09/16/2013 07:16 EDT | Updated 11/16/2013 05:12 EST

Roksanda Ilincic experiments with stronger shapes, vibrant neons at London Fashion Week

LONDON - Roksanda Ilincic's modern, feminine dresses have won her acclaim and commercial success, but for the new spring season she has given her style a bolder and more experimental spin.

There are still her signature calf-length, A-line skirts that emphasize a tiny waist, but Monday's show at London Fashion Week conveyed a much stronger woman overall. There were pleated skirts worn over skinny trousers, big padded jackets and skirts with stiff pleats.

"In terms of shapes I tried to experiment a little bit more with what is a modern dress, how that dress can be elevated to something quite different," the designer said after the show.

Colours were striking and "pumped up to maximum vibrancy," Ilincic said.

They definitely make a statement, from the sunshine yellow in the opening pieces to the graphic blocks of neon orange, green and purple later.

The show closed with dresses and jackets embellished with hard crystal flowers — luxurious for sure, but it's femininity with an edge.