09/23/2012 05:06 EDT | Updated 09/24/2018 09:25 EDT

Marni's summer looks simple but hardly minimalist with volume-creating effects in firm fabrics

MILAN - Marni's runway space was pure white, devoid of collection clues where normally there is a hint, of say, a repeating geometric pattern. And then again, that emptiness spoke volumes.

"Sparseness as elegance," the label wrote in notes for the spring-summer 2013 collection previewed Sunday during Milan Fashion Week.

There was a simplicity to the collection that is hard to define as minimalist, given the volume-creating effects of folds in A-line skirts and peplums, or short overskirts, added to tops and jackets. Necklines were mostly simple V's or crew.

Skirts and dresses were the mainstay of the collection, with some roomy shorts — lovely in leather with equally roomy V-neck tops with three-quarter sleeves — and slim-fitting pedal pushers.

Much of the line was monochromatic: white, black and green with touches of orange or aqua.

Designer Consuelo Castiglioni also was true to the label's Bohemian feel with bold patterns, checked fabric had transparent blocks, lending a seasonal lightness, and sequences of undulating semicircles. There were also block flowers — floral prints and motifs a clear trend this season.

Castiglioni chose sturdy materials, cotton canvas, jacquard and leather, which defined the clean line, and contrasted to volumes created through lighter, billowing fabric on other Milan runways.

Open-toe slingback sandals had accents of silver or golden metal on the wedge, and platform sandals strapped around the ankle gave a hint of the Orient. Hair was pulled back easily, leaving loose strands for a look of careless freedom.