We've seen it notably at Lanvin, Dries Van Noten — and now, here, at Kenzo's draped, voluminous and colorful fashion spectacle.
It takes a lot to drag fashionistas out early on a Sunday morning to a venue on the outskirts of the city.
But Kenzo rewarded those who did — feeding them tasty cookies and coffee — and treating them to an incredibly energetic presentation, in which gargantuan rectangular mirrored walls moved behind models in the warehouse venue.
The collection too continued this energy in its vivid splashes of kinetic graphic lines and flashes of contrasting, colored prints.
But fall-winter was all about the layering.
Geometric lines featured on bulging and layered A-line column dresses, topped off with funky asymmetrical poncho-hoods.
One billowing printed look, an oversize shirt with a top and layered skirt, featured a play on jarring prints — the skirt looking Eastern, the leopard print top, Western.
Kenzo is all about the cultural fusion.
The dark looks featured a nice play of camouflage print on a poncho and assorted jungle pants: if you looked closely you realized the pattern was of flowers.
It was tongue in cheek, and is bound to be a hit.
Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP