His colours were muted; black, eggplant, evergreen and silver. There were mixes of textures, with embroidered gowns and shiny slip dresses — some with tiny spaghetti straps — among the most successful pieces. Coats were big and boxy; it felt like you could disappear into them.
"I was going for something darkly romantic, something quite, you know, very cozy," Wu said backstage at the show Friday. "There is something very cozy about this outerwear."
Wu said he'd come up with the term "unflustered beauty" to describe his collection.
"I kind of woke up with those two words," said the designer, who became famous when Michelle Obama chose him for her inaugural gowns — twice. "Those are good words for the collection because underneath the really luxurious furs and cashmeres come slip dresses that are held together by spaghetti straps made from the most luxurious fabrics, that move around the body."
Like many designers this week, Wu was asked about the frigid weather. He said he'd been thinking about it a lot.
"Definitely," he said. "It's very cold and it's about taking those sporty elements, as always those American sportswear elements, gone luxe. You know, very North Face-inspired, in the parkas, the furs, and then (you) really elevate it. Elevated sportswear."
Wu also spoke about his busy career, now that he is creative director for Hugo Boss Womenswear as well as running his own label.
"It's definitely a great challenge for me, and I really enjoy it," he said. "I mean, that's my life, designing and fashion, and I love being in the creative process all the time."