02/22/2014 02:29 EST | Updated 04/24/2014 05:59 EDT

Jil Sander's new team of designers maintain link to minimalist style with soothing collection

MILAN - Since Jil Sander left her eponymous brand again last fall, the label has carried on with a team of anonymous designers.

Judging from next winter's womenswear looks previewed Saturday, the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week, the brand's minimalist DNA remains strong.

The mood was soothing, the palate permeated by the palest monochromes of grey, blue, sage, pink and peach -- with favourite black and emerald, a colour of the Milan season, projecting more strength.

The silhouette and lines of the dresses are deceptively simple, but then the eye catches folds in the fabric, and what emerges is the form of a cross or a starburst or a bias-cut wave. Skirts are high-waisted and gentle A-lines, worn with turtlenecks. Hemlines fall to the knee.

There were no eye-catching adornments, buttons or zippers, not even on overcoats, worn with collars raised, with closures that remained concealed from view. Shoes were chunky laceups or wedge boots in sturdier shades of yellow, green, brown and black.

The show notes said the team's goal was to restate "the fundamental codes of the Jil Sander label, reinforcing the emblems of the house." Mission accomplished.