LONDON - While other designers work summery watercolour hues and bold prints, Marios Schwab's catwalk show on Sunday was a darkly seductive affair of shredded leather, smouldering midnight tones and tribal detailing.
Drawing inspiration from an idea of the Amazonian warrior, Schwab opened his show on Day 3 of London Fashion Week with a series of dresses in sheer layers of black and oxblood, decorated with leather tassels.
These tassels appeared throughout the show — adorning high heels or flat lace-up gladiator sandals, on lapels, in short parallel rows down the bodice, or strategically shielding the body on sheer gowns.
Schwab also created texture with pleating, which was used first on leather dresses in fuchsia and inky blue, then later on chiffon skirts paired with lace tops in the same hue.
Schwab's designs always play on seduction and have a mysterious femme fatale element to them, and his spring collection was no exception. Models' bare bodies were just visible under the layers of light material, and at times high slits on the pleated leather skirts revealed flesh-toned mesh layers beneath.
The final evening pieces — nude or sheer black high-collared column gowns embellished with tassels and beading — were dramatic showstoppers.
The Greco-Austrian designer's show was packed, with front row guests including Japanese Vogue's editor Anna Dello Russo.
Sunday's busy show schedule also included Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Preen and Jonathan Saunders.