02/20/2013 11:04 EST | Updated 04/22/2013 05:12 EDT

Mila Schoen offers flouncy, feminine looks for next winter as house turns to young designers

MILAN - Mila Schoen has turned to a new team of international designers to usher in a new era for the label.

The first collection, cold weather clothes for next year, previewed Wednesday on the first day of Milan Fashion Week. They had an ingénue appeal, with flouncy and feminine looks.

The design team created volumes with ruffles and blousy effects that projected an easy-to-sketch silhouette. Fur-and-wool coats had tiered ruffle necks. Sheer black spandex turtlenecks finished with a flourish with long, bell-shaped ruffles that start at the elbow. Ample skirts, short and long alike, promised sashay to any walk.

Miniskirts and short coats showed off leather boots that disappeared beneath the short hemlines. But hemlines on coats, skirts and pants also were left to trail.

The collection also included youthful styles, like jumpers, culottes and bodysuits.

Three colours dominated the collection: black, burned orange and brown. Richness was expressed through the juxtaposition of materials, for example, a skirt of fur in the front and wool in the back. For variation, the design team sewed wispy strands of silver on sweaters and other pieces for a feathery effect. More formal wear, including silken suits, featured red geometric patterns from the Mila Schoen archives.

The looks were accentuated by simple bowl-shaped helmets in leather or fur, worn atop straight, long hair.