02/21/2013 11:59 EST | Updated 04/23/2013 05:12 EDT

Fendi finds discreet ways of interpreting fur as fashion in Milan, wisps on skirts and bags

MILAN - Fendi is to fur what Ferrari is to cars. Yet given current concerns about animal rights, the brand has moved from the lavish fur coats that were all the rage in the 1980s to a more discreet way of interpreting fur as fashion.

At Just Cavalli, which showed right after Fendi on Thursday and also featured furs, an activist disrupted the show by jumping on the runway holding a sign that read "Your fashion is our death." She was forcibly dragged away as were several others in the audience who had held up similar signs.

At the latest Fendi winter collection presented Thursday during Milan Fashion Week, Silvia Venturini, the creative director and daughter of one of the company's five founding sisters, opted for wisps of fur used as hair decorations, bracelets, or charms hanging from Fendi bags.

Fur also appeared as inserts in a skirt or a dress, or sheered and fashioned into a cozy, but not showy, jacket. Long fur, usually goat, also seen on other runways during Milan's preview showings, was used to make up a skirt or a cape.

For decades, German born designer Karl Lagerfeld has been working with Fendi, adding his flamboyant designing talent to their creative genius.

This round he offered a constructed slim silhouette, with accentuated shoulders and a knee-length hemline. The look is sophisticated rather than sexy and used deep, dark shades of red and blue, which along with black are becoming the staple colours for next winter.

In the accessory department, Fendi chose to reinvent its iconic handbags, from the clutch bag — this time furry — to a modern version of the Mary Poppins bag.

The shoes are sure to be a winter hit. Whether a pump, a boot or a lace-up, each pair was elaborately decorated, some in fur, and comes with a pointed toe and a glistening mirrored high heel.