It all added up to a real show Wednesday night, with the models performing a little 1960s-style dance before they showed off their outfits. They wore colorful swinging minidresses, including sweaterdresses and jumpers, that were fully co-ordinated with coats and vests.
The concept blossomed after Sui caught a French New Wave film — and then many more French New Wave films — from an era that the designer has always felt a strong attachment. She also noted that the early '60s coincided with the revival of Chanel, and that a sort of chic ladylike dress — albeit a very young lady — was a prevailing theme.
She liked it even more that director Jean-Luc Godard used the same key players in many of his movies. "That's sort of how I work. I like to be surrounded by the people who I like and admire," Sui said in a pre-show interview.
Top models always turn out for Sui: Karlie Kloss, Jessica Stam and Hilary Rhoda, among them for this show.
But there was no parade of black, which has been one of the key trends to emerge from this round of designer previews. There were a few black pieces, such as a fuzzy Mongolian faux fur and black suede pants with grommets, but this was a celebration of colour.
Godard's early films were indeed black and white, but once he moved to colour, he never stopped, explained Sui. Her palette included hot pink, aqua blue, red, midnight blue and sapphire green. She also used a lot of print.
The high-neck shifts and cardigan coats are flirty, but safe territory for Sui's typically young customer.
After seven full days of runway shows, this one managed to feel different.