She likes strong shoulders, even when she's wearing a knit T-shirt dress. She also wears a lot of cropped pleated pants, often leather ones, with high waistbands, and cropped jackets.
When she wears a coat, it's long like a duster.
While Monday's preview was for spring, the mostly dark palette suited the hideaway venue in an unused part of a midtown post office. Theyskens, however, did embrace some strikingly light shades of denim.
Of course, there's a night life for Theyskens' muse, and she doesn't shy away from metallic fabrics or beadings, and that's when she pulls out a little colour: a starburst halter gown in ice blue.