"That was a fantasy piece," quipped designer Jeremy Scott after this striking ensemble closed out his runway show Wednesday in a packed downtown gallery. (Just in case we thought it was meant as office wear.) "I always wanted to do a coat with a tail."
Many designers have fantasies that make it to the runway, but few so entertainingly as Scott, a cheerful bad boy of the fashion world.
Last season, Scott presented a line loosely based on the Arab Spring (it was, after all, a spring collection.) This season, he said, he was thinking more of "West Coast post-punk, surfer culture. Just a little bit of a different feeling. I design based on what I'd want to have in my own personal wardrobe."
Wednesday's show was ostensibly about fall and winter wear, which explains the furry Chewbacca look, but what about the bikini tops, paired with tiny minis? Well, it's always hot somewhere in the world.
There were plenty of big, Scott-style graphics on display — lots of teeth and eyeballs, for example, on sweaters or in a green leathery ensemble that recalled a vintage pinup poster. In one outfit, colours and seasons collided: Huge, purple furry boots accompanied an orange-and-purple, swimsuit-like bottom and an open black leather jacket — sort of winter, summer and fall, all together.
Colorful graphics competed with written messages on other garments: The plea to "Rescue Me," for example, or the wry observation: "Adults Suck Then You Are One."
A big cheer greeted the final yellow fur contraption. Backstage, Scott was mobbed by well-wishers, many carrying his bags, or wearing the inventive sneakers he designed for Adidas.
Speaking of shoes, Scott said he thinks about them "all the time."
"It can all hinge on footwear," he said. "I remember even as a kid, if I didn't like someone's shoes, I would think, that person is stupid, I don't like them!"