09/11/2012 06:36 EDT | Updated 11/11/2012 05:12 EST

At NY Fashion Week, Theyskens Theory's urbanite finds new romanticisim

NEW YORK, N.Y. - The Theyskens Theory line marries edgy-style darling Olivier Theyskens with accessible Theory, but the new spring collection at New York Fashion Week presented a singular vision. It was an all-day wardrobe for the cool urbanite who might be a little more romantic than she thought.

She likes strong shoulders, even when she's wearing a knit T-shirt dress. She also wears a lot of cropped pleated pants, often leather ones, with high waistbands, and cropped jackets.

When she wears a coat, it's long like a duster.

While Monday's preview was for spring, the mostly dark palette suited the hideaway venue in an unused part of a midtown post office. Theyskens, however, did embrace some strikingly light shades of denim.

Of course, there's a night life for Theyskens' muse, and she doesn't shy away from metallic fabrics or beadings, and that's when she pulls out a little colour: a starburst halter gown in ice blue.