PARIS - "I love Frank Gehry," Guy Laroche designer Marcel Morongiu said after his uber-refined spring-summer 2013 collection, which channeled the famed U.S. architect's buildings.
What the collection pulled off Wednesday at Paris Fashion Week was no small feat: Downsizing with panache the spirit of Gehry's sculptural lines and volumes to fit the svelte female form.
Long silhouettes slinked by with panels that flapped stiffly and with on-trend angular cutouts — replacing the house DNA's vibrant colours with streamlined elegance.
Another lofty reference was to Brazil's master architect Oscar Niemeyer — whose landmark contemporary art museum in Rio that features bold central paneling was evoked by outfits with strapped or sexily exposed midriffs.
Sex appeal is from the waist and above and long is back — the show seemed to declare.
In addition to the architecture master class, the Guy Laroche team also hit the science lab.
A fantastic new material was made especially for the show: A double crepe, silk and viscose Nutty Professor concoction that gave a curious stiffness to the clothes, including a show-stopping, knee-length, laser-cut navy coat.
While other designers in Paris were picking up on a new summer trend for black and white, here the black was translated as a tasteful navy, splashed indulgently alongside subtle patterns.
"I would love to start a fashion revolution," said Morongiu. "It's time for the women who don't want to look like their granddaughter!"
Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP