09/13/2012 03:57 EDT | Updated 11/13/2012 05:12 EST

Calvin Klein leaves things undone at NY Fashion Week

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Francisco Costa, women's creative director at Calvin Klein, got to have final say Thursday at New York Fashion Week as one of the last major designers to preview a spring collection, but he left a purposeful impression of things left undone.

It's what left the crowd wanting more. Edges were left frayed, contrasting linings were revealed, and necklines were bare and exposed, all giving the impression that one was seeing more than they should. A gold hardware frame peeked atop the black sheer-panel dress that closed the show.

Costa has a knack for the "seductive lines," he mentioned in his notes offered to retailers, editors and stylists — many of whom now move on to London, Milan and Paris to continue seasonal previews.

"A play on shadows and contrasts," Costa said. "Light captured in modern draping, formed by compressions and folds. Contouring shapes emphasize the bust and a cinched waist — exuding heightened elegance."

He certainly drew eyes to the bust and bodice, offering a series of conical bustiers, which were exactly what they sound like.

On their own, they were futuristic but also a little harsh; under a sheer silk corset or a mesh silk crepe coat, they were sexy and edgy.

Calvin Klein continued the many layers of fabrics and textures that have dominated the runways: an abstract lace dress goes over a lacquered satin bustier and a bonded mesh skirt, for example. But the fact that almost every outfit featured black here can't be called part of that trend — it's a way of life for this design house.