09/07/2013 08:47 EDT | Updated 11/07/2013 05:12 EST

Alexander Wang uses NY Fashion Week as brand-building opportunity

NEW YORK, N.Y. - As if fashion fans didn't already know his name and the youthful, hipster esthetic he owns at New York Fashion Week, Alexander Wang spelled it all out for them at his runway show Saturday.

Several of the models who zigzagged the complicated catwalk at the West Side pier that the designer often uses as his base wore looks adorned with "Wang."

The who's who of the industry was there to see it.

Wang, who now splits his time between his own label in New York and Balenciaga in Paris, first came out with uncharacteristic crisp and clean looks. Think of the cotton miniskirts and cropped button-downs that his downtown muse would wear if they were invited to the country club over a weekend.

There was a flirty skirt with a tailored white shirt, and a light slip-style sundress.

Eventually, though, those morphed into laser cut leather, which seems more of a fit for his customer.

Erin Wasson, a longtime friend of Wang's, walked in a white jumper — sans shirt — that hid the designer's name under each pleat. Of course it was visible with each step.

Less subtle were the logo-printed opera gloves and the logo-covered waistbands.

This is a man building a brand.

It's "Wang-xiety," said Courtney Love, who shared the front row with rapper Kanye West and actress Kerry Washington.