09/12/2013 04:51 EDT | Updated 11/12/2013 05:12 EST

Pleats and prints add to Mohapatra's spring collection

NEW YORK, N.Y. - Bibhu Mohapatra, an up-and-coming designer with a front row of insiders, showed some chops at New York Fashion Week.

Elaborate eveningwear is what he's used so far as his calling card, but his runway at Lincoln Center on Wednesday was most notable for its chic daywear.

"Even in the daytime, you can mix in some fancy things. That's my DNA," Mohapatra said in a backstage interview. (Ironically he was in jeans and a T-shirt — with a blue blazer for good measure.)

Black trousers had an unexpected and flattering colored pleat down the leg, and the pleats of a bright yellow dance dress formed a geometric pattern.

Flowers bloomed in the pleats of his floral skirts as models made their way to the photographers.

Of course, there were gowns, too, including a coral-colored floral with a scarf halter top and tightly folded pleats.

"Yes, four different kinds of pleats. Some of them were hand done and took hours!"


Follow Samantha Critchell at and