06/28/2013 11:08 EDT | Updated 08/28/2013 05:12 EDT

South Korea's Juun.J deconstructs uniform at Paris menswear show

PARIS - South Korean designer Juun.J picked up one of the recurring themes of the season — uniform — in a spring-summer 2014 show that was more restrained than normal for the menswear designer who likes to play with proportion.

Entitled "Ununiform," the idea of the Paris menswear show was to take American football attire and finely tailored suits and subvert them.

Sporty elements were thus given a luxurious finish, like a silky and lavish monochrome feel to numbers that featured on boxy tops. Elsewhere, a sharp jacket in blue or white would be twinned with sporty, high-waisted assorted shorts that finished at the top of the thigh.

Toward the end, surreal prints of ghostly faces on sweaters felt a little incongruous with the uniform theme.

By way of explanation, the program notes warn: "At this time Juun.J's world can be hard to define."

The fact that the 37 looks were more restrained than usual was perhaps intentional. It's a move away from the fashion fringe and coincides nicely with being bought up by Samsung, as his website notes, "to truly become global."


Thomas Adamson can be followed at