09/07/2013 09:15 EDT | Updated 11/07/2013 05:12 EST

Marissa Webb building a fashion week collection on strong underpinnings

NEW YORK, N.Y. - A new belle of the ball might have stepped off the Marissa Webb runway at New York Fashion Week.

Webb's collection is quickly becoming an insider's favourite, and even though it was shown in one of the smaller venues of the Lincoln Center tents, the audience was largely one that matters: top editors, stylists and retailers. One of the first outfits was a slim-cut, slightly sheer top and a blush-colored blouse with a men's style — but definitively feminine in silk — tie that was worn with a high-waist, bell-shape skirt.

It set the tone for a mostly chic collection full of interesting-yet-wearable pairings.

Webb, who used to design for J. Crew, turned a strapless tulle ballerina dress into something more urban and modern by using an army green colour, and the finale black crepe gown was harnessed in black leather suspenders.

There were subtle references to lingerie, but not your typical bustier top. The belted tunics and babydoll dresses had an ease and glamour to them rather than an overt sexiness. Let's call them the underpinnings of a label with potential.