01/13/2014 10:32 EST | Updated 03/15/2014 05:59 EDT

Gucci's mod mariner cuts a boxy figure in knotty peacoat and 1960s slim trousers

He's a mod mariner, the Gucci man for next winter's storms.

This Gucci sailor cuts a boxy figure in the peacoat that anchors the collection. This version in a rich, knotty texture is achieved by working a traditional Tuscan fabric with neoprene.

The looks previewed Monday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week, have a definite 1960s vibe, with loose fitting short jackets and generous sweatshirts paired with slim fitting trousers, and worn with solidly soled shoes.

Creative director Frida Giannini's palate of dusty pastels creates a mood of a just-calmed storm and lends smoky contrast to the perfect black that permeates the collection.

Giannini fully exploits Gucci's roots as a leatherwear company with many leather pieces, from a dusty blue biker jacket accented with silver zippers to the dusty rose shirt layered over a turtleneck.

The collection finished with dark evening wear, including a tuxedo coat with leather lapels modeled by Fabien Alain Delon, the son of that 1960s icon, French film star Alain Delon.

Ready to set sail, the Gucci mariner tucks an oversized duffel or folded shopper with bamboo handles under his arm, dons his seafarer's cap, in cloth or leather with a smart leather braid around the crow, and sails off into the sunrise, not squinting behind his round Gucci sunglasses.