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Chloe turns 60, but still as fresh as a daisy in cool, clean spring collection

PARIS - The Chloe fashion house is celebrating its 60th birthday during Paris Fashion Week but its spring-summer 2013 show proved it's still as fresh as a daisy.

Designer Clare Waight Keller's collection takes its cue from founder Gaby Aghion's mantra: "I lived the life I wanted."

Chloe, founded in 1952, practically invented ready-to-wear in the first place and has always confidently led the way. That rebelliousness came out Monday in the clothes — strongly feminine and diaphanous but also structured with laser-cut edges in many large frills and ripples.

"I wanted a feminine spirit, but sharp," Waight Keller said after the show. "So we cut the ripples in the material, like a knife."

This contrasted with the collection's soft side. Transparent organza silks played on volume, giving a layered three-dimensionality to soft, oversized T-shirts and knee-length skirts. The light touches came from hibiscus flower appliques on sheer white tops, or in one instance, in green down a singular pant leg.

Features like this can look overly busy if handled poorly. But here the looks were paired with a clean-cut minimalist vest, jacket or Bermuda to tasteful effect.

Waight Keller is one of the nine designers being celebrated at an exhibit "Chloe: Attitudes," that opened Friday at Paris' Palais de Tokyo and features 70 influential Chloe pieces from 1952 until now.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

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