09/06/2013 09:48 EDT | Updated 11/06/2013 05:12 EST

Usual T-shirts and black elevated for spring at Helmut Lang in leather, snakeskin handbags

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Loose boyfriend trousers and slouchy, sleeveless tops came — surprise! — mostly in black and white on the Helmut Lang runway Friday during New York Fashion Week.

Design duo Nicole and Michael Colovos called the spring collection "an exercise in modern minimalism," which is familiar ground for the label. This time around, the clothes were both sharply tailored and deconstructed, inspired by the works of contemporary artist Wade Guyton, according to the designers' notes.

Wool and leather were bonded in jersey, while some trousers and oversized tops were left in leather alone.

Sheer overlays in modernist block patterns with a touch more colour lent energy to some dresses and other looks. Bright fuchsia was the pop of colour in chintzed silk organza dresses and skimpy shorts with tops in the same fabric.

A luxe tuxedo blazer in white with a touch of blush at the collar was paired with a jersey dress in an off-white "sand" colour, snakeskin-accented kitten heels and a matching snakeskin clutch, part of a new line of handbags in perforated leathers and textured skins.

Spring coats and jackets came in loose-fitting poplin and bonded leather in a delicate light grey dubbed "dew."


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