09/25/2013 09:49 EDT | Updated 11/25/2013 05:12 EST

Damir Doma gets confident, breezy in feminine ready-to-wear show at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS - Croatian-born designer Damir Doma channeled a summer vibe Wednesday at Paris Fashion Week, producing an unusually delicate spring-summer 2014 collection.

The breezy white cotton looks felt like a welcome new direction from a man known for his monkish, dark and medieval styles.

The best detail of the show was the perforated holes — neatly embroidered — that punctuated dresses, gauze skirts and boxy tops. Instead of being punched into the black and white looks mechanically, they were distributed almost randomly, breaking up what might have been stark monochromes.

Doma's signature asymmetry was still in abundance with a series of truncated toga styles but they were delivered with a delicacy through the lightness of the cotton. Bright flashes of colour — like primrose yellow or orange — nicely softened the palette and were sometimes found on an asymmetric shoulder strap.

The inclusion of actual dresses in this womenswear show was another previously unheard-of feat from the designer.

"Before I would turn things into dresses, like an oversize T-shirt. But his time I actually constructed dresses," he said backstage.

Doma appeared very happy with new soft touch.

"It feels very light and easy and at peace, and this is how I feel myself," he said.


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