09/10/2012 10:01 EDT | Updated 11/10/2012 05:12 EST

Marc Jacobs turns out 'candy-striper cool' look at NY Fashion Week

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Let's switch gears: For the past five days, the chatter at New York Fashion Week has been about softening the edges, but Marc Jacobs changed the conversation — as he often does — after going graphic at his show Monday night.

Black-and-white stripes followed by red stripes, tan stripes and then more black-and-white stripes came rapid fire down the runway at the Lexington Avenue Armory.

There was a mod mood to the spring collection, especially the short T-shirt dresses with scalloped hemlines, but not a hint of Jacob's mystical forest theme he had for the current fall season.

"It was so graphic with no frills," said Adam Glassman, creative director of O, The Oprah magazine.

He added, "You definitely need a jacket or coat for spring." He'd recommend one of the ones that featured longer length, to the knee, often paired with a matching full skirt. "It's something we haven't seen in a while."

Stylist and fashion commentator Mary Alice Stephenson envisions the gowns, many of those also with the relaxed T-shirt silhouette, on the red carpet. "Loose, easy stripes done in the uptown meets downtown way: candy-striper cool," she said.

There were other things other than stripes — including some ruffle-front skirtsuits (a lot of skirt suits in general, actually) and a midriff-baring Mickey Mouse sweater — but it was everything horizontal and vertical that would leave the lasting impression.

Ricky Martin used his night off from Broadway's "Evita" to come to the show, a fashion-week debut for him. "It was very powerful. Very beautiful. I love what he does. He's always on the edge I think."