. I thought it should be a little more grand, more regal. I wanted volume. I didn't want to be afraid."

Some hems on formal wear in ivory and cobalt began just below the knee in front and ended with elegant trains. Valvo paired a gazar skirt gown with a top of square-panel sequins against lace in poppy.

A parchment and black floral was printed on silk gazar with lace insets.

Many of the looks were tie-belted in the style denoting degrees of karate.

Some of Valvo's silk gazar included peplum ruffles at the waist. He put a peplum bottom on a black silk belted top as well.

What else is different for Valvo? "No linings. Forget linings. No construction. Freedom."

Loyal friend of the house Vanessa Williams agreed.

"It's so wearable. It's elegant," she said, describing a full-length lace gown in ivory with matching-colour tie at the waist among her favourites. "It was stunning. His stuff is always great quality, always well made."


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