02/17/2013 12:34 EST | Updated 04/19/2013 05:12 EDT

Sophisticated punk is order of the day at Preen's London Fashion Week show

LONDON - Sophisticated and sleek with a little bit of punk: Preen's latest collection for autumn and winter hints at an edgy biker girl, but any rebelliousness is tamed by a minimalist esthetic and clean modern tailoring.

The label, by British design duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, opened day three of London Fashion Week on Sunday with long-line, mannish coats, leather and fur bikers jackets, and short dresses with open backs or plunging V-necks.

Everything was designed in a strict colour palette of black, red and white, though leopard prints (in those same colours) helped to break up the monotony. Biker zips were definitely a theme — they were everywhere, on jackets, on the front and back of the hips, and up the side of a leather skirt.

The runway took a more playful turn and brightened up a bit at the end of the collection, which featured multi-colored jewels encrusted onto high-collared blouses, sheer black vests and a black jumper in a pretty crisscross pattern.

Preen, which has shown successfully in New York for several years, returned to London Fashion Week last year.

The label was the first to show its latest womenswear on Sunday's busy schedule, which also included displays by Mulberry, Temperley London, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, L'Wren Scott and Jonathan Saunders.