09/26/2012 09:50 EDT | Updated 11/26/2012 05:12 EST

The East deconstructed by Damir Doma at Paris fashion week

PARIS - Croatian-born designer Damir Doma went East for spring-summer, in an ambitious show that included Russian Cossack garb, Oriental kimono-sleeve jackets and even white belted karate tops.

In fact, there was a little something for everyone.

Twenty nine dizzying ensembles filtered by — tight, high waisted looks and a peppering of leather Obi-belts were followed by freer, baggier silhouettes with dropped centres of gravity.

Colours ranged from black, brown and navy to the shocking sheen of turquoise blue and cobalt.

If there was one thing that brought cohesion to the motley ensemble it was this: deconstruction.

Almost a signature style for any graduate of Belgium's avant-garde fashion capital Antwerp — like Dries Van Noten — Doma exposed paneling, buckles, zips and fastenings. The hidden and functional inner workings of vestments exposed on the outside.

"Of course I am avant-garde, I'm from Antwerp," Doma said backstage. "I just cut things up, break and put them together. A collage."

The broken collage was also found in the soundtrack: Delibes startlingly beautiful "Flower Duet," subverted with loud, off-beat blasts of house.


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